tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21044618676889336762024-02-07T00:34:36.208-08:00Life in LeblonVita a LeblonMonica, Maria, Giovannihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10405831812151522517noreply@blogger.comBlogger21125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2104461867688933676.post-92225233642709148132007-11-23T13:21:00.000-08:002007-11-24T05:29:29.133-08:00Thanksgiving in Rio<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi59tew8BHcugL4zXL7LIGRduiiL-fZFHj3hRmZySSh38aCAWR_6NjGgiZbORQKohdImxQaYS-dLSVRjiSUnxzqo65sYn6yfDdhqyAwHSVtB0az2KjTyia7RFZhNV4HvSIXncUC2IwbBjuo/s1600-h/coco.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi59tew8BHcugL4zXL7LIGRduiiL-fZFHj3hRmZySSh38aCAWR_6NjGgiZbORQKohdImxQaYS-dLSVRjiSUnxzqo65sYn6yfDdhqyAwHSVtB0az2KjTyia7RFZhNV4HvSIXncUC2IwbBjuo/s200/coco.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5136195014669696546" /></a><br /><br /><a href="#ITALIAN19"> <b>(in italiano)</b></a><br /><br />You might wonder what has happened to us. We are still in Rio, although counting backward the days we have left. It is full Spring here, meaning that time of the year in which the temperatures in Rio and in Michigan are exactly the same: 30's during the day, 20's during the night....the only difference is that one is in Celsius and the other in <a href="http://www.texloc.com/closet/cl_cel_fah_chart.html">Fahrenheit</a>! Going back to our "real" life of living around the clock behind a driving wheel will not be easy. Add the freezing temperatures of January in Michigan, and, excuse for the choice of words, it really SUCKS!!!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcdZYR3IY9tvuyEWvws03gYlSq3xrIhKsS0LERfvH3Am0Ks5gIyjWqHbaZYZhUpMYucRivdijNxuE9Qld4FAq48DBQ_SKut4iJRUYVFXtLeqBxSKRv93HRiUpG3PWxPm75G5xB0mQ8IyEu/s1600-h/blu_sky.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcdZYR3IY9tvuyEWvws03gYlSq3xrIhKsS0LERfvH3Am0Ks5gIyjWqHbaZYZhUpMYucRivdijNxuE9Qld4FAq48DBQ_SKut4iJRUYVFXtLeqBxSKRv93HRiUpG3PWxPm75G5xB0mQ8IyEu/s200/blu_sky.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5136198549427781170" /></a> But let's not think about these sad facts life and talk instead of how I (Monica) spent Thanksgiving day here in Rio. It was a gorgeous day, breezy and warm, with deep blue skies. In the morning I went to the Leblon <a href="http://lifeinleblon.blogspot.com/2007/07/thursdays-market.html">Farmer Market</a> which was in itself a real celebration of the bountiful production of fruits and veggies in this country. In the afternoon I could not resist the temptation of going to the beach and take a dip in the <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3UtwBymNhV0">rough waters</a> of Leblon. The <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5LCNN_ade88">view around me</a> was stunning, something for which I will always be grateful to whatever divinity is out there. On the way back home, under the shade of the tall trees lining the <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gN4t4l57Iec">streets of Leblon</a>, I was plain happy; I have always loved Thanksgiving for its celebration of coziness and friendship in a setting unspoiled by the obligation of giving greetings or exchanging presents. This one, in a sunny beach of Rio will stay with me for a long time.<br /><br />The evening meal is also worth a mention: a piece of ostrich meat (talking of whom brought to the table the biggest bird on Thanksgiving day!) and a piece of "abobora" (pumpkin) from the market.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsq29E7w35TykNcmPc1A1rjkRpAziiU0GCTqCkLjhqVZ5nk8GPUF32zr1jBZ5ivfbfCA4Wxdrykek8inr_S5E3NPrbyOr10ff-2i5RxvWDRVx8QZOB0BcXohkdwYgAIugAEc54QsRe_SyZ/s1600-h/ombrelloni.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsq29E7w35TykNcmPc1A1rjkRpAziiU0GCTqCkLjhqVZ5nk8GPUF32zr1jBZ5ivfbfCA4Wxdrykek8inr_S5E3NPrbyOr10ff-2i5RxvWDRVx8QZOB0BcXohkdwYgAIugAEc54QsRe_SyZ/s200/ombrelloni.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5136201474300509762" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><a name="ITALIAN19"></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi59tew8BHcugL4zXL7LIGRduiiL-fZFHj3hRmZySSh38aCAWR_6NjGgiZbORQKohdImxQaYS-dLSVRjiSUnxzqo65sYn6yfDdhqyAwHSVtB0az2KjTyia7RFZhNV4HvSIXncUC2IwbBjuo/s1600-h/coco.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi59tew8BHcugL4zXL7LIGRduiiL-fZFHj3hRmZySSh38aCAWR_6NjGgiZbORQKohdImxQaYS-dLSVRjiSUnxzqo65sYn6yfDdhqyAwHSVtB0az2KjTyia7RFZhNV4HvSIXncUC2IwbBjuo/s200/coco.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5136195014669696546" /></a><br /><br />Vi state chiedendo cosa ci e' successo? Beh, siamo ancora a Rio ma abbiamo cominciato a contare i giorni che mancano per la nostra partenza. Qui ora e' piena primavera, vale a dire il periodo dell'anno in cui le temperature di Rio e del Michigan coincidono: sui 30 gradi di giorno e 20 gradi di notte....la sola differenza e' che gli uni sono in Celsius e gli altri in <a href="http://www.texloc.com/closet/cl_cel_fah_chart.html">Fahrenheit</a>! Tornare alla nostra vita "antica", con i minuti sempre contati e costantemente seduti dietro al volante non sara' facile. Se poi ci aggiungi le temperature polari di Gennaio in Michigan, e', scusate la parola, proprio uno SCHIFO!!!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcdZYR3IY9tvuyEWvws03gYlSq3xrIhKsS0LERfvH3Am0Ks5gIyjWqHbaZYZhUpMYucRivdijNxuE9Qld4FAq48DBQ_SKut4iJRUYVFXtLeqBxSKRv93HRiUpG3PWxPm75G5xB0mQ8IyEu/s1600-h/blu_sky.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcdZYR3IY9tvuyEWvws03gYlSq3xrIhKsS0LERfvH3Am0Ks5gIyjWqHbaZYZhUpMYucRivdijNxuE9Qld4FAq48DBQ_SKut4iJRUYVFXtLeqBxSKRv93HRiUpG3PWxPm75G5xB0mQ8IyEu/s200/blu_sky.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5136198549427781170" /></a> Ma non ci dilunghiamo su pensieri troppo tristi e parliamo invece su come io (Monica) ho speso il giorno del Ringraziamento, anche noto come il giorno del tacchino, qui in Rio. Era una giornata meravigliosa, calda e ventilata, con cieli di un blu profondo. Alla mattina ero stata al <a href="http://lifeinleblon.blogspot.com/2007/07/thursdays-market.html">mercato all'aperto</a> di Leblon, in se' una celebrazione della copiosa produzione di frutta e verdura del Brasile. Nel pomerriggio, non seppi resistere alla tentazione di andare alla spiaggia e fare un bagno nelle <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3UtwBymNhV0">acque sempre agitate</a> di Leblon. La <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5LCNN_ade88">vista attorno a me</a> era da mozzafiato, un qualcosa per cui saro' sempre grata a chiunque divinita' ci sia li' fuori. Sulla via del ritorno a casa, all'ombra degli alberi alti che bordano le <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gN4t4l57Iec">vie di Leblon</a>, ero proprio felice; ho sempre amato la festa del Ringraziamento perche' celebra lo stare bene con gli altri senza l'obbligo di scambiare auguri o regali. Il giorno del Ringraziamento di questo anno, in una spiaggia assolata di Rio, restera' con me per molto tempo. <br /><br />La cena serale e' pure degna di menzione: un pezzo di struzzo (probabilemte vincendo la gara di chi porta l'uccello piu' grande in tavola nel giorno del Ringraziamento!) e un pezzo di "abobora" (zucca marina) presa al mercato.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsq29E7w35TykNcmPc1A1rjkRpAziiU0GCTqCkLjhqVZ5nk8GPUF32zr1jBZ5ivfbfCA4Wxdrykek8inr_S5E3NPrbyOr10ff-2i5RxvWDRVx8QZOB0BcXohkdwYgAIugAEc54QsRe_SyZ/s1600-h/ombrelloni.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsq29E7w35TykNcmPc1A1rjkRpAziiU0GCTqCkLjhqVZ5nk8GPUF32zr1jBZ5ivfbfCA4Wxdrykek8inr_S5E3NPrbyOr10ff-2i5RxvWDRVx8QZOB0BcXohkdwYgAIugAEc54QsRe_SyZ/s200/ombrelloni.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5136201474300509762" /></a>Monica, Maria, Giovannihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10405831812151522517noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2104461867688933676.post-12255031178024377722007-09-18T14:11:00.000-07:002007-09-18T14:04:20.625-07:00Well, here it is (Ecco qua il blog)We still have several posts in the pipeline, including the beatiful Jardim Botanico, some walks around the Lagoa, and more. But, things have changed, this is home now, and the idea of a travel blog does not fit anymore. Make sure you click on the links provided, which are often Youtube videos (when there in Youtube, click on the page owner name to see Maria's violin videos). So sorry the posts are in the wrong time order, but this blogging software is not so smart.<br /><br />Abbiamo alcuni posts in progetto, tra cui il bellissimo Jardim Botanico, e varie camminate intorno alla Lagoa, pero' oramai siamo di casa qui e non e' piu' la stessa cosa. Assicuratevi di cliccare qui links provvisti, sono spesso links a Youtube, dove Monica ha messo i films dei nostri viaggi. Spiacente che i posts siano nell' ordine temporale sbagliato, questo software non e' molto intelligente.Monica, Maria, Giovannihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10405831812151522517noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2104461867688933676.post-39829995039002400212007-09-12T17:21:00.000-07:002007-09-15T13:20:04.675-07:00Paraty, a dive into Brazilian colonial history<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVG7u6pXpw7qMki2S_q77TGOTV-BRrcxILpAk2oz8Dfa0cUTtt0lstnKqJKjRbvIMUmtAAp-607d2-eiUL1idac0ae9TGcRIrmWkApHP8f1wpezjUhyphenhyphenP-sUBXMn5o1mMwj9Xlm86gsTfEa/s1600-h/chiesa.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVG7u6pXpw7qMki2S_q77TGOTV-BRrcxILpAk2oz8Dfa0cUTtt0lstnKqJKjRbvIMUmtAAp-607d2-eiUL1idac0ae9TGcRIrmWkApHP8f1wpezjUhyphenhyphenP-sUBXMn5o1mMwj9Xlm86gsTfEa/s320/chiesa.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5110510114385762146" /></a><br /><br /><a href="#ITALIAN18"> <b>(in italiano)</b></a><br /><br /> With Maria and our friend Mary we went to Paraty for 3 days. Paraty, which in "tupi" (the language of the Guaiana', the original inhabitants of this part of Brazil) indicates the fresh water fish that still hatches in the waters of the bay where the city is located, is a beautiful city in the south end of the stunning Bay of Angra dos Reis. The almost five hours drive from Rio is a sequence of postcard views of the <a href="http://www.angra-dos-reis.com/ingles/index.htm">Angra dos Reis bay</a>, famous for its 365 islands (one per day of the year) and 2000 beaches, for the most part inhabitated and reachable only from the sea. That if you can keep your eyes open and not fixed in front of you in order to minimize the car sickness that the winding road is bound to give to you!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8CKStm31Ar3EF2h5SG_bpFvCI0ODPK58v-asU6Kmg1_Hed54x6b1GxDbOceQYON3kCbz7I_fDUehCEy5WofwCV2Wq4CaIoJHf5paDtnOyCzzuPMNjzBNh0t6dnxaucuHAL0j9hIpVvAEG/s1600-h/case.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8CKStm31Ar3EF2h5SG_bpFvCI0ODPK58v-asU6Kmg1_Hed54x6b1GxDbOceQYON3kCbz7I_fDUehCEy5WofwCV2Wq4CaIoJHf5paDtnOyCzzuPMNjzBNh0t6dnxaucuHAL0j9hIpVvAEG/s200/case.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5110511377106147186" /></a> The city, already a Brazilian National Historical site since 1966, and striving to achieve the status of World Heritage Site, was founded in 1640 but saw its golden period in the 1700's due to its strategic position at the end of the "<a href="http://www.paraty.com.br/caminho.asp">Caminho de Ouro</a>", the "Gold Path". This is the way that connected the gold mines of Minas Gerais to the sea and supported all of the commerce of the exploding population in the interior of Brazil during the Gold Rush. After the gold vanished, the path supported the exchange of goods and, above all, African slaves, needed for the sugar-cane plantations, which reveled itself a much more reliable font of income for the new colony than the ephemeral gold wealth. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWErW2U72ykrXsnvephmqM04l1ovT3Y7qFlISgrjbd0nzHQW21Kk2ccSoDSALQ5bc8UDYYyr_8SzlRPz_Pabf8odQ4ejuMDIcpgxIrSjmCRD2bbDb1b7vu8Rfe_kkEYG4xfErX9URVF3Tb/s1600-h/amache.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWErW2U72ykrXsnvephmqM04l1ovT3Y7qFlISgrjbd0nzHQW21Kk2ccSoDSALQ5bc8UDYYyr_8SzlRPz_Pabf8odQ4ejuMDIcpgxIrSjmCRD2bbDb1b7vu8Rfe_kkEYG4xfErX9URVF3Tb/s200/amache.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5110511596149479298" /></a> The historical center, with its grid of streets in a fan-like shape still paved with large rectangular stones and the low white buildings with one colorful door after the other, is a remarkably well preserved example of Portuguese colonial architecture. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIj3GzX7Zi-D1br1_2VpPWbpjvGKJfF355tTN_drVPBXFRpyXdjymaozQC1WCKHgEkwNRgycYkNTLBMKaeaghgBhG1JyF0n0qa233v2pPVUnlKHDtqSVObTGQShZoD6r-j3djsHXagDptU/s1600-h/calciato.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIj3GzX7Zi-D1br1_2VpPWbpjvGKJfF355tTN_drVPBXFRpyXdjymaozQC1WCKHgEkwNRgycYkNTLBMKaeaghgBhG1JyF0n0qa233v2pPVUnlKHDtqSVObTGQShZoD6r-j3djsHXagDptU/s200/calciato.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5110513997036197842" /></a> The main reason for its still intact state is that only during the 70's new modern roads were opened to connect the city to Rio and San Paulo, after the old "Caminho de Ouro" had been mostly abandoned and reclaimed by the forest. A nice little museum in the historical center remembers the history of the city and the "Caminho de Ouro" with reconstructions of different stages of the Brazilian colonial history. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoBEAWrOfRUvAIs6wwwcgWiOVjSkw7y7OHmjKNNlXgA7TS-gVutQuWUzIMjFRuvHnITTCXre24uoE8WX67Ht25hzxRGpIMWsEkUG_lyKexu1EYeTT2Vsj2kZ7I42bKosfGGuNZNMyDDxXQ/s1600-h/solar.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoBEAWrOfRUvAIs6wwwcgWiOVjSkw7y7OHmjKNNlXgA7TS-gVutQuWUzIMjFRuvHnITTCXre24uoE8WX67Ht25hzxRGpIMWsEkUG_lyKexu1EYeTT2Vsj2kZ7I42bKosfGGuNZNMyDDxXQ/s200/solar.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5110511798012942226" /></a> We stayed in the Posada "<a href="http://www.paraty.com.br/geranio/">Solar dos Geranios</a>", in the central Praca Matriz. The Posada, owned by a Suisse-Hungarian emigree' and run by her two daughters, is a run-down but full-of-charm B&B. Its claim to fame is for being the set of "<a href="http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0085575/">Gabriela, Cravo e Canela (1983)</a>", a movie with Marcello Mastroianni, the handsome Italian actor. All of the ladies there still remembered him as a very serious actor, always ready to sign autographs but only during breaks from shooting. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiifh5gPD_EXgN4-7YHoGX_VwmzGyy8VuCmMO23jQ87inQzPeWdIdT3W6FRmJetptliMlUoSrdIdUXLTEDj93QVFVyoXWjW8OsWr1ziZZAB_h3FnvJxIE7DImeXL_peHh-BB_HxmHpOFw59/s1600-h/trindidade.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiifh5gPD_EXgN4-7YHoGX_VwmzGyy8VuCmMO23jQ87inQzPeWdIdT3W6FRmJetptliMlUoSrdIdUXLTEDj93QVFVyoXWjW8OsWr1ziZZAB_h3FnvJxIE7DImeXL_peHh-BB_HxmHpOFw59/s200/trindidade.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5110512510977513378" /></a> We took two half-day trips from there; a boat trip to islands and beaches around Paraty, very similar to what we did in <a href="http://lifeinleblon.blogspot.com/2007_07_16_archive.html">Ilha Grande</a>, and a trip to the beautiful beach of Trindade. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp4Znmw1hXR59Xg0CptRRILJ7wGjkZfEc6bZ4ufmCtG7REhYT1hP7geVc_OuifKNq4V-KhWPrJarISkM04CuSfXQnl68wCQkZbWsZHqpx2Bv5m3vpt7UlcDoKsi08Tu5XKJ5Bva6zumq47/s1600-h/maria_paraty.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp4Znmw1hXR59Xg0CptRRILJ7wGjkZfEc6bZ4ufmCtG7REhYT1hP7geVc_OuifKNq4V-KhWPrJarISkM04CuSfXQnl68wCQkZbWsZHqpx2Bv5m3vpt7UlcDoKsi08Tu5XKJ5Bva6zumq47/s320/maria_paraty.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5110513627669010370" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><a name="ITALIAN18"></a><br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Paraty, un tuffo nella storia coloniale del Brasile.</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVG7u6pXpw7qMki2S_q77TGOTV-BRrcxILpAk2oz8Dfa0cUTtt0lstnKqJKjRbvIMUmtAAp-607d2-eiUL1idac0ae9TGcRIrmWkApHP8f1wpezjUhyphenhyphenP-sUBXMn5o1mMwj9Xlm86gsTfEa/s1600-h/chiesa.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVG7u6pXpw7qMki2S_q77TGOTV-BRrcxILpAk2oz8Dfa0cUTtt0lstnKqJKjRbvIMUmtAAp-607d2-eiUL1idac0ae9TGcRIrmWkApHP8f1wpezjUhyphenhyphenP-sUBXMn5o1mMwj9Xlm86gsTfEa/s320/chiesa.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5110510114385762146" /></a><br /><br /><br /> Con Maria e la nostra amica Mary siamo andati a Paraty per 3 giorno. Paraty, che in lingua "tupi" (la lingua degli indios Guaiana' che originariamente abitavano questa parte del Brasile) indica il nome del pesce di acqua dolce che viene a deporre le uova nella baia di fronte alla citta', si trova nella parte sud-ovest della bellissima baia di Angra dos Reis. Le cinque ore di viaggio necessarie per raggiungere Paraty da Rio sono una sequenza interminabile di vedute da cartolina della baia di <a href="http://www.angra-dos-reis.com/ingles/index.htm">Angra dos Reis</a>, famosa per avere 365 isole and 2000 spiagge, la maggior parte disabitate e raggiungibile solo dal mare. Naturalmente se uno non deve tenere gli occhi chiusi o fissi di fronte a se' per combattere il mal di macchina provocato dalle innumerevoli curve della strada!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8CKStm31Ar3EF2h5SG_bpFvCI0ODPK58v-asU6Kmg1_Hed54x6b1GxDbOceQYON3kCbz7I_fDUehCEy5WofwCV2Wq4CaIoJHf5paDtnOyCzzuPMNjzBNh0t6dnxaucuHAL0j9hIpVvAEG/s1600-h/case.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8CKStm31Ar3EF2h5SG_bpFvCI0ODPK58v-asU6Kmg1_Hed54x6b1GxDbOceQYON3kCbz7I_fDUehCEy5WofwCV2Wq4CaIoJHf5paDtnOyCzzuPMNjzBNh0t6dnxaucuHAL0j9hIpVvAEG/s200/case.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5110511377106147186" /></a> La citta', gia' sito storico brasiliano dal 1966 e in gara per diventare citta' di Patrimonio Mondiale dell'Umanita', fu fondata nel 1640 ma raggiunse il suo apice nel 1700 grazie alla sua posizione strategica alla fine del "<a href="http://www.paraty.com.br/caminho.asp">Caminho de Ouro</a>", letteralmente la Strada dell'Oro. Questa era la strade che univa il mare alle miniere d'oro di Minas Gerais e permetteva il passaggio di tutte le merci che supportarono la prima esplosione di popolazione all'interiore del Brasile. Dopo che l'oro fini', la strada permise il trasporto di mezzi e schiavi africani diretti alle piantagioni di canna da zucchero, il cui commercio si rivelo' molto piu' proficuo e duraturo per i primi coloni portoghesi che non l'effimera scoperta dell'oro.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWErW2U72ykrXsnvephmqM04l1ovT3Y7qFlISgrjbd0nzHQW21Kk2ccSoDSALQ5bc8UDYYyr_8SzlRPz_Pabf8odQ4ejuMDIcpgxIrSjmCRD2bbDb1b7vu8Rfe_kkEYG4xfErX9URVF3Tb/s1600-h/amache.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWErW2U72ykrXsnvephmqM04l1ovT3Y7qFlISgrjbd0nzHQW21Kk2ccSoDSALQ5bc8UDYYyr_8SzlRPz_Pabf8odQ4ejuMDIcpgxIrSjmCRD2bbDb1b7vu8Rfe_kkEYG4xfErX9URVF3Tb/s200/amache.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5110511596149479298" /></a> Il centro storico di Paraty, con una pianta a ventaglio di strade ancora lastricati con le grosse pietre rettangolari originali e le case basse con file di porte colorate, e' un esempio di architettura coloniale portoghese estremamente ben conservato. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIj3GzX7Zi-D1br1_2VpPWbpjvGKJfF355tTN_drVPBXFRpyXdjymaozQC1WCKHgEkwNRgycYkNTLBMKaeaghgBhG1JyF0n0qa233v2pPVUnlKHDtqSVObTGQShZoD6r-j3djsHXagDptU/s1600-h/calciato.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIj3GzX7Zi-D1br1_2VpPWbpjvGKJfF355tTN_drVPBXFRpyXdjymaozQC1WCKHgEkwNRgycYkNTLBMKaeaghgBhG1JyF0n0qa233v2pPVUnlKHDtqSVObTGQShZoD6r-j3djsHXagDptU/s200/calciato.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5110513997036197842" /></a> E il motivo per cui e' cosi' ben conservato e' che solo negli anni 70 furono aperte strade moderne per connettere Paraty a Rio e San Paolo, dopo che l'antico "Caminho de Ouro" era caduto in disuso ed era stato riguadagnato dalla foresta. Un piccolo museo nel centro storico commemora la storia della citta' per ricostruzioni delle varia epoche delle colonizzazione portoghese della zona.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoBEAWrOfRUvAIs6wwwcgWiOVjSkw7y7OHmjKNNlXgA7TS-gVutQuWUzIMjFRuvHnITTCXre24uoE8WX67Ht25hzxRGpIMWsEkUG_lyKexu1EYeTT2Vsj2kZ7I42bKosfGGuNZNMyDDxXQ/s1600-h/solar.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoBEAWrOfRUvAIs6wwwcgWiOVjSkw7y7OHmjKNNlXgA7TS-gVutQuWUzIMjFRuvHnITTCXre24uoE8WX67Ht25hzxRGpIMWsEkUG_lyKexu1EYeTT2Vsj2kZ7I42bKosfGGuNZNMyDDxXQ/s200/solar.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5110511798012942226" /></a> Siamo state alla Posada "Solar dos Geranios" nella central piazza Matriz. L'hotel, che appartiene ad una vecchia signora di origine svizzera-ungarica ma e' attualmente in mano alle due figlie, e' un posto un po' malandato ma con moltissimo charme! E' famoso per essre stato il set di "<a href="http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0085575/">Gabriela, Cravo e Canela (1983)</a>", un film degli anni 80 con Marcello Mastroianni. Le signore di ricordano ancora di Marcello come un signore molto gentile, sempre pronto a scrivere autografi durante le pause del film.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiifh5gPD_EXgN4-7YHoGX_VwmzGyy8VuCmMO23jQ87inQzPeWdIdT3W6FRmJetptliMlUoSrdIdUXLTEDj93QVFVyoXWjW8OsWr1ziZZAB_h3FnvJxIE7DImeXL_peHh-BB_HxmHpOFw59/s1600-h/trindidade.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiifh5gPD_EXgN4-7YHoGX_VwmzGyy8VuCmMO23jQ87inQzPeWdIdT3W6FRmJetptliMlUoSrdIdUXLTEDj93QVFVyoXWjW8OsWr1ziZZAB_h3FnvJxIE7DImeXL_peHh-BB_HxmHpOFw59/s200/trindidade.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5110512510977513378" /></a> Da paraty abbiamo fatti due giri di mezza giornata: il primo un giro in barca nelle isole e spiaggia vicine alla citta', molto simile al giro che abbiamo fatto <a href="http://lifeinleblon.blogspot.com/2007_07_16_archive.html">Ilha Grande</a>; il secondo una visita alla bellissima spiaggia di Trindidade.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp4Znmw1hXR59Xg0CptRRILJ7wGjkZfEc6bZ4ufmCtG7REhYT1hP7geVc_OuifKNq4V-KhWPrJarISkM04CuSfXQnl68wCQkZbWsZHqpx2Bv5m3vpt7UlcDoKsi08Tu5XKJ5Bva6zumq47/s1600-h/maria_paraty.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp4Znmw1hXR59Xg0CptRRILJ7wGjkZfEc6bZ4ufmCtG7REhYT1hP7geVc_OuifKNq4V-KhWPrJarISkM04CuSfXQnl68wCQkZbWsZHqpx2Bv5m3vpt7UlcDoKsi08Tu5XKJ5Bva6zumq47/s320/maria_paraty.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5110513627669010370" /></a>Monica, Maria, Giovannihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10405831812151522517noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2104461867688933676.post-65323904739942392752007-09-05T19:16:00.000-07:002007-09-15T13:18:29.439-07:00Tuesday night football<a href="#ITALIAN17"> <b>(in italiano)</b></a><br /><br />I play on tuesday nights near the Jardim Botanico, Rua Abreu Fialho. Interesting place and interesting group, truth be told, I do not enjoy playing with strangers. I bike there on sidewalks at night, always a great ride through three distinct neighborhoods. The neighborhood in the back of the Jardim is a favorite of mine at night.<br /><br />The ringleader is Filipe. He is 58 and has played in that spot for 43 years without interruption. He exercises every day but currently his neck is holding him out of action, since football is not a zero impact sport. Even though he does not play, he is there every tuesday to bring the pennies. Other oldies are Solana, Jair, Zazinha and myself, though I am the youngest of the bunch. Solana, who must be about 57 and plays twice a week, has invited me to go play near Petropolis with his buddies and then have a churrasco, but now he is injuried and away. There are a few irregular 40-somethings, a couple 30-something, the rest is 20-something. Of the oldies I am the one who has not yet lost playing time to injury, though flu-like symptoms and then my colloquium kept me out of action a few times. Very similar to my home town of Granarolo, where advancing age and tuesday night football combine for numerous injuries.<br /><br />The 20-something are also quite good, stepping over the ball with ease and being quite good at creating in small spaces. I never was remotely close to being that good, though I am still as quick as most of them. The oldies play disciplined (relatively speaking) defensive football, leaving it to the boys to run the offenses. We never score, even though games end 9-7. One difference with football in Granarolo is the presence of excellent goalies, far better than anything I have seen in Italy.<br /><br />The history of the place has also similarities with the 25 years history of calcetto in Granarolo. When Felipe started playing here in 1964, the place was a sandlot and to kick a corner you'd have to step into the street (not a real problem, Abreu Fialho is devoid of traffic). Over the years they added a wall on the street side, goals, netting on the five sides, six reflector lights, and finally a synthetic surface a few years back. It is an excellent court for indoor football (futbol de sala) but is outdoors. Most of the time there are too many people and we play up to 8 on 8 on a court that would be best played 5 on 5.<br /><br />The field is surrounded by buildings, and you have to go through a narrow passageway and through a bar in an inner court to get to our court. Two older, smaller courtyards have also been turned into smaller football courts, but they are really too small. It is the big court that everyone wants to play in.<br /><br /><br /><a name="ITALIAN17"></a><br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Il calcetto del martedi' sera.</span><br /><br /><br />Gioco a pallone il martedi' sera vicino al Giardino Botanico, Rua Abreu Fialho. Posto e gente interessanti, e' da un pezzo che non mi piace giocare con gente che non conosco. Vado la' in bici a notte, solo su marciapiedi, un bel giro attraverso tre quartieri distinti. Il quartiere dietro al Giardino e' il mio favorito.<br /><br />L' organizzatore e' Filipe. Ha 58 anni e ha giocato continuamente in quel posto per 43 anni. Si esercita ogni giorno ma attualmente il suo collo e' infortunato e non gioca. Anche se non gioca, e' li' ogni martedi' a portare le casacche. Altri brizzolati sono Solana, Jair, Zazinha, e io, anche se io sono probabilmente il piu' giovane dei regolari attempati. Solana, che ha probabilmente 57 anni e gioca due volte la settimana, mi ha invitato a andare a giocare a Petropolis con i suoi amici, e poi c'e' un churrasco, ma ora pure lui e' infortunato e non so se si fara'. Ci sono un paio di irregolari 40enni, un paio di 30enni, e il resto e' gente di 20-30 anni. Dei brizzolati sono l' unico che non ha perso partite a causa di infortuni, anche se ne ho saltate alcune a causa di influenza e del colloquio all' Universita' la settimana scorsa. Simile a Granarolo, dove la combinazione di calcetto del martedi' sera e l' eta' avanzata continua creare infortuni.<br /><br />I 20enni sono anche buoni, passi doppi e eccellenti a creare in spazi ristretti. Io non sono mai stato nemmeno lontanamente cosi', tecnicamente parlando, anche se sono ancora abbastanza veloce da stargli dietro. I brizzolati giocano in difesa, e non segnano mai. Anche se le partite finiscono 9-7, noi non segniamo mai. Una differenza con Granarolo e' la presenza di portieri eccellenti, molto meglio di quelli che ho visto in Italia.<br /><br />La storie del posto ha pure similarita' con i 25 anni continui di calcetto a Granarolo. Quando Filipe ha cominciato a giocare li' nel 1964, il posto era uno spiazzo sabbioso e per tirare un corner dovevi andare in strada. Anno dopo anno hanno aggiunto un muro dalla parte strada, porte, reti di protezione sopra e intorno, sei riflettori, e finalmente una superficie sintetica qualche anno fa. E' un campo eccellente per calcetto. Spesso ci sono troppi giocatori e giochiamo 8 contro 8, anche se 5 contro 5 sarebbe ideale. <br /><br />Il campo e' circondato da edifici (bassi e vecchi), e per arrivarci uno deve passare attraverso un corridoio e attraverso un bar in un cortile interno. Altri due vecchi cortili sono stati trasformati in campetti, ma sono un po' piccoli. E' il campo grande dove tutti vogliono giocare.Monica, Maria, Giovannihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10405831812151522517noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2104461867688933676.post-67096040635004816022007-09-04T14:28:00.000-07:002007-09-15T18:48:08.317-07:00Arpoador<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9OZ2jq9U0HQAwYMofwwVTtZDnTdWTx06IY-mfnS5v62fQW1t72qCRxzvVG-XlbQ6uz_Fe1ZoJ6Uv-thY4nUwph5hinNhIBhVY-R4jJ1WNoJofTvyGH_2l3EP7u6e0o7Yt5ip-ZXc4Ma7A/s1600-h/bagnanti.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9OZ2jq9U0HQAwYMofwwVTtZDnTdWTx06IY-mfnS5v62fQW1t72qCRxzvVG-XlbQ6uz_Fe1ZoJ6Uv-thY4nUwph5hinNhIBhVY-R4jJ1WNoJofTvyGH_2l3EP7u6e0o7Yt5ip-ZXc4Ma7A/s320/bagnanti.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5110531550567536626" /></a><br /><br /><br /><a href="#ITALIAN16"> <b>(in italiano)</b></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt-kl1Alz7NtyDhAnaMT5PtMfR0v2B4ItGERDY-yYZhFwUX33NdGcpNifEXNFoIYNK8tMx0D8SkXNXsuprfKVfNQt2Ww1Ai7GSIB9uAjwepYa-AvoPuVo4SJpl1pLMoGO3huXBs5tSB73H/s1600-h/sand_bar.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt-kl1Alz7NtyDhAnaMT5PtMfR0v2B4ItGERDY-yYZhFwUX33NdGcpNifEXNFoIYNK8tMx0D8SkXNXsuprfKVfNQt2Ww1Ai7GSIB9uAjwepYa-AvoPuVo4SJpl1pLMoGO3huXBs5tSB73H/s200/sand_bar.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5110531808265574402" /></a> It has been a few weeks since we walked to Arpoador, but we took enough pictures that the walk is worth a post. The storm of several weeks back has created numerous sandbars along the shore, and for the first time since we have been here, Brazilians are going into the water in numbers. A sand bar may be about 10 meters from shore, and to get there you have to go through water that may be 60-150 cm deep. On the sand bar, water will be quite low, perhaps only 10 cm, waves will topple, hit one another, and create mesmerizing water jets running across the wave.The current sand bars tend to be at a shallow angle with respect to the beach, and in the deep channel a current will flow parallel to shore. It can be quite strong. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWOOUopDczeEhr2w9972Wml0NsmLI_BXokD0dHh3CnaSOi97QQBmo2SYLC40u_3jHzLd9_kEtclynoZ5l8lKTdNiXriU812RnonRK9xBQiC7wMus7kPIUXRNrIzrrvjpAmHQISDaIHWW3N/s1600-h/dois_irmaos.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWOOUopDczeEhr2w9972Wml0NsmLI_BXokD0dHh3CnaSOi97QQBmo2SYLC40u_3jHzLd9_kEtclynoZ5l8lKTdNiXriU812RnonRK9xBQiC7wMus7kPIUXRNrIzrrvjpAmHQISDaIHWW3N/s200/dois_irmaos.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5110532443920734242" /></a> But, on the Saturday we went to Arpoador, the Brazilians were at the beach in droves and in the water in numbers despite big waves and red flags all over. We walked there along the beach, across Ipanema. Arpoador is a rocky formation jutting out into the sea, and divides Ipanema from Copacabana. I pass by it every day on the way to work but I have never ventured onto the promontory. The promontory is actually two of them, separated by a small, incredibly secluded beach. On Arpoador there were numerous visitors admiring the waves crashing onto the rocks, the line fishermen that sometimes fish also from the beach on either side of Arpoador, and also from other rocky points such as the other end of Leblon, under the Dois Irmaos (see video <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b4hHQD7IaDk">here</a>). <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-5xhN9UCYphOaoaOygUppZ8k_-u7dK-x844HAGxOzrWGtqnEtvO-4F8xOuMABfzBLUB6CaAu4rD0uEBkZohHYB9WX5MTgYEDsIafxEfqTgtPq2K753vO7KjVXmqLlFIlYB4xITgvigDhD/s1600-h/copa_side.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-5xhN9UCYphOaoaOygUppZ8k_-u7dK-x844HAGxOzrWGtqnEtvO-4F8xOuMABfzBLUB6CaAu4rD0uEBkZohHYB9WX5MTgYEDsIafxEfqTgtPq2K753vO7KjVXmqLlFIlYB4xITgvigDhD/s200/copa_side.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5110532641489229874" /></a> They look for pelagic species that come close to shore, we are told, but we have never seen a line fisherman catching anything. Our friend Stefanella says that there is a cave under Arpoador, where a drug dealer lives. Surely the waves evicted him that day. From Arpoador, there is a great view of the outer islands.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhNSuP_hO9d-OpW6WWf874dhKKnLLUXjCtkKM16p9sLzl1D2ddAr7Ap0fq_A3ziccTz91JijrnjJGXEFwmf4PdFImmanxjAHmU83TYu58C1BV7ph5C4uPRJm6l2lz9IfFfSU10oSjT-3hv/s1600-h/beach.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhNSuP_hO9d-OpW6WWf874dhKKnLLUXjCtkKM16p9sLzl1D2ddAr7Ap0fq_A3ziccTz91JijrnjJGXEFwmf4PdFImmanxjAHmU83TYu58C1BV7ph5C4uPRJm6l2lz9IfFfSU10oSjT-3hv/s200/beach.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5110531125365774306" /></a> On the small secluded beach, the apparent local custom is that dogs are on a par with humans, off the leash and off to the races. Naturally, there are all sorts of masters treating their dogs to true beach life, swarm of dogs running after one another, and the swimming breeds venturing into the waves after sticks and disappearing under foam. the other thing that masters do for their friends here is buy them a coconut. The sellers expertly cut the nut with their machete in two, shave it under to give it stability, and put it in front of the happy dog. We have yet to see a dog that does not love coconuts. We had our own coconut before walking back to the apartment.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZktQ1tIGbnYNOwW-h4vjW7txmNMeQdUBtxtX9uGwVqNyRg1y04Xcuzhr29G-HwQItnFfaahnSXDo41KXldBIvUySFnixEkyijoOGEBOnEB2qAzfANlURC1ctApPL0D6W2mc8joftkNYc-/s1600-h/sleeping_beauty.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZktQ1tIGbnYNOwW-h4vjW7txmNMeQdUBtxtX9uGwVqNyRg1y04Xcuzhr29G-HwQItnFfaahnSXDo41KXldBIvUySFnixEkyijoOGEBOnEB2qAzfANlURC1ctApPL0D6W2mc8joftkNYc-/s320/sleeping_beauty.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5110533530547460162" /></a><br /><br /><br /><a name="ITALIAN16"></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9OZ2jq9U0HQAwYMofwwVTtZDnTdWTx06IY-mfnS5v62fQW1t72qCRxzvVG-XlbQ6uz_Fe1ZoJ6Uv-thY4nUwph5hinNhIBhVY-R4jJ1WNoJofTvyGH_2l3EP7u6e0o7Yt5ip-ZXc4Ma7A/s1600-h/bagnanti.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9OZ2jq9U0HQAwYMofwwVTtZDnTdWTx06IY-mfnS5v62fQW1t72qCRxzvVG-XlbQ6uz_Fe1ZoJ6Uv-thY4nUwph5hinNhIBhVY-R4jJ1WNoJofTvyGH_2l3EP7u6e0o7Yt5ip-ZXc4Ma7A/s320/bagnanti.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5110531550567536626" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt-kl1Alz7NtyDhAnaMT5PtMfR0v2B4ItGERDY-yYZhFwUX33NdGcpNifEXNFoIYNK8tMx0D8SkXNXsuprfKVfNQt2Ww1Ai7GSIB9uAjwepYa-AvoPuVo4SJpl1pLMoGO3huXBs5tSB73H/s1600-h/sand_bar.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt-kl1Alz7NtyDhAnaMT5PtMfR0v2B4ItGERDY-yYZhFwUX33NdGcpNifEXNFoIYNK8tMx0D8SkXNXsuprfKVfNQt2Ww1Ai7GSIB9uAjwepYa-AvoPuVo4SJpl1pLMoGO3huXBs5tSB73H/s200/sand_bar.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5110531808265574402" /></a> Sono passate alcune settimane da quando abbiamo camminato fino ad Arpoador, ma abbiamo preso abbastanza foto che vale la pena di fare un post. La tempesta di 5 settimane fa ha creato numerosi bassifondi lungo la spiaggia, e per la prima volta da quando siamo qui i Brasiliani stanno andando in acqua. Un bassofondo e' tipicamente a 10 metri dalla riva, per arrivarci uno deve attraversare acqua profonda da 60 a 150 cm, Il bassofondo sara' profondo solo 10-30 cm, le onde non propagano, sbattono l' una contro l' altra, e creano giochi d'acqua che ipnotizzano. <br />I bassifondi che ci sono ora sono ad angolo ripetto alla spiaggia e nel canale profondo ci sara' corrente che va parallela alla riva. Puo' essere forte.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWOOUopDczeEhr2w9972Wml0NsmLI_BXokD0dHh3CnaSOi97QQBmo2SYLC40u_3jHzLd9_kEtclynoZ5l8lKTdNiXriU812RnonRK9xBQiC7wMus7kPIUXRNrIzrrvjpAmHQISDaIHWW3N/s1600-h/dois_irmaos.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWOOUopDczeEhr2w9972Wml0NsmLI_BXokD0dHh3CnaSOi97QQBmo2SYLC40u_3jHzLd9_kEtclynoZ5l8lKTdNiXriU812RnonRK9xBQiC7wMus7kPIUXRNrIzrrvjpAmHQISDaIHWW3N/s200/dois_irmaos.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5110532443920734242" /></a> Ma, il sabato che siamo andati ad Arpoador i Brasiliani erano tutti in spiaggia, e molti in acqua a dispetto delle grandi onde e delle bandiere rosse dappertutto. Abbiamo camminato lungo il bagnasciuga di Ipanema. Arpoador e' una formazione rocciosa che si spinge nell' oceano e divide Ipanema da Copacabana. Ci passo davanti ogni giorno andando al lavoro ma non ero mai andato sul promontorio. Il promontorio sono infatti due, separati da una piccola spiaggia. Su Arpoador c' erano numerosi visitatori che ammiravano le onde che si frangevano ulle rocce, e i pescatori a canna che alle volte pescano anche dalla spiagge dalle due parti del promontorio, e anche da altre punte rocciose, come quella che c'e' dall' altra parte di Leblon, sotto i Dois Irmaos( vedi <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b4hHQD7IaDk">video</a>). <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-5xhN9UCYphOaoaOygUppZ8k_-u7dK-x844HAGxOzrWGtqnEtvO-4F8xOuMABfzBLUB6CaAu4rD0uEBkZohHYB9WX5MTgYEDsIafxEfqTgtPq2K753vO7KjVXmqLlFIlYB4xITgvigDhD/s1600-h/copa_side.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-5xhN9UCYphOaoaOygUppZ8k_-u7dK-x844HAGxOzrWGtqnEtvO-4F8xOuMABfzBLUB6CaAu4rD0uEBkZohHYB9WX5MTgYEDsIafxEfqTgtPq2K753vO7KjVXmqLlFIlYB4xITgvigDhD/s200/copa_side.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5110532641489229874" /></a> Cercano di prendere pesci di altura che si avvicinano alla riva, ci dicono, ma noi non abbiamo mai visto un pescatore a canna che prendeva un pesce. La nostra amica Stefanella ci dice che c'e' una caverna sotto Arpoador, dove vive uno spacciatore di droga. Sicuramente le onde lo hanno sfrattato quel giorno. Da Arpoador c'e' una gran vista delle isole fuori di Rio.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhNSuP_hO9d-OpW6WWf874dhKKnLLUXjCtkKM16p9sLzl1D2ddAr7Ap0fq_A3ziccTz91JijrnjJGXEFwmf4PdFImmanxjAHmU83TYu58C1BV7ph5C4uPRJm6l2lz9IfFfSU10oSjT-3hv/s1600-h/beach.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhNSuP_hO9d-OpW6WWf874dhKKnLLUXjCtkKM16p9sLzl1D2ddAr7Ap0fq_A3ziccTz91JijrnjJGXEFwmf4PdFImmanxjAHmU83TYu58C1BV7ph5C4uPRJm6l2lz9IfFfSU10oSjT-3hv/s200/beach.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5110531125365774306" /></a> Nella piccola spiaggia, le regole locali sono che i cani possono fare quello che vogliono. Naturalmente ci sono ogni tipo di padroni che danno ai loro cani un po' di vera esperienza da spiaggia, sciami di can che si inseguono, e le razze nuotatrici che si avventurano nelle onde dietro a bastoni, scomparendo nell schiuma. L' altra cosa che i padroni fanno qui, per i loro cani, e' comprargli il cocco. I venditori lo spaccano a mo' di scodella con il loro machete, e lo mettono di fronte al cane. I cani, tutti, amano il cocco. Abbiamo bevuto un cocco pure noi prima di tornare a casa.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZktQ1tIGbnYNOwW-h4vjW7txmNMeQdUBtxtX9uGwVqNyRg1y04Xcuzhr29G-HwQItnFfaahnSXDo41KXldBIvUySFnixEkyijoOGEBOnEB2qAzfANlURC1ctApPL0D6W2mc8joftkNYc-/s1600-h/sleeping_beauty.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZktQ1tIGbnYNOwW-h4vjW7txmNMeQdUBtxtX9uGwVqNyRg1y04Xcuzhr29G-HwQItnFfaahnSXDo41KXldBIvUySFnixEkyijoOGEBOnEB2qAzfANlURC1ctApPL0D6W2mc8joftkNYc-/s320/sleeping_beauty.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5110533530547460162" /></a>Monica, Maria, Giovannihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10405831812151522517noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2104461867688933676.post-82902748706785668612007-09-03T16:25:00.000-07:002007-09-15T13:20:32.767-07:00Canal Rural<a href="#ITALIAN15"> <b>(in italiano)</b></a><br /><br />When I was a kid there was on italian television a show to teach people how to read and write, and also elementary math. It was called "It is never too late", and although it was in part devoted to the then many illiterate italians, that is how I learned to read and write well before I went to elementary school. <br />So TV is not 100% bad, but merely 99.999%. Well, italian and american TV are 100% bad these days, except for the World Cup and a few other football necessities (still, football here is better. I get to see lots of quality futbol de sala). But Brazil, the breadbasket of the world (the world's biggest producer of just about any important cash crop, amongst them beef, poultry, corn, soyabeans, sugarcane, orange juice and coffee), has a similarly socially useful channel, the Canal Rural, devoted to all things agricultural.<br /><br />It has a Soya Daily (basically a stockmarket daily bulletin for agricultural commodities), all sorts of programs about vegetables, fruit trees, liming the soil (the soil here is universally acid, many crops require lime), organic stuff, ecology, tractor fixing, fair trade coffee, you name it. At least the programs on ecology have good scientific content.<br /><br />But the real star of the shows are the cows. For hours on end, every night, we get treated to cows running across the screen as if they are on a catwalk. Crowds line the corral. The commentator praises their looks and genetics. Hilariously, the defile' will be occasionally accompanied by thumping music, exactly like with supermodels on a catwalk. And why not? Those cows, and their large, meaty, profitable carcasses, probably fire neurons in the cattlemen's heads similar to those fired by the supermodels.<br /><br />The cows, I have already mentioned it, are of the indian variety, adapted to tropical climates. They are white with flabby neck skin, a hump in the back, and narrow little hooves. Of course they have been crossed and recrossed, and scrawny they are not. <br />There is only one variety of regular cows, light brown in color, raised only in the extreme south. Then there are interviews with local cattlemen, salt of the earth types, typically with a positive, optimistic outlook. And surely if you are in that business, the outlook is positive for a long time to come.<br /><br />Here are some practical considerations: land is cheap, water is plentiful, they get three crops a year, which means that they harvest and plant every day in a typical fazenda (which can easily be several square km). Soyabeans and sugarcane improve the soil, and sugarcane is a biennial crop. I remember that the California site where we vacation most years, which has a huge grassfed beef operation, has two tractors that are used to make hay for the winter once a year. The tractors were bought in the 1940s and may have been used only a few hundred times. Here the combines are used for five years every day, and then they get new, modern, tech-advanced ones.<br /><br />And speaking of cows, they need no barn to house farm animals, or hay, because there is no winter. And there is a substantial university based research program that supports them (even at in my physics Dept. I noticed). Now wine is produced in the Rio Francisco valley, ten degrees from the equator. I eat the slipskin grapes that come from there (they are very good). They have two grape crops a year. And they have native fruits too numerous to count, 400 pages of native fruits in my Brazilian Fruit manual, many of which could yet turn into important cash crops. <br /><br /><br /><a name="ITALIAN15"></a><br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;"> Il Canale Rurale.</span><br /><br />Quando ero bambino in TV in Italia c'era "Non e' mai troppo tardi". Era dedicato, in parte, alla frazione di italiani che era ancora analfabeta, ma e' cosi' che ho imparato a leggere, scrivere e far di conto prima ancora di cominciare scuola.<br />La TV non e' 100% cattiva, solo 99.999%. In Italia o in America e' 100% cattiva al presente, eccetto per la Coppa del Mondo e alcune altre necessita' calcistiche (in ogni caso il calcio qui e' meglio. Riesco a vedere tutto il calcetto di qualita' che voglio). Ma il Brasile, il paniere del mondo (il piu' grosso produttore di ogni raccolto economicamente importante, carne, pollo, mais, soia, canna da zucchero, succo d' arancia e caffe'), ha un canale utile, il Canal Rural, dedicato a ogni soggetto connesso in qualche modo all' agricoltura. <br /><br />Ha un Bollettino della soia (una specie di telegiornale sull' andamento in borsa dei vari raccolti agricoli), ogni sorta di programmi su verdure, frutteti, amministrazione del suolo (che qui e' universalmente acido, molti raccolti necessitano di calce), biologico, ecologia, manutenzione di utensili agricoli, caffe' fair trade, tutto. Almeno i programmi sull' ambiente sono di buona qualita' scientifica.<br /><br />Ma le vere stelle dello show sono le vacche. Ogni sera per ore ci sono sfilate di vacche. La telecamera le segue mentre attraversano il recinto al trotto, spesso accompagnate dal padrone. Ci sono numerosi spettatori. Il cronista diventa poetico quando parla delle loro cosce e della loro genetica. Un particolare un po' ridicolo e' che di tanto in tanto la sfilata e' accompagnata da musica tipo disco, come con le modelle di sfilate di moda. E perche' no? Quelle vacche, e le loro carcasse muscolose e remunerative probabilmente attivano gli stessi neuroni, negli allevatori, delle supermodelle.<br /><br />Le vacche, come ho gia' detto, sono esclusivamente di varieta' indiana, adatte al clima tropicale. Sono uniformemente bianche, con pelle floscia sotto il collo, la gobba, e gambe sottili con zoccoli piccoli. Naturalmente sono state incrociate e riincrociate, e sono belle pesanti. C'e' solo una varieta' di vacche regolari, colore marrone chiaro, allevate solo nel profondo sud. Poi ci sono interviste con gli allevatori, gente della terra, ma con una visione del mondo ottimista. E sicuramente se uno e' in quel business il futuro e' pieno di promesse.<br /><br />Ecco alcune considerazioni pratiche: la terra costa poco, c'e' acqua dappertutto, producono 3 raccolti all' anno, che significa che ogni giorno raccolgono e ripiantano alcuni campi in una fazenda tipica (che puo' essere qualche km quadro). Soia e canna da zucchero migliorano la terra, e la canna e' un raccolto biennale. Mi ricordo che il sito in California dove andiamo in vacanza in estate, che ha un grande ranch per produzione di carne "da erba" (manzi che sono allevati puramente a erba), ha due trattori che vengono usati per fare fieno per l' inverno una volta l' anno. I trattori erano stati comprati negli anni 1940 e sono stati usati solamente alcune centinaia di volte. Qui le grandi mietitrebbie sono usate ogni giorno per 5 anni, e poi ne comprano una nuova, tecnologicamente avanzata. <br /><br />E parlando di vacche, non hanno bisogno di edifici ne' per gli animali ne' per il fieno, perche' non c'e' inverno. E c'e' un forte programma di ricerca a livello universitario per sviluppare l' agricoltura (incluso nel mio Dipartimento ho notato). Ora vino e' prodotto nella valle del Rio Francisco, dieci gradi dall' equatore. Io mangio l' uva piccola che viene da la' (e' ottima). Hanno due vendemmie all' anno. E hanno frutta nativa, 400 pagine nel mio manuale di frutta Brasiliana, alcuni dei quali potrebbero eventualmente diventare raccolti importanti.Monica, Maria, Giovannihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10405831812151522517noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2104461867688933676.post-74797310798071533372007-08-01T14:54:00.000-07:002007-08-13T18:05:46.219-07:00Maracana'<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFmXS0lVq2_1yLvqS7tL5LWX_C664oY4CAeqHFNN_Je5Gr-Xtr2flPUGF9ulz5pox73kbtgjZD9XK1lz_Nv9k1jZ5Qzbvgchig08C_CKI8k8H00OgwWJ563NJ_jdgVklot02G7lFGMXwHY/s1600-h/mmg_maracana.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFmXS0lVq2_1yLvqS7tL5LWX_C664oY4CAeqHFNN_Je5Gr-Xtr2flPUGF9ulz5pox73kbtgjZD9XK1lz_Nv9k1jZ5Qzbvgchig08C_CKI8k8H00OgwWJ563NJ_jdgVklot02G7lFGMXwHY/s320/mmg_maracana.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5098352691502322338" /></a><br /><br /><a href="#ITALIAN14"> <b>(in italiano)</b></a><br /><br />Last Friday we went to Maracana', the largest football stadium in the world. For the World Cup Final 1950, the attendance was 200,000, standing room only on the concrete steps. A few years back seats were added, and now Maracana' can hold only 100,000. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTQd0LdHabKNVRU7agdCo8dLh-A8TVqd-cnaKO6MERwTNUNG1aI-1wRbMZjTyruU1uB412Nxa7Gz-jP2EFwwqMj6xSvOpNaOrNKAH7TFTw3Aoz4azGbhxEwlJjqhF2OMa61hKqgxOdlkBS/s1600-h/ecuador_jamaica.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTQd0LdHabKNVRU7agdCo8dLh-A8TVqd-cnaKO6MERwTNUNG1aI-1wRbMZjTyruU1uB412Nxa7Gz-jP2EFwwqMj6xSvOpNaOrNKAH7TFTw3Aoz4azGbhxEwlJjqhF2OMa61hKqgxOdlkBS/s200/ecuador_jamaica.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5098354014352249538" /></a> The Pan Am Football Final was on. Argentina and Brazil had sent their national teams to Copa America, the U-20 to the U-20 World Cup in Canada, and so both countries sent the U-17 teams here. They were both routed, and the finals was Ecuador against Jamaica.<br /><br />Five people converged onto Maracana' from four different spots in the city using various forms of public transportation (I took a bus to Botafogo, and the Metro from there). I left my backpack at the metal detector, went back to find it (to the wrong side of the Maracana'), and by the time I got back Jamaica had struck a 3rd minute goal on a fast counterattack. Jamaica had a good goalie, a well organized defense, and nothing else, so they played italian style football. Ecuador controlled the ball but could not threaten, except for winger Montero who played the first half right before our seats.<br /> <br />Then, in the last seven minutes of the second half, when everyone was convinced Jamaica had the gold wrapped up, Ecuador struck twice and got the gold themselves. Montero scored first by breaking into the box, passing for a shot that was deflected onto his path. His one-time shot from close range left no chance. Three minutes later there was the decisive and controversial penalty. Ecuador came under our stands to celebrate with their scarce supporters. Maria and I went down to the edge (there is no fence), and we got to see them from two or three feet. I asked Montero for his shirt but no chance. The Ecuador water guy gave Maria a free drink however. We went to the other side of the field to see the ceremony as night descended on the Maracana' (very nice). And lo and behold, going out we checked the right side of the stadium, and there was my backpack at the Lost and Found. <br /> <br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYu1Os3RwKM8HkofLwJX4gWCy7nAepDCf4voagQgnUcR-2OoQIAYgGBEuJ0W5JvTLLQ3p5NWZ8pDP7AhS82Pc0sclpcaMu2_Zg-sny9RyE3dFnn6-qDW27z9muu2j8E2UQ3GjIIWajUyrv/s1600-h/maracana.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYu1Os3RwKM8HkofLwJX4gWCy7nAepDCf4voagQgnUcR-2OoQIAYgGBEuJ0W5JvTLLQ3p5NWZ8pDP7AhS82Pc0sclpcaMu2_Zg-sny9RyE3dFnn6-qDW27z9muu2j8E2UQ3GjIIWajUyrv/s200/maracana.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5098353477481337522" /></a> Maracana' holds this many people because it is a shallow, huge bowl with a double deck structure. Not surprisingly, the lines of sight are poor and you are far from the action. We moved around seeking a bit more elevation to see the game better. We were also 20 meters from the olympic flame that was burning generously. The heat could be felt at our position (good thing because the sweater was in the backpack). At halftime our position was mobbed by people who wanted a picture with the flame.<br /><br />The field is in poor shape, due to the continuous playing there. Rio has four Serie A teams (Flamengo, Botafogo, Vasco de Gama, and Fluminense). They all play most of their home games there, as the place guarantees more revenue than their own stadia. The distributed schedule of brazilian football allows for two games a week to be played there.<br /><br />The other sacred stadium in South America is the Bombonera in Buenos Aires, the site of the 1978 World Cup Final, totally different in architecture. There the seats are directly on top of the field, so tight that there is no room for the run-up before a corner kick (there are literally two meters from foul line to the fence). The other peculiarity of the Bombonera is that supporters throw huge amounts of paper on the field, the game is regularly played on a field covered in trash, which makes the games unwatchable on TV. Alas, I still watch them.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6oGGPUeffJtf4zq4kyhO00Z8X4yBnHnEh63Q1xw0yq7LuzdhiK0O2kCuDugRN0NKXIqTlXMuZOpSIqKsmRu-3lnag0FFUsP-DtXourLTz2kOlbNesbrixdK8Dxh21Q6dWI4Y8AlzMt6dh/s1600-h/premiazione.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6oGGPUeffJtf4zq4kyhO00Z8X4yBnHnEh63Q1xw0yq7LuzdhiK0O2kCuDugRN0NKXIqTlXMuZOpSIqKsmRu-3lnag0FFUsP-DtXourLTz2kOlbNesbrixdK8Dxh21Q6dWI4Y8AlzMt6dh/s320/premiazione.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5098355981447271122" /></a><br /><br /><a name="ITALIAN14"></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFmXS0lVq2_1yLvqS7tL5LWX_C664oY4CAeqHFNN_Je5Gr-Xtr2flPUGF9ulz5pox73kbtgjZD9XK1lz_Nv9k1jZ5Qzbvgchig08C_CKI8k8H00OgwWJ563NJ_jdgVklot02G7lFGMXwHY/s1600-h/mmg_maracana.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFmXS0lVq2_1yLvqS7tL5LWX_C664oY4CAeqHFNN_Je5Gr-Xtr2flPUGF9ulz5pox73kbtgjZD9XK1lz_Nv9k1jZ5Qzbvgchig08C_CKI8k8H00OgwWJ563NJ_jdgVklot02G7lFGMXwHY/s320/mmg_maracana.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5098352691502322338" /></a><br /><br /><br />Venerdi' scorso siamo andati al Maracana', il piu' grande stadio del mondo. per la finale della Coppa del Mondo 1950 c'erano 200000 spettatori, assiepati sulle gradinate. Qualche anno fa hanno installato sedili, e ora il Maracana' contiene solo 100,000 spettatori. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTQd0LdHabKNVRU7agdCo8dLh-A8TVqd-cnaKO6MERwTNUNG1aI-1wRbMZjTyruU1uB412Nxa7Gz-jP2EFwwqMj6xSvOpNaOrNKAH7TFTw3Aoz4azGbhxEwlJjqhF2OMa61hKqgxOdlkBS/s1600-h/ecuador_jamaica.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTQd0LdHabKNVRU7agdCo8dLh-A8TVqd-cnaKO6MERwTNUNG1aI-1wRbMZjTyruU1uB412Nxa7Gz-jP2EFwwqMj6xSvOpNaOrNKAH7TFTw3Aoz4azGbhxEwlJjqhF2OMa61hKqgxOdlkBS/s200/ecuador_jamaica.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5098354014352249538" /></a> C' era la finale di calcio dei Giochi. Argentina e Brasile <br />avevano spedito le loro squadre alla Copa America, le squadre Under 20 al Campionato del Mondo U-20 in Canada, e cosi' hanno spedito li' le squadre Under 17. Tutte e due si sono fatte massacrare, e la finale era Equador e Giamaica. <br /><br />Eravamo in cinque e venivamo al Maracana' da quattro quartieri differenti usando varie forme di trasporto pubblico (io ho preso il minibus fino a Botafogo, e poi il Metro). Ho lasciato il mio sacco al metal detector, sono dovuto tornare indietro per trovarlo (sono andato dalla parte sbagliata del Maracana'), e quando sono tornato ho trovato che la Giamaica aveva fatto gol dopo 3 minuti con un rapido contropiede.<br />La Giamaica aveva un buon portiere, una buona difesa, e nient' altro, e giocava un po' all' italiana. Ecuador aveva possesso di palla ma non minacciava, eccetto per l' ala Montero che gioco' tutto il primo tempo proprio davanti a noi.<br /><br />All' 83esimo, quando tutti nello stadio pensavano che la Giamaica avesse l' oro in tasca, l' Equador segno' due volte nel giro di tre minuti. Montero segno' per primo entrando in area, e passando per un tiro ribattuto sui suoi piedi. Il suo tocco di prima non ha dato scampo. Tre minuti piu' tardi ci fu il rigore decisivo e un po' dubbio. L' Equador venne sotto i nostri spalti per celebrare con i loro tifosi, quattro gatti in tutto. Io e Maria siamo andati giu' (non c'e' grata), e li abbiamo potuti vedere da un metro. Ho chiesto la maglia a Montero ma non me l' ha data. Il massaggiatore ha dato a Maria una bibita. Poi siamo andati dall' altra parte del campo a vedere la premiazione mentre la notte scendeva sul Maracana' (molto bello).<br />E per finire, uscendo abbiamo trovato lo zainetto agli Oggetti Smarriti dalla parte giusta dello stadio. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYu1Os3RwKM8HkofLwJX4gWCy7nAepDCf4voagQgnUcR-2OoQIAYgGBEuJ0W5JvTLLQ3p5NWZ8pDP7AhS82Pc0sclpcaMu2_Zg-sny9RyE3dFnn6-qDW27z9muu2j8E2UQ3GjIIWajUyrv/s1600-h/maracana.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYu1Os3RwKM8HkofLwJX4gWCy7nAepDCf4voagQgnUcR-2OoQIAYgGBEuJ0W5JvTLLQ3p5NWZ8pDP7AhS82Pc0sclpcaMu2_Zg-sny9RyE3dFnn6-qDW27z9muu2j8E2UQ3GjIIWajUyrv/s200/maracana.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5098353477481337522" /></a> Maracana' ha una capienza tale perche' e' enorme, con una struttura a bassa pendenza e a doppia gradinata. Naturalmente, si vede il gioco male. Ci siamo mossi in giro per cercare di vedere la partita meglio. Eravamo pure a 20 metri dalla fiamma olimpica, che era bella calda. Il calore si sentiva benissimo alla nostra posizione (una buona cosa perche' la maglia era nello zainetto). Durante l' intervallo la gente e' venuta li' in quantita' per farsi la foto von la fiamma. <br /><br />Il campo pure e' mediocre, a causa delle molte partite giocate. Rio ha quattro squadre di Serie A (Vasco de Gama, Flamengo, Botafogo, e Fluminense). Tutti giocano la gran parte delle partite in casa qui, per aumentare i profitti. A causa della struttura distribuita del calendario, riescono a giocare due volte alla settimana qui. <br /><br />L' altro stadio sacro in Sud America e' il Bombonera a Buenos Aires, sede della Finale di Coppa del Mondo 1978, e totalmente differente in architettura. La' il pubblico si trova direttamente sopra il campo, cosi' vicino che non c'e' posto per la rincorsa quando si batte un angolo (ci sono letteralmente due metri tra linea laterale e grata). L' altra cosa speciale del Bombonera e' che i tifosi buttano quantita' incredibili di carta sul campo, e le partite si giocano di solito su un campo coperto di rifiuti, che rende la partita inguardabile in TV. In ogni modo, le guardo lo stesso.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6oGGPUeffJtf4zq4kyhO00Z8X4yBnHnEh63Q1xw0yq7LuzdhiK0O2kCuDugRN0NKXIqTlXMuZOpSIqKsmRu-3lnag0FFUsP-DtXourLTz2kOlbNesbrixdK8Dxh21Q6dWI4Y8AlzMt6dh/s1600-h/premiazione.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6oGGPUeffJtf4zq4kyhO00Z8X4yBnHnEh63Q1xw0yq7LuzdhiK0O2kCuDugRN0NKXIqTlXMuZOpSIqKsmRu-3lnag0FFUsP-DtXourLTz2kOlbNesbrixdK8Dxh21Q6dWI4Y8AlzMt6dh/s320/premiazione.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5098355981447271122" /></a>Monica, Maria, Giovannihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10405831812151522517noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2104461867688933676.post-15658701800991097442007-07-30T15:21:00.000-07:002007-08-13T17:38:34.164-07:00Winter weekend<a href="#ITALIAN13"> <b>(in italiano)</b></a><br /><br />This weekend has been the coldest, probably for the year, with highs in the low 60. It rained all day saturday as we moved to a better, much cheaper apartment across the street. If you are reading this with the idea of getting clues on how to live in Brazil, avoid dealing with real estate agencies. Without going into details, it has been extremely expensive (people at work get a shock every time I tell them how much they charged us), they gave us an apartment with several things missing, and I just know they will find excuses not to give back the deposit. They made us pay for the agency fees. They earned our mistrust many times over.<br /><br />And all this for an apartment which is so damp that mold grew in our empty suitcases. Now we are in an apartment with a real oven, hot water available on demand, drier and sunnier. The owner was with us all day Saturday, and by the end of the day we had gas, light, internet, TV, and a phone line. It took 24 days in the previous apartment.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwOCtem1Cr31HupojU030llXdGQ1_GLZou7j2GzPJH0DD8ZbkTOThXBdPHhlW-wHZLWBHr_Zz8yQ93LYuVTRfaMKpLRN848jJ5FOx2x7TKq7mTwlTQuZXIc_Xs2aK4kN7-rTL7_b3u6o48/s1600-h/bracarense.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwOCtem1Cr31HupojU030llXdGQ1_GLZou7j2GzPJH0DD8ZbkTOThXBdPHhlW-wHZLWBHr_Zz8yQ93LYuVTRfaMKpLRN848jJ5FOx2x7TKq7mTwlTQuZXIc_Xs2aK4kN7-rTL7_b3u6o48/s200/bracarense.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5098348804556919442" /></a> Sunday was the the last day of vacation for Maria (there is a three weeks winter break in July) and she had been invited by a schoolmate to go see a play. It was cold but sunny. We had lunch at the great Bar Bracarense, which anchors the social life of our block. No way you can get a seat there unless you are so american you want to have lunch at noon (as we did). As it was, we got the last table and when we left people were standing around waiting for tables. As we walked down Ataulfo and towards Ipanema, we looked down towards the beach and noticed that, even at 300 meters, the surf was above our heads. We took a turn, went to the beach, and found that the winter storm had washed away most of the beach, tons of sand were in the avenue, and both sand and saltwater were up to about 20 meters beyond the beginning of the first block. Crews were frantically at work to clear the sand and make the monday commute possible. By far the biggest surf so far, with waves of several meters.<br /><br />Down the street, the canal, under the force of wind and tide, was raging with foaming waves pushing sea water into the Lagoa. And with the high water, and big soliton waves still going strong up the canal hundreds of meters inland, the sides of the canal were lined with fishermen with casting nets as the high water favors fish migration. Both the surf and the fishermen were worth pictures or movies, but we were without the camera. The apartment in Ipanema (where Maria's schoolmate lives) turned out to be a 14th floor penthouse with a stunning view of the Lagoa. We will post a movie from there at the first available opportunity.<br /><br />Later that night, we got to watch the closing ceremony of the Games at Maracana'. The Games were supposed to be a general test of Brazil readiness for the World Cup 2014 (the presentation to the FIFA is today) and (it is rumored) a possible bid by Rio for the 2016 Olympics. There were many good things, but probably the strongest and lasting impression is the one left by the Congonhas disaster. I am not sure where to begin discussing it. The Congonhas runway is marginally shorter than the La Guardia one, but add to it a faulty reverser on the plane, and poor drainage due to poor maintenance of the runway, and you get a disaster (today they also found from the black box that one of the throttles was on full). The images of a Lula deputy, making a jubilatory obscene gesture upon learning that the reverser was disabled (he felt he was now off the hook evidently) were more memorable than any sporting moment at the Games. Lula has his heart in the right place, but ultimately this is Brazil and has had to give ministries to many incompetent allies. They look exactly like italian politicians from the 1960s. It is not even clear if this is, long term, good for Brazil. Anyway, I don't know that Brazil will be able to keep the Cup, if people's transportation can not be guaranteed. The Pan Am games are a small thing compared to the World Cup.<br /><br />Anyhow, with the rains of the last week causing many postponements, there was a flurry of events on the last day, so that Brazil nearly doubled its medals in three days, and medal ceremonies lasted into the closing ceremony. TV Broadcasters did their best to pump Brazilian nationalistic feelings and generally hyping things. I am not sure I like it. After all, Cuba, a much smaller nation, got approximately the same number of medals. Chinese observers certainly went home having noted that they need one million rain ponchos.<br /><br />Monday the bike lane was still under sand but the Avenida was clear. Large piles of sand were on the beach, waiting to be flattened by heavy machinery so the place could look like a beach again. Many paving stones in sidewalks had been broken loose by the rain and the waves. Workers were hard at work dismantling the movie theater on the beach in Ipanema (Monica went twice there, once with her friend Stefanella and once with Maria). The Pan Am memorabilia tent at the end of Copa had a big "liquidacao" (sale), and the two tents near it were being dismantled. The military police was gone. Maria went back to school. The semester started at CBPF. By Wednesday we should be back at 80F.<br />The good news is that the storm has dumped a brand new, big sand bar on the beach right in front of our apartment. Sand bars are a favorite spot for people who want to play in the waves. They can get pretty crowded on a Saturday with the right waves. Last time we were at the beach, Maria had me walk her to a sand bar 200 meters away four times. <br /><br /><br /><a name="ITALIAN13"></a><br /><br />Questo fine settimana ha avuto il tempo piu' freddo dell' anno, con temperature massime di 16 gradi. Sabato ha piovuto tutto il giorno mentre traslocavamo a un appartamento migliore e meno caro dall' altra parte della strada. Se stai leggendo questo blog per avere un' idea di come si vive in Brasile, cerca di non trattare con agenzie immobiliari. Senza andare nei dettagli, e' stato estremamente costoso (la gente al lavoro e' scioccata ogni volta che gli dico quanto abbiamo speso), ci hanno dato un appartamento con diverse cose mancanti, e lo so che daranno problemi per ritornare il deposito. Cu hanno fatto pagare a noi le spese di agenzia. hanno guadagnato la nostra sfiducia in molti modi differenti.<br /><br />E tutto questo per un appartamento che e' cosi' umido che la muffa cresceva nelle nostre valigie. ora siamo in un appartamento con un forno che funziona, con acqua calda disponibile a ogni momento, piu' secco e soleggiato. La padrona di casa e' stata con noi tutto il giorno sabato, e alla fine della giornata avevamo luce, gas, telefono, TV e Internet. Nell' altro posto ci sono voluti 24 giorni.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwOCtem1Cr31HupojU030llXdGQ1_GLZou7j2GzPJH0DD8ZbkTOThXBdPHhlW-wHZLWBHr_Zz8yQ93LYuVTRfaMKpLRN848jJ5FOx2x7TKq7mTwlTQuZXIc_Xs2aK4kN7-rTL7_b3u6o48/s1600-h/bracarense.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwOCtem1Cr31HupojU030llXdGQ1_GLZou7j2GzPJH0DD8ZbkTOThXBdPHhlW-wHZLWBHr_Zz8yQ93LYuVTRfaMKpLRN848jJ5FOx2x7TKq7mTwlTQuZXIc_Xs2aK4kN7-rTL7_b3u6o48/s200/bracarense.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5098348804556919442" /></a> Domenica era l' ultimo giorno di vacanza per Maria (c'e' una vacanza invernale di 3 settimane in luglio) e lei era stata invitata da una compagna di scuola ad andare a teatro. Era freddo ma c'era il sole. Abbiamo fatto pranzo al grande Bar Bracarense, un pilastro della vita sociale del quartiere. Non c'e' modo di trovare un posto a sedere amenoche' uno non sia cosi' americano da voler fare pranzo alle 12 in punto (come noi, per esempio). Ma, alle 12 abbiamo avuto l' ultima tavola e quando siamo partiti c'era gente dappertutto sul marciapiede che aspettava. Siamo andati giu' per Ataulfo verso Ipanema, e abbiamo dato un' occhiata verso la spiaggia. Anche se eravamo a 300 metri dalla spiaggia, potevamo vedere che le onde erano piu' alte delle nostre teste. Abbiamo girato verso la spiaggia, e una volta la' abbiamo visto che la tempesta aveva completamente sommerso la spiaggia, che tonnellate di sabbia erano sulla strada a 8 corsie, e acqua e sabbia avevano penetrato il primo isolato per circa 20 metri. Lavoratori stavano cercando di sgombrare la strada, cosicche' il traffico del lunedi' potesse scorrere. Di gran lunga le onde piu' grandi dell' anno, alte 6-8 metri. <br /><br />Giu' per la strada il canale, sotto la spinta delle onde e della marea, era mosso da grandi onde che spingevano acqua salata nella Lagoa. E con l' acqua alta, e le onde "soliton" che erano ancora alte a centinaia di metri dalla spiaggia, le rive del canale erano piene di pescatori con la rete a lancio, perche' l' acqua alta favorisce la migrazione del pesce. Sia le onde che i pescatori erano degni di foto o film, ma eravamo sxenza macchina. L' appartamento a Ipanema (dove la compagna di Maria vive) e' risultato essere un attico al 14esimo e 15esimo piano con una vista incredibile sulla Lagoa. Vi faremo vedere un film alla prima opportunita'. <br /><br />Nella tarda serata abbiamo visto la cerimonia finale dei giochi al Maracana'. I Giochi erano un test generale per il Brasile in vista della Coppa Del Mondo 2014 (la presentazione ufficiale alla FIFA era oggi) e, si dice, per una possibile candidatura di Rio per le Olimpiadi 2016. Parte dei Giochi sono stati organizzati bene, ma probabilmente l' impressione piu' forte e' quella lasciata dal disastro di Congonhas. Non so bene da dove cominciare. La pista a Congonhas e' solo di poco piu' corta di quella di La Guardia, ma aggiungi un invertitore di turbina mancante, e poco drenaggio a causa della poca manutenzione della pista, e ottieni un disastro (oggi dalla scatola nera hanno trovato anche che uno dei due motori era al massimo). Le immagini di un ministro di Lula, che fa un gesto osceno di giubilazione quando impara che l' invertitore era rotto (evidentemente pensava di essere salvo a quel punto) sono piu' memorabili di qualsiasi momento sportivo dei Giochi. Lula avra' il cuore dalla parte giusta, ma all fine questo e' il Brasile e ha dovuto dare un sacco di posti a alleati incompetenti. Questi sembrano politici italiani degli anni 60. Non e' nemmeno chiaro se questo sia, a lungo termine, una buona cosa per il Brasile. Ad ogni modo, non so se il Brasile riuscira' a tenere la Coppa, se il trasporto aereo non puo' essere garantito. I Giochi sono una cosa molto piu' piccola della Coppa. <br /><br /><br />Con le piogge della scorsa settimana, motli eventi sono stati posticipati, e c'e' stata una valanga di eventi nell' ultimo giorno, e il Brasile ha quasi raddoppiato le sue medaglie in tre giorni, e cerimonie di premiazione hanno continuato anche durante la cerimonia di chiusura. I cronisti brasiliani hanno fatto del loro meglio per pompare il nazionalismo brasiliano e in generale creare "hype", eccitazione artificiale. Non sono sicuro che mi piaccia. Alla fine Cuba, una nazione molto piu' piccola, ha ottenuto quasi lo stesso numero di medaglie del Brasile. Osservatori cinesi sicuramente sono andati a casa a dire che bisogna comprare un milione di impermeabili.<br /><br />Lunedi' la ciclovia era ancora coperta di sabbia ma la strada era stata liberata. Mucchi di sabbia erano sulla spiaggia, in attesa di essere pareggiati con ruspe, cosi' che il posto possa sembrare di nuovo una spiaggia. Molti sanpietrini erano stati sloggiati dalla pioggia e dalle onde. Equipaggi stavano smantellando il cinema sulla spiaggia a Ipanema (Monica e' andata due volte, con la sua amica Stefanella e con Maria). La tenda che vende souvenirs a Copa ha una grande liquidacao, e le due tende vicino sono state smantellate. La polizia militare ha ridotto la sua presenza. Maria e' tornata a scuola. Il semestre e' cominciato a CBPF. Mercoledi' dovremmo tornare a 26 gradi. La tempesta ha creato un bassofondo sabbioso sulla spiaggia proprio di fronte al nostro appartamento. I bassifondi sono un posto popolare per quelli che vogliono giocare con le onde. Ci puo' essere molta gente su un bassofondo un sabato con le onde giuste. L' ultima volta che eravamo in spiaggia, Maria mi ha fatto andare quattro volte a un bassofondo a 200 metri di distanza.Monica, Maria, Giovannihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10405831812151522517noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2104461867688933676.post-46029320578175218962007-07-18T14:30:00.000-07:002007-08-13T17:46:59.495-07:00Iguazu'<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitfOp7HUgI2FyMf6xbEQsg_nkylE76maJq2UnaPv0j3A1CQnjX6aS_bddIBnRivkZCIt6CtoILN-AV7bre6Hqr45CWfS2blpZTOY25S4DDUQlBOLtYVHFxHi2rs97PUcH1zJcMWV6vPyYA/s1600-h/iguazu2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitfOp7HUgI2FyMf6xbEQsg_nkylE76maJq2UnaPv0j3A1CQnjX6aS_bddIBnRivkZCIt6CtoILN-AV7bre6Hqr45CWfS2blpZTOY25S4DDUQlBOLtYVHFxHi2rs97PUcH1zJcMWV6vPyYA/s320/iguazu2.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089075388199873458" /></a><br /><br /><a href="#ITALIAN12"> <b>(in italiano)</b></a><br /><br />This weekend we were at Iguazu' Falls (having successfully re-entered Brazil with a valid visa, a visit to the federal police will now completely eliminate this problem). The Falls, the second biggest in the world after Victoria Falls in Africa, are at the border between Argentina and Brazil, only 5 km upstream of the triple border with Paraguay. As in Niagara Falls, the Parana' river waters are 90% redirected through Lake Itaipu and electricity generating turbines. Itaipu is the biggest hydroelectric plant in the world.<br /><br />We arrived on a Friday afternoon via Curitiba, having gotten out of Rio without trouble despite it being the day the Pan Am games started. In Foz do Iguazu', the city on the Brazilian side, we took a couple of buses to get to the border with Argentina, and from the border we took a taxi to the hotel. By now it was mid afternoon and so we walked the streets of Puerto Iguazu'. It proved an interesting experience. The place, although quite a bit South of here, is still tropical, with banana trees ubiquitous in yards and papaya trees dominating the roadsides. There are also caymans in the Parana'. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirNaTkJlLwnzu32OCQd7a5zjjxGcuCeBHjWrdZiBN79qFtBcCd-gVBxeEeq_M1Qbt62_STXTfE_toReKhGjOX-6gAd1YbwKdK5vo_bNWQS2li-YAicomuplG2U8vUnY8GZl0n6zzriuglc/s1600-h/puerto_iguazu.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirNaTkJlLwnzu32OCQd7a5zjjxGcuCeBHjWrdZiBN79qFtBcCd-gVBxeEeq_M1Qbt62_STXTfE_toReKhGjOX-6gAd1YbwKdK5vo_bNWQS2li-YAicomuplG2U8vUnY8GZl0n6zzriuglc/s200/puerto_iguazu.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089076693869931458" /></a>Very heavy rain had ended shortly before we arrived, which had washed soil (red clay) all over town. The red hue, coupled with overcast skies, gave the city a gloomy appearance, reinforced by the usual concrete, discolored by moisture, typical of tropical places, and by the very rusted cars. Maria declared Argentina the gloomiest place on Earth (the day after, we saw that red clay on a sunny day is actually quite nice).<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRNNafzsefrJVIXhe16rlgdz8AVQqKsm9nHa6C9hQwGLJzxx6ZxsxwXTij2W6EmC-5hIB0KStgITAOxoz985Ynj2D6BbMvDTC6UZXfSS8kP1nt5JTHEwi8IYLLeKohwf8yw5OnRYpTfrEm/s1600-h/salciato.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRNNafzsefrJVIXhe16rlgdz8AVQqKsm9nHa6C9hQwGLJzxx6ZxsxwXTij2W6EmC-5hIB0KStgITAOxoz985Ynj2D6BbMvDTC6UZXfSS8kP1nt5JTHEwi8IYLLeKohwf8yw5OnRYpTfrEm/s200/salciato.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089077252215679954" /></a><br />In fact Argentinians are quite nice, friendly, and not at all gloomy, as we will find out in a moment. Many of the streets were paved with local rock, which splits into pieces with jagged edges, which must be murder on tires. From the cracks between the stones the red clay oozes out. The place is a regular tourist trap, but because it is fairly large, so you can walk away from the hottest areas, and laid back, it is quite acceptable. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY5rJr3or22-M7Sw2do0oTx5tQ-brPd7I6U9WZGIYUq1sv9A7GSwky5uH2nHMSUznu69Hk3aptIXnNtz69FVe6YcqQfYYoR5UeqOrEn693vZBPcSm2KVX5k3tzv4IUU6X6ToM8g_3BlT4X/s1600-h/indio.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY5rJr3or22-M7Sw2do0oTx5tQ-brPd7I6U9WZGIYUq1sv9A7GSwky5uH2nHMSUznu69Hk3aptIXnNtz69FVe6YcqQfYYoR5UeqOrEn693vZBPcSm2KVX5k3tzv4IUU6X6ToM8g_3BlT4X/s200/indio.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089077535683521506" /></a><br />One notices right away that there is a significant part of the population which is indio and significantly poorer than the rest. Maria got to see a real tropical town. We ended in the Jacuzzi of the hotel, where we met two Argentinian families with whom we had dinner later. Seemingly, everyone understands some Italian and has Italian ancestors. We did work on our Spanish though.<br /><br />Monica got to see most of the Opening ceremony of the Pan Am on TV, while waiting for dinner, disappointed all the way that we were not there (only R20 to get into the Maracana' that night). It did go well. For dinner I tried the Argentinian steak, a bit disappointing because they did their best to cook it the American way (cream sauce, etc.). We drank Malbec, Argentinian of course, which is the variety du jour south of the equator (when we invited two colleagues for dinner, each brought a bottle of Malbec). It is a big wine, tannic and full bodied. We exchanged emails with the Argentinians, should we ever visit Cordoba or Santa Fe' we are all set. By the way, both of those towns are in the "pampa umida", from where the best beef comes.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMfGrE4PiQU6WrqeWTeuBRqO6FLyWuBXOGrPrsVhAu2TnvkHW0s-63T4n5tMs-7kpQM5Cf7qAKgcaQBr0cOuesmPQ4z9tdJCxCM419ajpbYJRojMfSsmGUzdRG07vUZB0sb4I2GB_Rzm1U/s1600-h/iguazu6.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMfGrE4PiQU6WrqeWTeuBRqO6FLyWuBXOGrPrsVhAu2TnvkHW0s-63T4n5tMs-7kpQM5Cf7qAKgcaQBr0cOuesmPQ4z9tdJCxCM419ajpbYJRojMfSsmGUzdRG07vUZB0sb4I2GB_Rzm1U/s200/iguazu6.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089078076849400818" /></a> The day after was spent at the Falls National Park. The Parana' broadens into a huge (a few miles wide) shallow floodplain just above the Falls. In the floodplain there are catwalks, hopping from island to island, and reaching the top of the Falls in a few spots. The falls are divided into a huge amphitheater on the Argentinian side and a narrow canyon on the Brazilian side, separated by an island. There are numerous side falls along the edge of the escarpment, totaling 200 separate streams. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3J-xDTCBC54EG_qrXjmDYZ6AUsi2_YrMFDK9uqQB_RQpZ82MTdvFiDWNAfKHGBY-aP_H8e6ne3ddp3ee7mReE2JqAehtSf0O2LLoEp8Eow4LeiqIxHJw3UeD3wcrhS6Ds_wB8csO8svoQ/s1600-h/iguazu7.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3J-xDTCBC54EG_qrXjmDYZ6AUsi2_YrMFDK9uqQB_RQpZ82MTdvFiDWNAfKHGBY-aP_H8e6ne3ddp3ee7mReE2JqAehtSf0O2LLoEp8Eow4LeiqIxHJw3UeD3wcrhS6Ds_wB8csO8svoQ/s200/iguazu7.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089078403266915330" /></a>A train takes you around the park. It is not an intimate experience, in the train, on the catwalks, on the trails, or anywhere in the park. We walked to the top of the Argentinian falls (<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MdVADMMfiSo">Garganta do Diablo video</a>), floated in the floodplain, spotting a cayman and a turtle, and went below the Falls, from where we took a boat that went repeatedly under the falls<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f11qTzUGnaQ">, see video</a> (we had ponchos that spared us from a complete soaking). The Parana' water is quite red from the local clay.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtGHPzD3kyMShirhav5bIOyhyjhDLWobzwOVVEsk4e-UJavHrLqKEmPs15C2pB_ffD2njf8qTgAyTGFFSHumrtOCDlIMQtRYdHDFG_lt8mcIQ6tfX28x913Ue8XkMHKxtywU2EIt10_FIx/s1600-h/pappagalli.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtGHPzD3kyMShirhav5bIOyhyjhDLWobzwOVVEsk4e-UJavHrLqKEmPs15C2pB_ffD2njf8qTgAyTGFFSHumrtOCDlIMQtRYdHDFG_lt8mcIQ6tfX28x913Ue8XkMHKxtywU2EIt10_FIx/s200/pappagalli.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089080593700236354" /></a> In the afternoon we crossed back into Brazil. We were pooped and Maria huddled up in the TV room, I had my hair and one month beard cut, and Monica relaxed too. The day after it was clear but not hot. Having had enough falls experience, we went to an extensive tropical bird exhibition where Maria managed, with much effort, to get a large Ara parrot on her arm. Many interesting birds. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhs80aNgprebAiIPfGerR8uIeggAeS54yTJ7bqvL8JI_lHusHZcoQU96zJ-hnCDxL8lDUE-LID0PISL6zSQXMg5Onjyk2i3gtdrudN8D-mvJ67X7S-ayTl_SR7ZY5XgffNn72P51hLxLdR/s1600-h/tucano.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhs80aNgprebAiIPfGerR8uIeggAeS54yTJ7bqvL8JI_lHusHZcoQU96zJ-hnCDxL8lDUE-LID0PISL6zSQXMg5Onjyk2i3gtdrudN8D-mvJ67X7S-ayTl_SR7ZY5XgffNn72P51hLxLdR/s200/tucano.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089080469146184754" /></a> From there we went straight to the airport, where our ticket would take us back to Rio via Congonhas, the site of yesterday's air disaster. Delays made us go back through Curitiba. A quick taxi run through the city got us home in time for the second half of the Copa America final. Brazil, a clear underdog, trounced Argentina 3-0. It looked like one of the good Italian teams, iron defense, flying lateral players, selfless passing, excellent field position and organization, lightning quick counterattacks, and my boy Riquelme fouled to the ground whenever he was threatening.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIqY2RCBQtyKIT48xrQwizbmhQV1FWJXk41wyhNHmiNNABrTPHSRVqoGwMo3E-oZKTtu6cw7DxJOea6ICpNiJtHEoVAssIAvn-he8Teb6i1jarntqZe1Hbv9SecCC-nawbw8He4JOyuIHb/s1600-h/flamingo.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIqY2RCBQtyKIT48xrQwizbmhQV1FWJXk41wyhNHmiNNABrTPHSRVqoGwMo3E-oZKTtu6cw7DxJOea6ICpNiJtHEoVAssIAvn-he8Teb6i1jarntqZe1Hbv9SecCC-nawbw8He4JOyuIHb/s320/flamingo.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089079945160174610" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitfOp7HUgI2FyMf6xbEQsg_nkylE76maJq2UnaPv0j3A1CQnjX6aS_bddIBnRivkZCIt6CtoILN-AV7bre6Hqr45CWfS2blpZTOY25S4DDUQlBOLtYVHFxHi2rs97PUcH1zJcMWV6vPyYA/s1600-h/iguazu2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitfOp7HUgI2FyMf6xbEQsg_nkylE76maJq2UnaPv0j3A1CQnjX6aS_bddIBnRivkZCIt6CtoILN-AV7bre6Hqr45CWfS2blpZTOY25S4DDUQlBOLtYVHFxHi2rs97PUcH1zJcMWV6vPyYA/s320/iguazu2.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089075388199873458" /></a><br /><br /><a name="ITALIAN12"></a><br /><br />Questo weekend eravamo alle cascate Iguazu' (essendo rientrati in Brasile con un visto valido, una visita alla polizia federale ora risolvera' completamente i nostri problemi). Le cascate, le seconde piu' grandi del mondo dopo le cascate Victoria in Africa, sono al confine tra Argentina e Brasile, e solo 5km a monte del confine triplo col Paraguay. Come alle cascate del Niagara, il 90% dell' acqua del fiume Parana' e' deviata attraverso il lago Itaipu e le sue turbine elettriche. Itaipu e' la centrale elettrica piu' grande del mondo.<br /><br />Siamo arrivati di venerdi' pomeriggio via Curitiba, uscendo da Rio senza problemi nonostante l' inizio dei Giochi Pan Am la sera stessa. In Foz do Iguazu', la citta' dalla parte brasiliana, abbiamo preso un paio di bus fino alla frontiera, e da li' un taxi fino all' hotel. A questo punto era meta' pomeriggio per cui siamo andati in giro per Puerto Iguazu'. Una esperienza interessante. La regione, nonoostante sia molto piu' a sud di qui, e' ancora molto tropicale, con banani dappertutto nei cortili e alberelli di papaya che dominano la vegetazione lungo le strade. Ci sono anche caimani nel Parana'. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirNaTkJlLwnzu32OCQd7a5zjjxGcuCeBHjWrdZiBN79qFtBcCd-gVBxeEeq_M1Qbt62_STXTfE_toReKhGjOX-6gAd1YbwKdK5vo_bNWQS2li-YAicomuplG2U8vUnY8GZl0n6zzriuglc/s1600-h/puerto_iguazu.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirNaTkJlLwnzu32OCQd7a5zjjxGcuCeBHjWrdZiBN79qFtBcCd-gVBxeEeq_M1Qbt62_STXTfE_toReKhGjOX-6gAd1YbwKdK5vo_bNWQS2li-YAicomuplG2U8vUnY8GZl0n6zzriuglc/s200/puerto_iguazu.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089076693869931458" /></a>C'era stata pioggia battente giusto prima che arrivassimo, che aveva preso su la terra rossa locale dappertutto in citta'. La tinta rossa, insieme al cielo nuvoloso, dava un aspetto funebre alla citta', rinforzato dal solito cemento delle zone tropicali, macchiato di umidita', e le macchine arrugginite. Maria dichiaro' che l' Argentina era il posto piu' funereo del mondo.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRNNafzsefrJVIXhe16rlgdz8AVQqKsm9nHa6C9hQwGLJzxx6ZxsxwXTij2W6EmC-5hIB0KStgITAOxoz985Ynj2D6BbMvDTC6UZXfSS8kP1nt5JTHEwi8IYLLeKohwf8yw5OnRYpTfrEm/s1600-h/salciato.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRNNafzsefrJVIXhe16rlgdz8AVQqKsm9nHa6C9hQwGLJzxx6ZxsxwXTij2W6EmC-5hIB0KStgITAOxoz985Ynj2D6BbMvDTC6UZXfSS8kP1nt5JTHEwi8IYLLeKohwf8yw5OnRYpTfrEm/s200/salciato.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089077252215679954" /></a> Infatti gli argentini sono molto carini, e per nulla funebri, come vedremo fra poco. Molte delle strade della citta' avevano pave' fatto con roccia locale, che si rompe in pezzi con angoli molto affilati, che devono essere tremendi per le gomme. Dagli anfratti fra le pietre la terra rossa esce. La citta' e' una regolare trappola per turisti, ma e' grande, cosicche' uno riesce ad andare via dalla calca, e tranquilla, e non male in complesso. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY5rJr3or22-M7Sw2do0oTx5tQ-brPd7I6U9WZGIYUq1sv9A7GSwky5uH2nHMSUznu69Hk3aptIXnNtz69FVe6YcqQfYYoR5UeqOrEn693vZBPcSm2KVX5k3tzv4IUU6X6ToM8g_3BlT4X/s1600-h/indio.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY5rJr3or22-M7Sw2do0oTx5tQ-brPd7I6U9WZGIYUq1sv9A7GSwky5uH2nHMSUznu69Hk3aptIXnNtz69FVe6YcqQfYYoR5UeqOrEn693vZBPcSm2KVX5k3tzv4IUU6X6ToM8g_3BlT4X/s200/indio.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089077535683521506" /></a><br />Si nota immediatamente la presenza di un sacco di indios, significativamente piu' poveri del resto. Maria ha visto una vera citta' tropicale. Siamo finiti nella Jacuzzi dell' hotel, dove abbiamo conosciuto due famiglie argentine con cui abbiamo fatto cena piu' tardi. Tutti parlano un po' d' italiano e hanno avi italiani apparentemente. Abbiamo comunque parlato molto spagnolo.<br /><br />Monica e' riuscita a vedere la piu' parte della cerimonia d' apertura dei pan Am alla TV, mentre aspettavamo l' ora di cena, lamentandosi che non eravamo la' (solo R20 per entrare al Maracana' quella sera). E' stata infatti una bella cerimonia. Per cena ho provato una bistecca argentina, un poco deludente perche' hanno fatto del loro meglio per cuocerlo all' americana (salsa di panna, etc). Abbiamo bevuto una bottiglia di Malbec, argentino naturalmente, che e' la varieta' di moda a sud dell' equatore (quando invitammo due colleghi a cena, ognuno porto' indipendentemente una bottiglia di Malbec). E' un vinone tannico. Abbiamo scambiato emails con gli argentini, se dobbiamo mai visitare Cordoba o Santa Fe' siamo a posto. Sono nella pampa umida, da cui viene la carne migliore.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMfGrE4PiQU6WrqeWTeuBRqO6FLyWuBXOGrPrsVhAu2TnvkHW0s-63T4n5tMs-7kpQM5Cf7qAKgcaQBr0cOuesmPQ4z9tdJCxCM419ajpbYJRojMfSsmGUzdRG07vUZB0sb4I2GB_Rzm1U/s1600-h/iguazu6.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMfGrE4PiQU6WrqeWTeuBRqO6FLyWuBXOGrPrsVhAu2TnvkHW0s-63T4n5tMs-7kpQM5Cf7qAKgcaQBr0cOuesmPQ4z9tdJCxCM419ajpbYJRojMfSsmGUzdRG07vUZB0sb4I2GB_Rzm1U/s200/iguazu6.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089078076849400818" /></a> Il giorno dopo fu speso al Parco Nazionale. Il Parana' si allarga fino a diventare largo alcuni kilometri giusto sopra le cascate. Ci sono passerelle che vanno da isola a isola, fino a raggiungere la cima delle cascate in alcuni punti. Le cascate sono divise in un anfiteatro enorme da parte argentina, e un canyon stretto da parte brasiliana, separate da un' isola. Ci sono numerose cascate secondarie lungo l' orlo della scarpata, per un totale di 200 flussi separati. Un treno a scartamento ridotto ti porta in giro per il Parco. Non e' un' esperienza intima, nel treno, sulle passerelle, nei sentieri, o in qualsiasi altra parte del parco. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3J-xDTCBC54EG_qrXjmDYZ6AUsi2_YrMFDK9uqQB_RQpZ82MTdvFiDWNAfKHGBY-aP_H8e6ne3ddp3ee7mReE2JqAehtSf0O2LLoEp8Eow4LeiqIxHJw3UeD3wcrhS6Ds_wB8csO8svoQ/s1600-h/iguazu7.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3J-xDTCBC54EG_qrXjmDYZ6AUsi2_YrMFDK9uqQB_RQpZ82MTdvFiDWNAfKHGBY-aP_H8e6ne3ddp3ee7mReE2JqAehtSf0O2LLoEp8Eow4LeiqIxHJw3UeD3wcrhS6Ds_wB8csO8svoQ/s200/iguazu7.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089078403266915330" /></a> Siamo andati in cima alle cascate argentine, alla <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MdVADMMfiSo">video di Garganta do Diablo</a>, siamo discesi su un canale secondario sopra le cascate in canotto, riuscendo a vedere un caimano e una tartaruga, e siamo andati sotto le cascate, dove una barca ci ha portato ripetutamente sotto le cascate, <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f11qTzUGnaQ">vedi video</a> (avevamo dei poncho che ci hanno risparmiato una bagnata totale). L' acqua del Parana' e' rossa per via della terra locale.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtGHPzD3kyMShirhav5bIOyhyjhDLWobzwOVVEsk4e-UJavHrLqKEmPs15C2pB_ffD2njf8qTgAyTGFFSHumrtOCDlIMQtRYdHDFG_lt8mcIQ6tfX28x913Ue8XkMHKxtywU2EIt10_FIx/s1600-h/pappagalli.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtGHPzD3kyMShirhav5bIOyhyjhDLWobzwOVVEsk4e-UJavHrLqKEmPs15C2pB_ffD2njf8qTgAyTGFFSHumrtOCDlIMQtRYdHDFG_lt8mcIQ6tfX28x913Ue8XkMHKxtywU2EIt10_FIx/s200/pappagalli.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089080593700236354" /></a> Nel pomeriggio siamo rientrati in Brasile. Eravamo stanchi e Maria si e' ritirata nella sala TV, io sono andato dal barbiere per barba e capelli, e Monica pure si e' rilassata. Il giorno dopo era senza una nuvola ma non caldo. Avendo avuto abbastanza esperienza delle cascate, siamo andati a una mostra di uccelli tropicali dove Maria, con molto sforzo, e' riuscita ad avere un'ara (un tipo di pappagallo) blu sull' avambraccio. Molti uccelli interessanti. Da li' siamo andati dritti all' aereoporto. Il nostro biglietto ci riportava a Rio via Congonhas, l' aereoporto del disastro aereo di ieri. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhs80aNgprebAiIPfGerR8uIeggAeS54yTJ7bqvL8JI_lHusHZcoQU96zJ-hnCDxL8lDUE-LID0PISL6zSQXMg5Onjyk2i3gtdrudN8D-mvJ67X7S-ayTl_SR7ZY5XgffNn72P51hLxLdR/s1600-h/tucano.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhs80aNgprebAiIPfGerR8uIeggAeS54yTJ7bqvL8JI_lHusHZcoQU96zJ-hnCDxL8lDUE-LID0PISL6zSQXMg5Onjyk2i3gtdrudN8D-mvJ67X7S-ayTl_SR7ZY5XgffNn72P51hLxLdR/s200/tucano.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089080469146184754" /></a> Ritardi ci hanno fatto tornare via Curitiba. Una corsa veloce in taxi attraverso Rio ci ha portato a casa in tempo per il secondo tempo della finale della Copa America. Il Brasile, chiaramente sfavorito, ha vinto castigando l' Argentina 3-0. Brasile sembrava una delle buone squadre italiane, difesa di ferro, giocatori laterali velocissimi, buoni passaggi, eccellente posizione in campo, contropiedi fulminanti, e il mio favorito Riquelme a terra ogni volta che toccava palla.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIqY2RCBQtyKIT48xrQwizbmhQV1FWJXk41wyhNHmiNNABrTPHSRVqoGwMo3E-oZKTtu6cw7DxJOea6ICpNiJtHEoVAssIAvn-he8Teb6i1jarntqZe1Hbv9SecCC-nawbw8He4JOyuIHb/s1600-h/flamingo.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIqY2RCBQtyKIT48xrQwizbmhQV1FWJXk41wyhNHmiNNABrTPHSRVqoGwMo3E-oZKTtu6cw7DxJOea6ICpNiJtHEoVAssIAvn-he8Teb6i1jarntqZe1Hbv9SecCC-nawbw8He4JOyuIHb/s320/flamingo.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089079945160174610" /></a>Monica, Maria, Giovannihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10405831812151522517noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2104461867688933676.post-62084856234176802922007-07-16T18:48:00.000-07:002007-08-13T17:49:15.458-07:00Ilha Grande<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHeu7Wxw8Dg3eLDY8L653jr1nzTuVNJFnyaaY1rXlxjxc4QXpI-4tap7DUjao6Gvz9bxb8NbJ70IlflwNCifkWgZQpsE5OfkFAWs5pffKEpQalPDVnUYHVJ77MTLjG2GGx5XaQ9ZTaaXvk/s1600-h/ilha_grande.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHeu7Wxw8Dg3eLDY8L653jr1nzTuVNJFnyaaY1rXlxjxc4QXpI-4tap7DUjao6Gvz9bxb8NbJ70IlflwNCifkWgZQpsE5OfkFAWs5pffKEpQalPDVnUYHVJ77MTLjG2GGx5XaQ9ZTaaXvk/s320/ilha_grande.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089765604473639282" /></a><br /><br /><a href="#ITALIAN11"> <b>(in italiano)</b></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQn2O0iyKBdab6VmkRwXhYVUmM657EyZtM5Zp_zFgIh2mQ24iNaMyZ1RvlctGZ2xj3-LFnhjm5Qi5Qp-Eyxptzc1-N8tqSqLz3D644-_bca6iOhLiarZGjP1932_I_FMbkyGuWIBT2W2lK/s1600-h/spiaggia.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQn2O0iyKBdab6VmkRwXhYVUmM657EyZtM5Zp_zFgIh2mQ24iNaMyZ1RvlctGZ2xj3-LFnhjm5Qi5Qp-Eyxptzc1-N8tqSqLz3D644-_bca6iOhLiarZGjP1932_I_FMbkyGuWIBT2W2lK/s200/spiaggia.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089775289624891906" /></a> We went to Ilha Grande the 4th of July weekend. The island is about as big as Isola d' Elba in the Mediterranean, and has been kept free of development by a prison that was dismantled only a few years back. Before then, you had to have a permit to go to the island. We did see some of the prison buildings on the ocean facing the breath-taking beach of Lopes Mendes (see them hiding among the vegetation in the picture). The island was big enough that plenty of prisoners could escape and live off the land indefinitely. There are coconuts, bamboo groves, and little orchards (bananeiros) all over, and just like on mainland, there are plenty of weedy papaya trees.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcIj1xL5WY-oV7HBbGdbX_uQBTc0qHjFr7NcJbMWqTbL77_dZVUxRIM0ZL7MIAnDD3F12TEyrOes4fqz9Hp7yaI5CKEgPYlcz_wk4dE20Bs6v1ulS0MFSkb88-Mgi6EJTAO0Kxg-BQNRnB/s1600-h/forest.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcIj1xL5WY-oV7HBbGdbX_uQBTc0qHjFr7NcJbMWqTbL77_dZVUxRIM0ZL7MIAnDD3F12TEyrOes4fqz9Hp7yaI5CKEgPYlcz_wk4dE20Bs6v1ulS0MFSkb88-Mgi6EJTAO0Kxg-BQNRnB/s200/forest.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089769620268061074" /></a> The island is a tropical paradise. Very mountainous and completely forested, except where the slopes turn into granite cliffs, some 120 km from Rio and some 10 km from the coast, with a beautiful view of the Brazilian headlands (see picture below), it is lightly inhabited, with only one settlement of note, Abrao, where we stayed. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpj4-FSBsFCL2ogUzOfULOttXGhoQuvDMSxuKACPVN3p-BGB9BCITIgLIUlfUaP10WuvyspKFQj7kRehB6krBQF_uN4XESUMyvLm-YQJLIwNkXDPCol0QhJxTxXYtjQdahhh76jz-7Qi9z/s1600-h/cactus.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpj4-FSBsFCL2ogUzOfULOttXGhoQuvDMSxuKACPVN3p-BGB9BCITIgLIUlfUaP10WuvyspKFQj7kRehB6krBQF_uN4XESUMyvLm-YQJLIwNkXDPCol0QhJxTxXYtjQdahhh76jz-7Qi9z/s200/cactus.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089769903735902626" /></a> Most of the coastline is rocky, with slabs of stone washed by waves and vegetation clinging to inches of topsoil. We saw amazing trees seemingly growing out of sheer rock. But, it rains, the sun shines, and plants will exploit any crack in the rock to grow. There are perhaps 20 small and medium beaches at the bottom of bays.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHS-ESnYkWZRBK5SoXhAA-sIxLrshZo82IwAvdE1g73hSQDLR3-oHOMh-fjDJGvp0-25rth2i1aMIq98b0h_H0oyYVMN5dS-mcFJ2wOO9LJp3w8nHQySYaViGXOutE_RM9Jj7S7vPYSbbl/s1600-h/posada.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHS-ESnYkWZRBK5SoXhAA-sIxLrshZo82IwAvdE1g73hSQDLR3-oHOMh-fjDJGvp0-25rth2i1aMIq98b0h_H0oyYVMN5dS-mcFJ2wOO9LJp3w8nHQySYaViGXOutE_RM9Jj7S7vPYSbbl/s200/posada.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089770930233086402" /></a> We left Rio on a Friday night, and after an adventurous trip by bus (the bus broke down in a bad part of Rio, and they locked us in while another bus came to pick us up) we got to the ferry in Mangaratiba at 10pm. After a 80 minutes crossing, on a ferry full of bouncy brazilians, we walked uphill with our luggage to the nice <a href="http://www.ilhagrande.org/sys/s.ig?a=52&p=26">Posada Cachoeira</a>, well above Abrao but much calmer. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK8MuPIuCJDikFhYhBsvjP_I-dIBK_5Rfutb-n-jSeLWDam0Ec6RMuH_R-GPOIW12kFSjlHoBecFMkzCyVzz_cejE5cnLXuKKy_VMpzcnZCtby9tEobuA7N9oT8Dpr5sndznEUvTtx71Or/s1600-h/amaca_gatti.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK8MuPIuCJDikFhYhBsvjP_I-dIBK_5Rfutb-n-jSeLWDam0Ec6RMuH_R-GPOIW12kFSjlHoBecFMkzCyVzz_cejE5cnLXuKKy_VMpzcnZCtby9tEobuA7N9oT8Dpr5sndznEUvTtx71Or/s200/amaca_gatti.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089771063377072594" /></a> In Abrao by the pier, a late Festa Junina was roaring, with music, dozens of food stands, and lots of people dancing. Maria awoke from her sleepiness and urged us to stay. Our hosts were Klaus, from near Frankfurt, and his brazilian wife Teresa. They led us to a nice bungalow where we sat on the porch surrounded by some of the 11 cats living there before heading in for the night.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs5rDdiMa9DMtr9JzjdlKKhbQImWDmk58Mi41dXGajdd1-Cgx1PvAfkpQfklUjIYWreuELwHbl27iqVIPT0ALrvScqpYlvmoGbY521uC6fKzpBXy1EtOmZFT0lJ8opc94yCDPmJvZaAM3f/s1600-h/barca.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs5rDdiMa9DMtr9JzjdlKKhbQImWDmk58Mi41dXGajdd1-Cgx1PvAfkpQfklUjIYWreuELwHbl27iqVIPT0ALrvScqpYlvmoGbY521uC6fKzpBXy1EtOmZFT0lJ8opc94yCDPmJvZaAM3f/s200/barca.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089773008997257698" /></a> The next day was all about a boat trip along the land-facing coastline, to various spots (swimming with fish, large starfish on sandy bottom, the whole typical tour). <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgespHLSI4r70Mb1R3embiQEWeHt-MZqEV-66mL9nu5d-IIQN72q2bq7Hy_5ETXBbVeSbTXeg9DcfQuTkVu08_S6MiZHItU_B1aps2mPxJzL0vBDSRhcorOxJS9b7e1MmyNsdIpdCtry1-P/s1600-h/spiaggia.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgespHLSI4r70Mb1R3embiQEWeHt-MZqEV-66mL9nu5d-IIQN72q2bq7Hy_5ETXBbVeSbTXeg9DcfQuTkVu08_S6MiZHItU_B1aps2mPxJzL0vBDSRhcorOxJS9b7e1MmyNsdIpdCtry1-P/s200/spiaggia.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089773279580197362" /></a> Not an intimate experience as, for example, in the swimming-with-fish spot there were maybe 15 boats, each with 20 tourists on. Both days it was very warm, perhaps 90F, and the sun was strong. At night, we had a nice pizza from a wood oven, a great caipirinha from one of the stands, and assorted, 100% sugar, true brazilian sweets from another stand (sugar here costs R1/kg).<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDWvAlkgpo6KX6F8ysKiRrXVPag-WSxFTwxBWwF0Hq5skh-Lz81bOTe7NteLXhrogym-ejY_BUERT0FatVIhzssSYtpq_skYhOTKjzNsGVFOaBgrtlcAhzYip8x1pP1VcZcesGzSCa2heR/s1600-h/molo.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDWvAlkgpo6KX6F8ysKiRrXVPag-WSxFTwxBWwF0Hq5skh-Lz81bOTe7NteLXhrogym-ejY_BUERT0FatVIhzssSYtpq_skYhOTKjzNsGVFOaBgrtlcAhzYip8x1pP1VcZcesGzSCa2heR/s200/molo.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089775770661229074" /></a> The last day we went to an ocean-facing beach, Lopez Mendes, <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vPiEg0Dr8qg">see video</a>, a beatiful place. The boats do not dare get out of the island shadow, and drop you just before the last headland. You cross a peninsula on foot (about 20 mins) to get to the beach, which is about 2km long and half moon shaped. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuHR1M8FB1mGW5Dowu6wANwWDv0UqhoehJxQSQ-s9UW2VDfM4TGbdyMog3dhxQ4dpgcBhFI29y1VgrxG-U-5R7Zo4XV6PGzH1Tw_tEPYfgzPWAci0IcdiOoUc9m2zUWkyUKdu2aN3-kHFj/s1600-h/lopez_mendes.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuHR1M8FB1mGW5Dowu6wANwWDv0UqhoehJxQSQ-s9UW2VDfM4TGbdyMog3dhxQ4dpgcBhFI29y1VgrxG-U-5R7Zo4XV6PGzH1Tw_tEPYfgzPWAci0IcdiOoUc9m2zUWkyUKdu2aN3-kHFj/s200/lopez_mendes.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089766283078472066" /></a> The crowd is mostly brazilian but there were a lot of french, apparently the only europeans who have discovered this place. We also met an italian family, he is sailing a boat for a billionaire who wants to sail around the world without actually doing it, and is currently stuck in Angra dos Reis waiting to fix the boat. The currents in the water were quite treacherous, like in Leblon, and I had to work to bring Maria back after a wave-banging session.<br /><br />Coming back (the ferry was full of even bouncier brazilians) we hooked up with a van which was going straight to Rio. We saved no time because we got stuck in traffic, but once out of the traffic the driver turned out to be a mad driver who delivered us to Leblon at record speed. Get to Ilha Grande while it lasts, because they are developing it reasonably, but the attraction is strong and ultimately tourist traffic will increase.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhF1M1V8SFX7KcNA-K-SYXECXOHvdZKfdU2UlQkbSsU2FFbVNLjttpjLh0zgK7itcBxv472cukva3iq4fUc3TcPjW5t7gfpHWtMBFXGCZHrMXmmXsYbSrFhAM_pKyHyxGMUKNAzwwbQDd3/s1600-h/coastline.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhF1M1V8SFX7KcNA-K-SYXECXOHvdZKfdU2UlQkbSsU2FFbVNLjttpjLh0zgK7itcBxv472cukva3iq4fUc3TcPjW5t7gfpHWtMBFXGCZHrMXmmXsYbSrFhAM_pKyHyxGMUKNAzwwbQDd3/s320/coastline.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089770170023874994" /></a><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHeu7Wxw8Dg3eLDY8L653jr1nzTuVNJFnyaaY1rXlxjxc4QXpI-4tap7DUjao6Gvz9bxb8NbJ70IlflwNCifkWgZQpsE5OfkFAWs5pffKEpQalPDVnUYHVJ77MTLjG2GGx5XaQ9ZTaaXvk/s1600-h/ilha_grande.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHeu7Wxw8Dg3eLDY8L653jr1nzTuVNJFnyaaY1rXlxjxc4QXpI-4tap7DUjao6Gvz9bxb8NbJ70IlflwNCifkWgZQpsE5OfkFAWs5pffKEpQalPDVnUYHVJ77MTLjG2GGx5XaQ9ZTaaXvk/s320/ilha_grande.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089765604473639282" /></a><br /><br /><a name="ITALIAN11"></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQn2O0iyKBdab6VmkRwXhYVUmM657EyZtM5Zp_zFgIh2mQ24iNaMyZ1RvlctGZ2xj3-LFnhjm5Qi5Qp-Eyxptzc1-N8tqSqLz3D644-_bca6iOhLiarZGjP1932_I_FMbkyGuWIBT2W2lK/s1600-h/spiaggia.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQn2O0iyKBdab6VmkRwXhYVUmM657EyZtM5Zp_zFgIh2mQ24iNaMyZ1RvlctGZ2xj3-LFnhjm5Qi5Qp-Eyxptzc1-N8tqSqLz3D644-_bca6iOhLiarZGjP1932_I_FMbkyGuWIBT2W2lK/s200/spiaggia.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089775289624891906" /></a> Siamo andati a Ilha Grande il weekend scorso. L' isola e' grande circa come l' Isola d' Elba, e e' rimasta in uno stato naturale per via di un penitenziario che e' stato chiuso solo pochi anni fa. Prima, uno poteva andare sull' isola solo con un permesso. Abbiamo visto alcuni edifici rimasti della prigione sulla bellissima spiaggia Lopes Mendes che fronteggia l' oceano (nascosti tra la vegetazione nella foto). L' isola e' grande abbastanza che molti prigionieri riuscivano a scappare ea vivere per anni nella foresta. Ci sono cocchi, bamboo, e piccoli frutteti (bananeti) dappertutto, e come sulla terraferma, ci sono un sacco di alberelli di papaya lungo i sentieri.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcIj1xL5WY-oV7HBbGdbX_uQBTc0qHjFr7NcJbMWqTbL77_dZVUxRIM0ZL7MIAnDD3F12TEyrOes4fqz9Hp7yaI5CKEgPYlcz_wk4dE20Bs6v1ulS0MFSkb88-Mgi6EJTAO0Kxg-BQNRnB/s1600-h/forest.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcIj1xL5WY-oV7HBbGdbX_uQBTc0qHjFr7NcJbMWqTbL77_dZVUxRIM0ZL7MIAnDD3F12TEyrOes4fqz9Hp7yaI5CKEgPYlcz_wk4dE20Bs6v1ulS0MFSkb88-Mgi6EJTAO0Kxg-BQNRnB/s200/forest.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089769620268061074" /></a> L' isola e' un paradiso tropicale. Molto montagnosa e completamente coperta di foresta, eccetto dove la pendenza e' troppo forte, e' a circa 120 km da Rio e 10 km dalla costa, con una vista bellissima delle montagne costiere della terraferma (vedi foto in basso). E' quasi disabitata, con un solo villaggio, Abrao, dove abbiamo dormito. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpj4-FSBsFCL2ogUzOfULOttXGhoQuvDMSxuKACPVN3p-BGB9BCITIgLIUlfUaP10WuvyspKFQj7kRehB6krBQF_uN4XESUMyvLm-YQJLIwNkXDPCol0QhJxTxXYtjQdahhh76jz-7Qi9z/s1600-h/cactus.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpj4-FSBsFCL2ogUzOfULOttXGhoQuvDMSxuKACPVN3p-BGB9BCITIgLIUlfUaP10WuvyspKFQj7kRehB6krBQF_uN4XESUMyvLm-YQJLIwNkXDPCol0QhJxTxXYtjQdahhh76jz-7Qi9z/s200/cactus.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089769903735902626" /></a> La maggior parte della costa e' rocciosa, con enormi lastre di roccia lavate dalle onde e vegetazione che e' abbarbicata a pochi centimetri di suolo. Ci sono alberi incredibili che sembrano uscire dalle rocce. Piove, il sole splende, e le piante struttano ogni anfratto per crescere. Ci sono circa 20 spiagge piccole e medie in fondo a varie baie.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHS-ESnYkWZRBK5SoXhAA-sIxLrshZo82IwAvdE1g73hSQDLR3-oHOMh-fjDJGvp0-25rth2i1aMIq98b0h_H0oyYVMN5dS-mcFJ2wOO9LJp3w8nHQySYaViGXOutE_RM9Jj7S7vPYSbbl/s1600-h/posada.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHS-ESnYkWZRBK5SoXhAA-sIxLrshZo82IwAvdE1g73hSQDLR3-oHOMh-fjDJGvp0-25rth2i1aMIq98b0h_H0oyYVMN5dS-mcFJ2wOO9LJp3w8nHQySYaViGXOutE_RM9Jj7S7vPYSbbl/s200/posada.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089770930233086402" /></a> Siamo partiti da Rio un venerdi' sera, e dopo un viaggio avventuroso in corriera (la corriera si e' rotta in una parte brutta di Rio, e ci hanno chiuso dentro intanto che aspettavamo la corriera di ricambio) siamo arrivati al traghetto a Mangaratiba alle 22. Dopo una traversata di 80 minuti, su un traghetto pieno di brasiliani allegri, siamo saliti a piedi fino alla bella <a href="http://www.ilhagrande.org/sys/s.ig?a=52&p=26">Posada Cachoeira</a>, ben sopra Abrao e molto piu' tranquilla. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK8MuPIuCJDikFhYhBsvjP_I-dIBK_5Rfutb-n-jSeLWDam0Ec6RMuH_R-GPOIW12kFSjlHoBecFMkzCyVzz_cejE5cnLXuKKy_VMpzcnZCtby9tEobuA7N9oT8Dpr5sndznEUvTtx71Or/s1600-h/amaca_gatti.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK8MuPIuCJDikFhYhBsvjP_I-dIBK_5Rfutb-n-jSeLWDam0Ec6RMuH_R-GPOIW12kFSjlHoBecFMkzCyVzz_cejE5cnLXuKKy_VMpzcnZCtby9tEobuA7N9oT8Dpr5sndznEUvTtx71Or/s200/amaca_gatti.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089771063377072594" /></a> In Abrao, vicino al molo, c' era una Festa Junina in ritardo, con musica, centinaia di persone che ballavano, e roba da mangiare. Maria si e' svegliata di colpo e ha cercato di farci rimanere. I nostri ospiti erano Klaus, da vicino a Francoforte, e la sua moglie brasiliana Teresa. Ci hanno portato a un bel bungalow dove ci siamo seduti sul portico con alcuni degli 11 gatti residenti prima di andare in camera per la notte.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs5rDdiMa9DMtr9JzjdlKKhbQImWDmk58Mi41dXGajdd1-Cgx1PvAfkpQfklUjIYWreuELwHbl27iqVIPT0ALrvScqpYlvmoGbY521uC6fKzpBXy1EtOmZFT0lJ8opc94yCDPmJvZaAM3f/s1600-h/barca.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs5rDdiMa9DMtr9JzjdlKKhbQImWDmk58Mi41dXGajdd1-Cgx1PvAfkpQfklUjIYWreuELwHbl27iqVIPT0ALrvScqpYlvmoGbY521uC6fKzpBXy1EtOmZFT0lJ8opc94yCDPmJvZaAM3f/s200/barca.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089773008997257698" /></a> Il giorno dopo e' stato speso per un viaggio in barca lungo la costa che da' verso la terraferma, siamo andati a vari punti (nuotare coi pesci, stelle marine su fondo sabbioso, tipico giro turistico). <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgespHLSI4r70Mb1R3embiQEWeHt-MZqEV-66mL9nu5d-IIQN72q2bq7Hy_5ETXBbVeSbTXeg9DcfQuTkVu08_S6MiZHItU_B1aps2mPxJzL0vBDSRhcorOxJS9b7e1MmyNsdIpdCtry1-P/s1600-h/spiaggia.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgespHLSI4r70Mb1R3embiQEWeHt-MZqEV-66mL9nu5d-IIQN72q2bq7Hy_5ETXBbVeSbTXeg9DcfQuTkVu08_S6MiZHItU_B1aps2mPxJzL0vBDSRhcorOxJS9b7e1MmyNsdIpdCtry1-P/s200/spiaggia.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089773279580197362" /></a> Non un' esperienza intima perche', per esempio, nel posto dei pesci c'erano altre 15 barche, ognuna con 20 turisti. Tutti e due i giorni e' stato caldo, circa 32C, e il sole era forte. A notte abbiamo mangiato pizza da forno a legna, una grande caipirinha da uno dei banchetti, e vari, 100% zucchero, veri dolci brasiliani da un altro banchetto (lo zucchero qui costa R1/kg).<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDWvAlkgpo6KX6F8ysKiRrXVPag-WSxFTwxBWwF0Hq5skh-Lz81bOTe7NteLXhrogym-ejY_BUERT0FatVIhzssSYtpq_skYhOTKjzNsGVFOaBgrtlcAhzYip8x1pP1VcZcesGzSCa2heR/s1600-h/molo.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDWvAlkgpo6KX6F8ysKiRrXVPag-WSxFTwxBWwF0Hq5skh-Lz81bOTe7NteLXhrogym-ejY_BUERT0FatVIhzssSYtpq_skYhOTKjzNsGVFOaBgrtlcAhzYip8x1pP1VcZcesGzSCa2heR/s200/molo.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089775770661229074" /></a> L' ultimo giorno siamo andati a una spiaggia che da' sull 'oceano, Lopez Mendes, <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vPiEg0Dr8qg">vedi video</a>, un posto magnifico. Le barche non osano uscire da dietro l' isola, e ti mollano giusto prima dell' ultimo promontorio. Si attraversa a piedi (20 minuti) per arrivare alla spiaggia, che e' circ a 2km e a forma di mezzaluna. I turisti sono quasi tutti brasiliani ma ci sono anche molti francesi, apparentemente i soli europei che hanno scoperto questo posto. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuHR1M8FB1mGW5Dowu6wANwWDv0UqhoehJxQSQ-s9UW2VDfM4TGbdyMog3dhxQ4dpgcBhFI29y1VgrxG-U-5R7Zo4XV6PGzH1Tw_tEPYfgzPWAci0IcdiOoUc9m2zUWkyUKdu2aN3-kHFj/s1600-h/lopez_mendes.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuHR1M8FB1mGW5Dowu6wANwWDv0UqhoehJxQSQ-s9UW2VDfM4TGbdyMog3dhxQ4dpgcBhFI29y1VgrxG-U-5R7Zo4XV6PGzH1Tw_tEPYfgzPWAci0IcdiOoUc9m2zUWkyUKdu2aN3-kHFj/s200/lopez_mendes.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089766283078472066" /></a> Abbiamo anche incontrato una famiglia italiana, lui sta guidando una barca intorno al mondo per un miliardario che vuol fare il giro del mondo in barca senza farlo veramente, e ora come ora e' bloccato ad Angra dos Reis in attesa di ripari. Le correnti in acqua erano pericolose, come a Leblon, e ho fatto fatica a riportare Maria in spiaggia dopo una sessione di tuffi nelle onde.<br /><br />Tornando (il traghetto era pieno di brasiliani ancora piu' allegri) ci siamo messi d' accordo con un minibus che andava dritto a casa. Non abbiamo risparmiato tempo, perche' c'era un ingorgo, tuttavia una volta fuori dall' ingorgo il guidatore si e' rivelato essere spericolato e ci ha portato a Leblon a tempo record. Andate a Ilha Grande finche' si puo', la stanno sviluppando ragionevolmente, ma l' attrazione e' forte e alla fine il traffico turistico crescera'.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhF1M1V8SFX7KcNA-K-SYXECXOHvdZKfdU2UlQkbSsU2FFbVNLjttpjLh0zgK7itcBxv472cukva3iq4fUc3TcPjW5t7gfpHWtMBFXGCZHrMXmmXsYbSrFhAM_pKyHyxGMUKNAzwwbQDd3/s1600-h/coastline.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhF1M1V8SFX7KcNA-K-SYXECXOHvdZKfdU2UlQkbSsU2FFbVNLjttpjLh0zgK7itcBxv472cukva3iq4fUc3TcPjW5t7gfpHWtMBFXGCZHrMXmmXsYbSrFhAM_pKyHyxGMUKNAzwwbQDd3/s320/coastline.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089770170023874994" /></a>Monica, Maria, Giovannihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10405831812151522517noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2104461867688933676.post-30311523602314809232007-07-09T16:44:00.000-07:002007-08-06T05:04:48.308-07:00The Pan Am games<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ6ZEj0xriy1VRgle0-BnA5pdwqPxAKchX0ulv5KYX5WiJ8RSXZvk_KJslZ_W4wnfNAM-UnMogYFfVKlJ4kca860KVApXKZ-ZiLeo4kcUoiDCPFpzA6Bxr3B6qeEVGiC05vNZM7x4dR0KE/s1600-h/monica_maria_pan.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ6ZEj0xriy1VRgle0-BnA5pdwqPxAKchX0ulv5KYX5WiJ8RSXZvk_KJslZ_W4wnfNAM-UnMogYFfVKlJ4kca860KVApXKZ-ZiLeo4kcUoiDCPFpzA6Bxr3B6qeEVGiC05vNZM7x4dR0KE/s320/monica_maria_pan.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5095554644863029842" /></a><br /><br /><a href="#ITALIAN10"> <b>(in italiano)</b></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgENO3CF7bVMEU3PQ7o-noxPxG6MRnxNxQ36IUJfXW3NQQV8s09UeMOoq3seKEXsZ0RdVTLTVKeQdVCwnQO65qAn3XtqPPob0s91X4Fck5sNir3Zay_6yFy6283m9DesBJvPn9OKsPpGDdk/s1600-h/pan_logo.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgENO3CF7bVMEU3PQ7o-noxPxG6MRnxNxQ36IUJfXW3NQQV8s09UeMOoq3seKEXsZ0RdVTLTVKeQdVCwnQO65qAn3XtqPPob0s91X4Fck5sNir3Zay_6yFy6283m9DesBJvPn9OKsPpGDdk/s200/pan_logo.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5095555546806162018" /></a> The <a href="ttp://www.rio2007.org.br/data/pages/8A488A8F12D856280112D876FFDA6E31.htm">Pan American</a> games are upon us. I first noticed the clock at the other end of Copa, right before I turn off towards the tunnel and Urca, marking 68 in early May (68 days before the start of the games). We are now down to 4. As all things in Brazil, it has been accompanied by a lot of overcharging the government, and a threatened strike by air controllers who are trying to make as much hay as possible out of the situation (a 33.5% increase, or they will strike starting two days before the games start), and last minute frenetic work. Wish us luck because we go to <a href="http://lifeinleblon.blogspot.com/2007_07_18_archive.html">Foz do Igassu</a> that day, to admire the falls and incidentally to step into Argentina and reenter, so that we have proper stamps on our passports.<br /><br />Right now there are all sorts of temporary structures going up on the beach, mostly in Copa but also in Ipanema (Leblon has been spared so far). There are crews coming and going in the bike lane, debris and fenced areas all over. The general test was last saturday when one of the Live Earth concerts took place on the Copa beach. 700,000 attended, Copa was closed from the beach to two blocks inland. We skipped town and went to <a href="http://lifeinleblon.blogspot.com/2007_07_16_archive.html">Ilha Grande</a> (the tropical paradise discussed in the next post), but unfortunately so did a lot of cariocas and we ran into a big traffic jam on the way back.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhklWwjSg7axn05b7GddQCH76hqVkuBoKaBOP9GzkmWwsq5jlBbAD-Kh0t7ecp0r2zx8-QqKLVMsDWuDnEGIHwylTRPOd63tJZ0rPj2FdsfOcfw5a9ueVg3aLH1xx8LCD9YpDme7t3ojiSV/s1600-h/viva_essa_energia.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhklWwjSg7axn05b7GddQCH76hqVkuBoKaBOP9GzkmWwsq5jlBbAD-Kh0t7ecp0r2zx8-QqKLVMsDWuDnEGIHwylTRPOd63tJZ0rPj2FdsfOcfw5a9ueVg3aLH1xx8LCD9YpDme7t3ojiSV/s200/viva_essa_energia.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5095556203936158322" /></a> So, overnight beer gardens, internet cafe's, music stages, and of course the beach volleyball stands are going up in Copa, on the beach and in the traffic island on Avenida Atlantica. There is a temporary overpass over the Avenida Atlantica which does not look like it would take really big crowds. The sidewalk along the beach is thick with people (it is thick regardless, but now it is thicker. The schools are also closed for 3 weeks). The weather has been beautiful, one glorious day following another for weeks now, so the cariocas have been out in numbers too. And then there are the street mimes, street musicians, and whatnot. In Ipanema a few commercials are being shot (on the beach of course), and I see the crews at work during my commute, setting screens and lights. Sand artists have done all sorts of sand sculptures, welcoming all to the Pan Ams. "Viva Essa Energia" (Live Its Energy), the Pan Am 2007 motto, is everywhere.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt2b8fFYGHFlHNHbfRXsCjO4nv0PxHmaj8tR1yyIgaQlJJEP29iUExkDzzKGMTnz2JqxupIEEh196A8Rae4MeAibZYeZtOPvI7fRnn0BJkXe53wa4qG2YO535CfMvH17cE6cW3eR66yUsd/s1600-h/gimnastics.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt2b8fFYGHFlHNHbfRXsCjO4nv0PxHmaj8tR1yyIgaQlJJEP29iUExkDzzKGMTnz2JqxupIEEh196A8Rae4MeAibZYeZtOPvI7fRnn0BJkXe53wa4qG2YO535CfMvH17cE6cW3eR66yUsd/s200/gimnastics.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5095551986278273570" /></a> Copa will be the site of beach volleyball, marathon swimming, and triathlon. The Lagoa, just behind our place, will have all the rowing races. Monica and Maria have tix for gymnastics and the volleyball finals, and the whole family will finally take an overdue pilgrimage to the Church of Football, the Maracana', for the football finals. Right now the Copa America is going on as well in Venezuela, with the semifinals tuesday and wednesday. I am watching it because I am very taken by the beauty of the game of Juan Riquelme of Argentina, certainly one of the top five players I have ever seen (I watched several games of him as he dragged a mediocre Boca Juniors team to the Copa Libertadores).<br /><br />Because of the Foz trip, we will miss the Opening Ceremony, but it is just as well, since the most notable event of it will be the thunderous booing of the american team (maybe if Blair and Olmert attend there will be some support in the stands. Certainly no local or Latin American will cheer them). Many cariocas dread the Pan Ams, and the long hours spent sitting in traffic in an already chaotic city. They dread the waste and corruption they have already engendered. But, they are upon us. <br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ6ZEj0xriy1VRgle0-BnA5pdwqPxAKchX0ulv5KYX5WiJ8RSXZvk_KJslZ_W4wnfNAM-UnMogYFfVKlJ4kca860KVApXKZ-ZiLeo4kcUoiDCPFpzA6Bxr3B6qeEVGiC05vNZM7x4dR0KE/s1600-h/monica_maria_pan.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ6ZEj0xriy1VRgle0-BnA5pdwqPxAKchX0ulv5KYX5WiJ8RSXZvk_KJslZ_W4wnfNAM-UnMogYFfVKlJ4kca860KVApXKZ-ZiLeo4kcUoiDCPFpzA6Bxr3B6qeEVGiC05vNZM7x4dR0KE/s320/monica_maria_pan.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5095554644863029842" /></a><br /><br /><a name="ITALIAN10"></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgENO3CF7bVMEU3PQ7o-noxPxG6MRnxNxQ36IUJfXW3NQQV8s09UeMOoq3seKEXsZ0RdVTLTVKeQdVCwnQO65qAn3XtqPPob0s91X4Fck5sNir3Zay_6yFy6283m9DesBJvPn9OKsPpGDdk/s1600-h/pan_logo.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgENO3CF7bVMEU3PQ7o-noxPxG6MRnxNxQ36IUJfXW3NQQV8s09UeMOoq3seKEXsZ0RdVTLTVKeQdVCwnQO65qAn3XtqPPob0s91X4Fck5sNir3Zay_6yFy6283m9DesBJvPn9OKsPpGDdk/s200/pan_logo.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5095555546806162018" /></a> I <a href="ttp://www.rio2007.org.br/data/pages/8A488A8F12D856280112D876FFDA6E31.htm">giochi panamericani</a> stanno per cominciare. Ho notato per la prima volta il tabellone luminoso dall' altra parte di Copa, giusto prima di girare per il tunnel e per Urca, che segnava 68 ai primi di maggio (68 giorni prima dell' inizio). Ora siamo a 4. Come tutto in Brasile, ha generato corruzione di ogni tipo, e uno sciopero dei controllori di volo che sperano di mungere la situazione il piu' possibile (un aumento del 33.5%, o loro scioperano a partire da due giorni prima dei Giochi). Speriamo bene perche' il giorno dell' inizio dei Giochi noi andiamo alle <a href="http://lifeinleblon.blogspot.com/2007_07_18_archive.html">Cascate dell' Igassu</a>, ad ammirare le cascate i incidentalmente per attraversare in Argentina e ottenere degli stampi appropriati nei nostri passaporti.<br /><br />Ora come ora ci sono ogni sorta di tendoni che vengono montati sulla spiaggia, per lo piu' in Copa ma anche a Ipanema (Leblon e' OK per ora). Ci sono equipaggi che vanno e vengono nella pista ciclabile, costruzione e aree recintate dappertutto. Il test generale e' stato sabato quando uno dei Live Earth concerts si e' svolto sulla spiaggia di Copa. 700000 spettatori sono arrivati, e Copa era chiusa dalla spiaggia a due isolati. Noi siamo andati via a <a href="http://lifeinleblon.blogspot.com/2007_07_16_archive.html">Ilha Grande</a> (il paradiso tropicale descritto nel prossimo post), ma sfortunatamente parecchi carioca hanno fatto la stessa cosa e ci siamo trovati in un ingorgo di 25 km sulla strada del ritorno.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhklWwjSg7axn05b7GddQCH76hqVkuBoKaBOP9GzkmWwsq5jlBbAD-Kh0t7ecp0r2zx8-QqKLVMsDWuDnEGIHwylTRPOd63tJZ0rPj2FdsfOcfw5a9ueVg3aLH1xx8LCD9YpDme7t3ojiSV/s1600-h/viva_essa_energia.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhklWwjSg7axn05b7GddQCH76hqVkuBoKaBOP9GzkmWwsq5jlBbAD-Kh0t7ecp0r2zx8-QqKLVMsDWuDnEGIHwylTRPOd63tJZ0rPj2FdsfOcfw5a9ueVg3aLH1xx8LCD9YpDme7t3ojiSV/s200/viva_essa_energia.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5095556203936158322" /></a> Quindi, dal giorno alla notte birrerie, Internet cafe's, palchi, e naturalmente gli spalti per il torneo di beach volleyball stanno spuntando sulla spiaggia e sullo spartitraffico dell' Avenida Atlantica. C'e' una passerella temporanea sull' Avenida che non sembra sara' capace di sostenere una folla veramente fitta. Il marciapiede lungo la spiaggia e' fitto di gente (e' sempre fitto, ma ora e' ancora piu' fitto). Le scuole sono chiuse per 3 settimane, e il tempo e' stato bellissimo, un giorno splendido dopo l' altro da settimane, e quindi i carioca sono fuori pure loro. E poi ci sono i mimi, i musicanti, e tutto il resto. In Ipanema stanno girando alcune pubblicita' (sulla spiaggia), e vedo gli equipaggi al lavoro quando passo, che preparano schermi e riflettori. Scultori della sabbia hanno fatto ogni tipo di scultura, che da' il benvenuto a tutti quelli dei Panams. "Viva Essa Energia" (Vivi La Sua Energia), il motto dei Pan Am 2007, e' dappertutto.<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt2b8fFYGHFlHNHbfRXsCjO4nv0PxHmaj8tR1yyIgaQlJJEP29iUExkDzzKGMTnz2JqxupIEEh196A8Rae4MeAibZYeZtOPvI7fRnn0BJkXe53wa4qG2YO535CfMvH17cE6cW3eR66yUsd/s1600-h/gimnastics.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt2b8fFYGHFlHNHbfRXsCjO4nv0PxHmaj8tR1yyIgaQlJJEP29iUExkDzzKGMTnz2JqxupIEEh196A8Rae4MeAibZYeZtOPvI7fRnn0BJkXe53wa4qG2YO535CfMvH17cE6cW3eR66yUsd/s200/gimnastics.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5095551986278273570" /></a> Copa sara' il sito del beach volleyball, maratona di nuoto, e triathlon. La Lagoa, giusto dietro al nostro appartamento, avra' tutte le gare di canottaggio. Monica e Maria hanno biglietti per ginnastica e le finali di pallavolo, e la famiglia intera andra' finalmente in pellegrinaggio alla Chiesa del Calcio, il MMaracana', per le finali di calcio. Ora come ora la Copa America e' in pieno svolgimento in Venezuela, con le semifinali martedi' e mercoledi'. Io guardo perche' sono molto impressionato da Juan Riquelme, certamente uno dei cinque migliori giocatori che abbia mai visto (ho visto diverse partite sue perche' ha trascinato una squadra mediocre come il Boca Junior alla Copa Libertadores).<br /><br />A causa del viaggio a Igassu', mancheremo la cerimonia di apertura, ma va bene cosi', dato che l' evento maggiore saranno i fischi che pioveranno sugli americani (forse se Blair e Olmet sono sugli spalti ci sara' un po' di supporto. Di sicuro nessuno locale o Latino). Molti carioca odiano l' idea dei Panam, le ore spese in ingorghi in una citta' che e' gia caotica. Odiano le spese e corruzione che i Giochi hanno gia' generato. Ma, stanno per arrivare.Monica, Maria, Giovannihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10405831812151522517noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2104461867688933676.post-33687194016506834212007-07-09T13:43:00.000-07:002007-07-11T11:34:33.902-07:00Rio's landscape<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiStMgVW_QccBuLSYsLxWHUUVZzI_yIp0VDsUb2bdo8hW_ROs8BRB2U5ZwJgKIcp0g594BG8zZ1va2b7PtsHV0Un27reogLY12poMFdf8LKjwvPEjrZ3cRJIJYkI9-AuyLi158YsJr4du3h/s1600-h/corcovado_pao.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiStMgVW_QccBuLSYsLxWHUUVZzI_yIp0VDsUb2bdo8hW_ROs8BRB2U5ZwJgKIcp0g594BG8zZ1va2b7PtsHV0Un27reogLY12poMFdf8LKjwvPEjrZ3cRJIJYkI9-AuyLi158YsJr4du3h/s320/corcovado_pao.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085991423403401570" /></a><br /><br /><a href="#ITALIAN9"> <b>(in italiano)</b></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga925X-IDPK4PA1WO0wuf_5eDBLgFQqb6RYKG3JTp4qpwdHjZZz4ynmETtF_pkKjS9QkpjxZym37z5JSE_ACkwlCyqGMDzWRyOlpU4ZAF01S-xH9jpUt1wehAOLSzoUNGnjQrxBttquHGc/s1600-h/granite.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga925X-IDPK4PA1WO0wuf_5eDBLgFQqb6RYKG3JTp4qpwdHjZZz4ynmETtF_pkKjS9QkpjxZym37z5JSE_ACkwlCyqGMDzWRyOlpU4ZAF01S-xH9jpUt1wehAOLSzoUNGnjQrxBttquHGc/s200/granite.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085992398360977778" /></a> Rio landscape is unique. Steep peaks dot it, which were formed when South America pushed off of Africa (or the other way around, if you insist on Newton's Third Law). The erosion from tropical rainfall keeps them sharp. The rocks are the same rocks that you find south at Ilha Grande, and in the back of Rio at Teresopolis. There is a lot of granite, the original mother rock, sandstone (sand pressed and heated) and quartz (sand pressed and heated a lot).<br /><br />Above the most central peak, called <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corcovado">Corcovado</a>, there is a huge statue of Jesus Christ, called the Redeemer and just voted to be one of the <a href="http://www.new7wonders.com/">seven marvels of the Modern World</a>, whatever that might mean. But the statue really dominates the city, visible from everywhere, my office, the apartment, the place where we meet our hiking group, E-V-E-R-Y-WHERE (you can see it emerging from the fog together with the Sugarloaf, in the picture above, which we took on a hike to Morro do Quiemado). Then there is the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sugarloaf_Mountain%2C_Brazil">Sugarloaf</a>, a mountain at the entrance of the Bay, so steep you can not walk up there, but that is hardly the only impressive peak. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNFAJzHMZ-c7pqqUvzf67Gb5LTycxZfiiemgnEQEe9y9ivr7cg_f0e2HhrObLCEY7VqMpt2a_2KUD1EEkcS7erwGm6N-K_1Fvv9_KwYNVq1qfl1NxoJtxEk8X6PwYMQZz7-5YaE_Jx9_7q/s1600-h/dois_irmaoes.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNFAJzHMZ-c7pqqUvzf67Gb5LTycxZfiiemgnEQEe9y9ivr7cg_f0e2HhrObLCEY7VqMpt2a_2KUD1EEkcS7erwGm6N-K_1Fvv9_KwYNVq1qfl1NxoJtxEk8X6PwYMQZz7-5YaE_Jx9_7q/s200/dois_irmaoes.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085993068375875970" /></a><br />Just south of Leblon the Dois Irmaos (Two Brothers) dominate the landscape, they, too, too steep for walking up. The <a href="http://www.terrabrasil.org.br/trilhas_mapas/tri_picotijuca.htm">Pico de Tijuca</a>, in our beloved urban forest, <a href="http://pt.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parque_Nacional_da_Tijuca">Parco National de Tijuca</a>, which is completely ringed by Rio and measures some 2-300 square kilometers (depending on how you measure it), is the highest at around 1100 meters. We climbed up there 8 days ago. The emperor mentioned below had about 120 steps carved out of the rock near the top, so people could go visit. Certain parts would not be easily climbed otherwise. Pico is dominant when one looks from Botafogo, Centro, or the Maracana' area.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHuvm08kz0xSTULPI35vucTxgA33gwuYTVkBKDxvDlcYmmi05OzmUsdP37lOwUBf4i6QhAoPLu92eiA8cfeP2OvqeZGECGT1Pcek3L1JiX7W5K3S9hARhTBSjZypUbDyaYq-LUZoDpqOur/s1600-h/lagoa.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHuvm08kz0xSTULPI35vucTxgA33gwuYTVkBKDxvDlcYmmi05OzmUsdP37lOwUBf4i6QhAoPLu92eiA8cfeP2OvqeZGECGT1Pcek3L1JiX7W5K3S9hARhTBSjZypUbDyaYq-LUZoDpqOur/s200/lagoa.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5086009174503236018" /></a> The southern part of the city, including Leblon and Ipanema, was reclaimed from the sea, which back then reached the base of the mountains. What is left of what I think was a vast mangrove forest is a Lagoon (Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas), ringed by a bike path, parks, soccer fields, and generally considered the other main playground around here. It is connected to the sea by a canal, which is lined with fishermen with their casting nets when the tide is right and the fish are moving in or out.<br /><br />One of the emperors was a great lover of nature, and he decreed that no one could build above 100 meters elevation. The decree is still law, yet another example where preservation succeeded through a lack of democracy. The only buildings above that line are the favelas, which are illegal and not served by water or electricity. Being high and often extremely steep, the favelas afford by far the best views in Rio. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMLC016-kvLzZJRChWVuewP-vkvm-qlJPAd7BIP4Gl0RkR1zqW0vfYUHMitMV52fuoNNgNrYo5ru3_UpkR8mLohEkohfA1T6BIf3XRA6ScojJZ6dCHlFyVsu7KkuFbSgoaCAXQFy-93Ko0/s1600-h/vidigal.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMLC016-kvLzZJRChWVuewP-vkvm-qlJPAd7BIP4Gl0RkR1zqW0vfYUHMitMV52fuoNNgNrYo5ru3_UpkR8mLohEkohfA1T6BIf3XRA6ScojJZ6dCHlFyVsu7KkuFbSgoaCAXQFy-93Ko0/s200/vidigal.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085993626721624466" /></a>Because of the very fragmented landscape there are about 200 favelas in the city, some small and some huge (the biggest favela in Brazil, Rocinha, above San Conrado about 4 miles from here, has 100000 inhabitants). In the picture is the favela of Vidigal, under the peaks of the Dois Irmaos, overlooking Leblon and the ocean. Some have been abandoned and reclaimed by the jungle, such as the Catacumba Park, overlooking the Lagoa.<br /><br />The result of such a landscape is a very fragmented city, with very distinctive neighborhoods, often connected by tunnels, extreme population density in many places (up to 0.5M/sqmi in Copa, no one lives in a single house), and incredible proximity to the jungle. I can have a long walk on a forested mountain side (pista Claudio Coutinho, just off the <a href="http://api.flickr.com/services/feeds/groups_discuss.gne?id=63347337@N00&format=rss_200">Praia Vermelha in Urca</a>), level about 10 meters above the sea at the feet of the Sugarloaf, just minutes from my office: this is one little piece of paradise, with tons of views like the one shown below. One also sees an interesting skyline wherever he looks. On a hot day, there are thermals generated by the biggest buildings. In the thermals are albatross, the dominant bird here (seagulls are rare), by the dozen and occasionally by the hundreds, soaring so high you can barely see them.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn2iqxE_iOO4Y5xbL1ryFm9NjH5iISCLW7ugiQAg73Wl-aVGUHTqmiWHr8cJju1basE0e3cULYi-XtEgp3Ttx0G3BhPk0IVRUBq0ztTIjl_sIhEs7njfxHNpwU7vmZoXwgULF5bm08P2E_/s1600-h/pista_view.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn2iqxE_iOO4Y5xbL1ryFm9NjH5iISCLW7ugiQAg73Wl-aVGUHTqmiWHr8cJju1basE0e3cULYi-XtEgp3Ttx0G3BhPk0IVRUBq0ztTIjl_sIhEs7njfxHNpwU7vmZoXwgULF5bm08P2E_/s320/pista_view.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085999708395315618" /></a><br /><br /><br /><a name="ITALIAN9"></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiStMgVW_QccBuLSYsLxWHUUVZzI_yIp0VDsUb2bdo8hW_ROs8BRB2U5ZwJgKIcp0g594BG8zZ1va2b7PtsHV0Un27reogLY12poMFdf8LKjwvPEjrZ3cRJIJYkI9-AuyLi158YsJr4du3h/s1600-h/corcovado_pao.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiStMgVW_QccBuLSYsLxWHUUVZzI_yIp0VDsUb2bdo8hW_ROs8BRB2U5ZwJgKIcp0g594BG8zZ1va2b7PtsHV0Un27reogLY12poMFdf8LKjwvPEjrZ3cRJIJYkI9-AuyLi158YsJr4du3h/s320/corcovado_pao.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085991423403401570" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga925X-IDPK4PA1WO0wuf_5eDBLgFQqb6RYKG3JTp4qpwdHjZZz4ynmETtF_pkKjS9QkpjxZym37z5JSE_ACkwlCyqGMDzWRyOlpU4ZAF01S-xH9jpUt1wehAOLSzoUNGnjQrxBttquHGc/s1600-h/granite.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga925X-IDPK4PA1WO0wuf_5eDBLgFQqb6RYKG3JTp4qpwdHjZZz4ynmETtF_pkKjS9QkpjxZym37z5JSE_ACkwlCyqGMDzWRyOlpU4ZAF01S-xH9jpUt1wehAOLSzoUNGnjQrxBttquHGc/s200/granite.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085992398360977778" /></a> Il paesaggio di Rio e' unico. Ci sono picchi dappertutto, che furono formati quando il Sud America si spinse via dall' Africa. L' erosione della pioggia tropicale li mantiene ripidi. Le rocce sono le stesse rocce che ho visto a Ilha Grande a sud, o dietro Rio a Teresopolis. La roccia madre e' granito, e c'e' arenaria (sabbia pressata e scaldata) e quarzo (sabbia scaldata e pressata molto).<br /><br />Il picco piu' centrale si chiama <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corcovado">Corcovado</a>, e ha una statua immensa del Redentore, appena nominata una delle <a href="http://www.new7wonders.com/">sette meraviglie del mondo moderno</a> (mah). Ma la statua domina veramente la citta', visibile dall' appartamento, dall' ufficio, dal posto dove incontriamo i nostri compagni di camminata, dappertutto (la potete vedere emergere dalla nebbia assieme al Pan di Zucchero nella foto qui in alto, che abbiamo preso durante una camminata al Morro do Quiemado). Poi c'e' il <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sugarloaf_Mountain%2C_Brazil">Pan di Zucchero</a>, una montagna vicino all' entrata della Baia, cosi' ripida che uno non puo' andare su a piedi. Ma quello non e' il solo picco notevole. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNFAJzHMZ-c7pqqUvzf67Gb5LTycxZfiiemgnEQEe9y9ivr7cg_f0e2HhrObLCEY7VqMpt2a_2KUD1EEkcS7erwGm6N-K_1Fvv9_KwYNVq1qfl1NxoJtxEk8X6PwYMQZz7-5YaE_Jx9_7q/s1600-h/dois_irmaoes.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNFAJzHMZ-c7pqqUvzf67Gb5LTycxZfiiemgnEQEe9y9ivr7cg_f0e2HhrObLCEY7VqMpt2a_2KUD1EEkcS7erwGm6N-K_1Fvv9_KwYNVq1qfl1NxoJtxEk8X6PwYMQZz7-5YaE_Jx9_7q/s200/dois_irmaoes.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085993068375875970" /></a><br />Alla fine di Leblon I Dois Irmaos (Due Fratelli) dominano il paesaggio, anche loro troppo ripidi per camminare. Il <a href="http://www.terrabrasil.org.br/trilhas_mapas/tri_picotijuca.htm">Pico de Tijuca</a>, nella nostra amata foresta urbana, Parco National de Tijuca, che e' completamente circondata dalla citta' e misura da 2 a 300 km2 (a seconda di come uno lo misura), e' il piu' alto a circa 1100 metri. Siamo andati lassu' 8 giorni fa. L' imperatore menzionato sotto fece scolpire 120 scalini nella roccia vicino alla cima, cosicche' la gente potesse andare in cima. Alcune parti del Pico non sarebbero molto facili altrimenti. Il Pico e' dominante se uno guarda le montagne da Botafogo, dal Centro, o dal Maracana'.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHuvm08kz0xSTULPI35vucTxgA33gwuYTVkBKDxvDlcYmmi05OzmUsdP37lOwUBf4i6QhAoPLu92eiA8cfeP2OvqeZGECGT1Pcek3L1JiX7W5K3S9hARhTBSjZypUbDyaYq-LUZoDpqOur/s1600-h/lagoa.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHuvm08kz0xSTULPI35vucTxgA33gwuYTVkBKDxvDlcYmmi05OzmUsdP37lOwUBf4i6QhAoPLu92eiA8cfeP2OvqeZGECGT1Pcek3L1JiX7W5K3S9hARhTBSjZypUbDyaYq-LUZoDpqOur/s200/lagoa.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5086009174503236018" /></a> La parte sud della citta', incluso Ipanema e Leblon, fu ricavata dal mare, che allora arrivava fin sotto le montagne. Quel che e' rimasto di quella che penso fosse una grande foresta di mangrovie e' una laguna (Lagoa), circondata da una pista ciclabile, parchetti vari, campi da calcio, e generalmente considerata l' altro parco giochi qui. La Lagoa e' connessa al mare da un canale, che e' pieno di pescatori con reti a lancio quando la marea e' giusta e il pesce migra dentro o fuori.<br /><br />Uno degli imperatori era un grande amante della natura, e decreto' che nessuno poteva costruire al di sopra di 100 metri di elevazione. Il decreto e' ancora legge, ancora un altro esempio dove la preservazione ambientale e' stat favorita da una mancanza di democrazia. I soli edifici al di sopra di quella linea sono le favelas, che sono illegali e non sono servite da acqua, elettricita' o gas. Essendo in alto e spesso estremamente ripide, le favelas hanno spesso le viste migliori di Rio. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMLC016-kvLzZJRChWVuewP-vkvm-qlJPAd7BIP4Gl0RkR1zqW0vfYUHMitMV52fuoNNgNrYo5ru3_UpkR8mLohEkohfA1T6BIf3XRA6ScojJZ6dCHlFyVsu7KkuFbSgoaCAXQFy-93Ko0/s1600-h/vidigal.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMLC016-kvLzZJRChWVuewP-vkvm-qlJPAd7BIP4Gl0RkR1zqW0vfYUHMitMV52fuoNNgNrYo5ru3_UpkR8mLohEkohfA1T6BIf3XRA6ScojJZ6dCHlFyVsu7KkuFbSgoaCAXQFy-93Ko0/s200/vidigal.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085993626721624466" /></a> A causa del paesaggio molto frammentato, ci sono favelas dappertutto, 200 in totale, alcune piccole e altre enormi (la piu' grande del Brasile, Rocinha, sopra San Conrado a circa 6km da qui, ha circa 100000 abitanti). Nella foto qui e' la favela di Vidigal, ai piedi dei Dois Irmaos, con vista su Leblon e sull'oceano. Alcune favelas sono state abbandonate e la giungla le ha ricoperte, come il Parco Catacumba, sopra la Lagoa.<br /><br />Il risultato di un tale paesaggio e' una citta' molto frammentata, con quartieri molto distinti, connessi da tunnels, e densita' di popolazione estrema in molti posti (nessuno vive in casa singola, e la densita' e' circa 100000 ab./km2 a Copa), e incredibile vicinanza alla giungla. Io posso andare su un sentiero intorno a una montagna (la pista Claudio Coutinho che parte dalla <a href="http://api.flickr.com/services/feeds/groups_discuss.gne?id=63347337@N00&format=rss_200">Praia Vermelha a Urca</a>), a livello piano a circa dieci metri sopra il mare, nella stessa formazione rocciosa del Pan di Zucchero: questo piccolo pezzo di paradiso, vedi foto di una delle innumerevoli vista qui sotto, si trova a pochi minuti dal mio ufficio. Si vede anche un paesaggio interessante dovunque uno guardi. In un giorno caldo, ci sono correnti ascensionali generate dagli edifici piu' grandi. Nelle correnti ci sono albatri, dozzine e raramente centinaia, cosi' alti che uno li vede a malapena.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn2iqxE_iOO4Y5xbL1ryFm9NjH5iISCLW7ugiQAg73Wl-aVGUHTqmiWHr8cJju1basE0e3cULYi-XtEgp3Ttx0G3BhPk0IVRUBq0ztTIjl_sIhEs7njfxHNpwU7vmZoXwgULF5bm08P2E_/s1600-h/pista_view.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn2iqxE_iOO4Y5xbL1ryFm9NjH5iISCLW7ugiQAg73Wl-aVGUHTqmiWHr8cJju1basE0e3cULYi-XtEgp3Ttx0G3BhPk0IVRUBq0ztTIjl_sIhEs7njfxHNpwU7vmZoXwgULF5bm08P2E_/s320/pista_view.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085999708395315618" /></a>Monica, Maria, Giovannihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10405831812151522517noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2104461867688933676.post-14874618240206063102007-07-04T15:15:00.000-07:002007-07-10T17:20:21.024-07:00Thursday's market<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnoQzTUW04QW3eoc_178tLcZOKGn2UPzPs6Mipg29sJtbsyPnKsjTgy_Fh0VlqRGuPVuO45Yh4Zm333luohVKClmfR4W0XLCpaHIz1su2uW429LY7NoLUA5vBDOPATVCt9QBlUh3cRcZgR/s1600-h/mercato.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnoQzTUW04QW3eoc_178tLcZOKGn2UPzPs6Mipg29sJtbsyPnKsjTgy_Fh0VlqRGuPVuO45Yh4Zm333luohVKClmfR4W0XLCpaHIz1su2uW429LY7NoLUA5vBDOPATVCt9QBlUh3cRcZgR/s320/mercato.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085716313568223474" /></a><br /><br /><a href="#ITALIAN8"> <b>(in italiano)</b></a><br /><br />Although by now we buy also at other markets, such as the Monday market along the <br />canal that divides Leblon and Ipanema, the Thursday market is special due to its proximity to our apartment (one block), its messiness (shoppers and stands share a narrow sidewalk), and good to great food quality. Monica goes shopping with a cart and it takes two trips as my hunger for fresh fruits has increased here.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA26vXFvO2_ZcQCKqDN_KfdzOkOmNNn7PUWjRuHd3uAiqHtGHFNzG00Qdqklhp4xZBQwoW7EcJUkU8hv9BsNMftgKwM2iN_Xgeb05HsTiFDlalIUAoKx58ySGI7Ls1ipvqiIAbBHnVf2qa/s1600-h/mamao.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA26vXFvO2_ZcQCKqDN_KfdzOkOmNNn7PUWjRuHd3uAiqHtGHFNzG00Qdqklhp4xZBQwoW7EcJUkU8hv9BsNMftgKwM2iN_Xgeb05HsTiFDlalIUAoKx58ySGI7Ls1ipvqiIAbBHnVf2qa/s200/mamao.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085718315022983426" /></a> The market has a wide variety of fruits and vegetables, as the growing season is continuous here. For the most part vegetables are continuously planted, grown, and sold. This means that, for example, potatoes are always new, thin-skinned and garlic is always fresh, and are eaten within days of harvest. For spices, we limit ourselves to the fresh garlic, a bag of chilies which is frozen and will last a long time (one small one goes a long way), incredibly fresh ginger, lime, and bunches of herbs (basil and parsley). Major fruits, such as bananas, mangoes, papayas (mamao), and passion fruit (maracuja), have apparently a continuous season. There is some seasonality, for example by now persimmons have nearly disappeared and caju (the fruit whose seed is marketed as cashew) have completely disappeared. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlpK2dVt0MowvKQsWJyI_RHgQq-IZ7igQprLcn2_Gsi7X0M4om1efnpaGxrvHBrRfai0YGK-F4TL4pEO2VsAVnWSC4wzdPTAn7M7DiMIiHZ8weLXc-cJ2JHKrfu3Nj2F3r5BzZBAGzlzr9/s1600-h/banana.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlpK2dVt0MowvKQsWJyI_RHgQq-IZ7igQprLcn2_Gsi7X0M4om1efnpaGxrvHBrRfai0YGK-F4TL4pEO2VsAVnWSC4wzdPTAn7M7DiMIiHZ8weLXc-cJ2JHKrfu3Nj2F3r5BzZBAGzlzr9/s200/banana.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085718637145530642" /></a> Local fruits have, of course, nothing to do with the american counterparts. The pineapples are sweet and mellow, and we eat one most nights, the bananas fragrant and a bit spicy, eaten at all times of the day, much as one eats apples in America (one friend buys about 120 bananas a week for herself, husband and 7-yrs old kid). Just like everyone else in Brazil, at home or on the road, we start our day with mamao sprinkled with lime juice. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWNTNuvPO9ig7dhuIxYvAbhDQh0Nagxf60DG5g5ePH9KpVJq9ZmcBb71b3Ct0YTVhtGYHxQ0-Bv5pvW67xpUBUUwYCdDfnqpvAYlVF6IsUjxRt5tzsHQbpkNMWzAEXHQ42jjKikcQofvbj/s1600-h/verdure.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWNTNuvPO9ig7dhuIxYvAbhDQh0Nagxf60DG5g5ePH9KpVJq9ZmcBb71b3Ct0YTVhtGYHxQ0-Bv5pvW67xpUBUUwYCdDfnqpvAYlVF6IsUjxRt5tzsHQbpkNMWzAEXHQ42jjKikcQofvbj/s200/verdure.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085725680891896098" /></a> I won't discuss the incredible local fruit juices as this is the dead of winter and we don't drink them as much as when we first arrived here. The local greens are also quite different from those of more temperate zones, some with leaves so large one will be enough for one side dish (by now we have tried many). Certain stalls sell greens and herbs only, and present a green wall to the seller.<br /><br />Fish is sold at several stalls, <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_CIfHIMznnm1St03Z7MMBBNnVmQFGR5o7aVgfDyiSEWFeMX0E6Ket9YIbWHH_sqymTDBfDJcPPdZoYMHtcs5tdYoU3zJzqwTe3shbR_tW8XMJtePzgYuN4TKShoZRHkpT_1nkSrhdwI_z/s1600-h/acciughe.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_CIfHIMznnm1St03Z7MMBBNnVmQFGR5o7aVgfDyiSEWFeMX0E6Ket9YIbWHH_sqymTDBfDJcPPdZoYMHtcs5tdYoU3zJzqwTe3shbR_tW8XMJtePzgYuN4TKShoZRHkpT_1nkSrhdwI_z/s200/acciughe.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085726239237644610" /></a> but our favorite one are the humble sardines, cleaned and opened, and sold in stacks of five in small stalls that sell no other fish. We eat them baked twice a week, and they cost 5R for a dinner for the whole family. They are a bit bony, but the flavor is wonderful. We have tried a few other strange fish over time, and the selection is quite different from what one gets in America, as most fish is locally caught.<br /><br />This market is one where you can be charged very varying prices for the same stuff. Always best to compare prices as there are inevitably a few honest sellers.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAXJ9P2xfAw0COF1osOhKaTE93HFaH8SDBGpTaJs70mYqJ3raShv9c8ol7GRdSS02n1QuPAFnfJqsSOyQ-wGiqVCKKOD3xeGjQXrX4ZSzAJOyGjTlLHWXNmy5NBq4L5hjNFBXEzjncECzQ/s1600-h/biscuitos.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAXJ9P2xfAw0COF1osOhKaTE93HFaH8SDBGpTaJs70mYqJ3raShv9c8ol7GRdSS02n1QuPAFnfJqsSOyQ-wGiqVCKKOD3xeGjQXrX4ZSzAJOyGjTlLHWXNmy5NBq4L5hjNFBXEzjncECzQ/s320/biscuitos.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085726389561499986" /></a><br /><br /><br /><a name="ITALIAN8"></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnoQzTUW04QW3eoc_178tLcZOKGn2UPzPs6Mipg29sJtbsyPnKsjTgy_Fh0VlqRGuPVuO45Yh4Zm333luohVKClmfR4W0XLCpaHIz1su2uW429LY7NoLUA5vBDOPATVCt9QBlUh3cRcZgR/s1600-h/mercato.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnoQzTUW04QW3eoc_178tLcZOKGn2UPzPs6Mipg29sJtbsyPnKsjTgy_Fh0VlqRGuPVuO45Yh4Zm333luohVKClmfR4W0XLCpaHIz1su2uW429LY7NoLUA5vBDOPATVCt9QBlUh3cRcZgR/s320/mercato.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085716313568223474" /></a><br /><br />Anche se ora compriamo ad altri mercati, come il mercato del lunedi' lungo il canale che divide Leblon da Ipanema, il mercato del giovedi' e' speciale a causa della sua vicinanza (un isolato dal nostro appartamento), il casino (clienti e venditori sono accalcati su un marciapiede), e qualita' da buona a eccellente. Monica va a comprare con un carrello e deve fare due viaggi, la mia predilezione per frutta fresca non e' diminuita qui.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA26vXFvO2_ZcQCKqDN_KfdzOkOmNNn7PUWjRuHd3uAiqHtGHFNzG00Qdqklhp4xZBQwoW7EcJUkU8hv9BsNMftgKwM2iN_Xgeb05HsTiFDlalIUAoKx58ySGI7Ls1ipvqiIAbBHnVf2qa/s1600-h/mamao.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA26vXFvO2_ZcQCKqDN_KfdzOkOmNNn7PUWjRuHd3uAiqHtGHFNzG00Qdqklhp4xZBQwoW7EcJUkU8hv9BsNMftgKwM2iN_Xgeb05HsTiFDlalIUAoKx58ySGI7Ls1ipvqiIAbBHnVf2qa/s200/mamao.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085718315022983426" /></a> Il mercato ha una grande varieta' di frutta e verdura, la stagione di crescita e' continua qui. Per lo piu', la verdura e' piantata, cresciuta, e venduta continuamente. Questo significa che, per esempio, le patate sono sempre novelle e l' aglio e' sempre fresco, e sono mangiati entro pochi giorni dal raccolto. Per gli odori, ci limitiamo all' aglio, un sacchetto di peperoncini che e' congelato e ci durera' un sacco di tempo (uno piccolo basta e avanza), zenzero incredibilmente fresco, lime, e qualche erba (per lo piu' basilico e prezzemolo). Frutta principale, come banane, manghi, papaya (mamao), e frutto della passione (maracuja') sembra avere una stagione continua. C'e' un po' di variazione, per esempio i cachi sono quasi sparity e i caju (il frutto il cui seme e' venduto come nocciolina cashew) e' completamente sparito.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlpK2dVt0MowvKQsWJyI_RHgQq-IZ7igQprLcn2_Gsi7X0M4om1efnpaGxrvHBrRfai0YGK-F4TL4pEO2VsAVnWSC4wzdPTAn7M7DiMIiHZ8weLXc-cJ2JHKrfu3Nj2F3r5BzZBAGzlzr9/s1600-h/banana.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlpK2dVt0MowvKQsWJyI_RHgQq-IZ7igQprLcn2_Gsi7X0M4om1efnpaGxrvHBrRfai0YGK-F4TL4pEO2VsAVnWSC4wzdPTAn7M7DiMIiHZ8weLXc-cJ2JHKrfu3Nj2F3r5BzZBAGzlzr9/s200/banana.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085718637145530642" /></a>La frutta locale, naturalmente, non ha nulla a che vedere con la frutta equivalente americana. Gli ananas sono dolci, ne mangiamo uno quasi ogni sera, le banane fragranti e un po' piccante, si mangiano a ogni ora del giorno, un po' come uno mangia mele in America (un' amica compra 120 banane alla settimana per una famiglia di tre). Come chiunque altro in Brasile, a casa o al ristorante, la nostra colazione comincia con mamao con succo di lime. No parlero' degli incredibili succhi di frutta locali, ora siamo in pieno inverno e non li beviamo come quando siamo arrivati). <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWNTNuvPO9ig7dhuIxYvAbhDQh0Nagxf60DG5g5ePH9KpVJq9ZmcBb71b3Ct0YTVhtGYHxQ0-Bv5pvW67xpUBUUwYCdDfnqpvAYlVF6IsUjxRt5tzsHQbpkNMWzAEXHQ42jjKikcQofvbj/s1600-h/verdure.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWNTNuvPO9ig7dhuIxYvAbhDQh0Nagxf60DG5g5ePH9KpVJq9ZmcBb71b3Ct0YTVhtGYHxQ0-Bv5pvW67xpUBUUwYCdDfnqpvAYlVF6IsUjxRt5tzsHQbpkNMWzAEXHQ42jjKikcQofvbj/s200/verdure.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085725680891896098" /></a> Le verdure verdi locali sono differenti da quelle delle zone temperate, alcune con foglie cosi' larghe che una basta come contorno (a questo punto ne abbiamo provati diversi). Alcuni banchi vendono solamente roba verde e erbe, e presentano un muro verde all' acquirente.<br /><br />Il pesce e' venduto in diversi banchetti, <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_CIfHIMznnm1St03Z7MMBBNnVmQFGR5o7aVgfDyiSEWFeMX0E6Ket9YIbWHH_sqymTDBfDJcPPdZoYMHtcs5tdYoU3zJzqwTe3shbR_tW8XMJtePzgYuN4TKShoZRHkpT_1nkSrhdwI_z/s1600-h/acciughe.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_CIfHIMznnm1St03Z7MMBBNnVmQFGR5o7aVgfDyiSEWFeMX0E6Ket9YIbWHH_sqymTDBfDJcPPdZoYMHtcs5tdYoU3zJzqwTe3shbR_tW8XMJtePzgYuN4TKShoZRHkpT_1nkSrhdwI_z/s200/acciughe.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085726239237644610" /></a> ma il nostro favorito sono le sardine locali, pulite e aperte, e vendute in pile di 5 in banchetti piccoli che non vendono altro pesce. Le mangiamo al forno due volte la settimana, e una cena per la famiglia intera costa 5R. Hanno un po' di lische, ma il sapore e' eccellente. Abbiamo provato altri pesci, la selezione qui e' differente da quella che uno trova in America, perche' quasi tutto il pesce e' locale. <br /><br />In questo mercato uno puo' farsi fregare molto facilmente. E' sempre meglio comparare prezzi dato che inevitabilmente c'e' qualche venditore onesto.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAXJ9P2xfAw0COF1osOhKaTE93HFaH8SDBGpTaJs70mYqJ3raShv9c8ol7GRdSS02n1QuPAFnfJqsSOyQ-wGiqVCKKOD3xeGjQXrX4ZSzAJOyGjTlLHWXNmy5NBq4L5hjNFBXEzjncECzQ/s1600-h/biscuitos.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAXJ9P2xfAw0COF1osOhKaTE93HFaH8SDBGpTaJs70mYqJ3raShv9c8ol7GRdSS02n1QuPAFnfJqsSOyQ-wGiqVCKKOD3xeGjQXrX4ZSzAJOyGjTlLHWXNmy5NBq4L5hjNFBXEzjncECzQ/s320/biscuitos.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085726389561499986" /></a>Monica, Maria, Giovannihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10405831812151522517noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2104461867688933676.post-64257106086246346862007-07-04T14:25:00.000-07:002007-07-09T19:15:41.258-07:00Maria's Football School<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikV1ubbHWoyIgZew4XZdaKixRHb-6BgAexVJc7QplM3zmbPdFseqUCxdS3tcU-RnFwjph2P7oJL_4hR8vUQlnk6hfkbKGHXZWjZe3fybi3yE44V-vMrXL8vxvFr1JbjMgjiw7NJaW79VhH/s1600-h/banner.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikV1ubbHWoyIgZew4XZdaKixRHb-6BgAexVJc7QplM3zmbPdFseqUCxdS3tcU-RnFwjph2P7oJL_4hR8vUQlnk6hfkbKGHXZWjZe3fybi3yE44V-vMrXL8vxvFr1JbjMgjiw7NJaW79VhH/s320/banner.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085383573861867682" /></a><br /><br /><a href="#ITALIAN7"> <b>(in italiano)</b></a><br /><br />Maria plays on the beach, almost directly in front of our address, three times a week in the morning (she goes to school in the afternoon). The school is organized by Paulinho and Taji, costs 45 R/month and caters to all sorts of kids between 4 and 16. They have a full schedule, and there are kids playing 9 hours a day, five days a week.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz4DGCxoz6w0l3ntg0LeX8JaxTz8yCY4fklRzwm87mb5A1oG0xQLMqAI2iUtmhyphenhyphenBw8u5bL5CdCdzqmpPVwFpS-E_OS7Y21R2Ja0VAs8EjDieQ37hBgEYgW1EFdKmm3B3z83x8zdV6cS-5B/s1600-h/punto_11.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz4DGCxoz6w0l3ntg0LeX8JaxTz8yCY4fklRzwm87mb5A1oG0xQLMqAI2iUtmhyphenhyphenBw8u5bL5CdCdzqmpPVwFpS-E_OS7Y21R2Ja0VAs8EjDieQ37hBgEYgW1EFdKmm3B3z83x8zdV6cS-5B/s200/punto_11.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085383780020297906" /></a>The school occupies a piece of the beach just West of Ponto 11. The exact size of the football field depends on the tides and the waves. On a bad day it can pretty be much washed off, but the kids soldier on and play in a few inches of water without complaining. The parents, always numerous, sit on the edge of the sidewalk and watch the game (very little drills, mostly they just play)<br /><br /><br />Just on the other side of Ponto 11, the ever popular Flamengo team trains every wednesday morning on the beach. It is mostly drills in the sand, to strengthen legs. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBtpPDjX5UXw8r4zxeEXNeS-y2qD_LM8Bgoh1C6DwkDg98n3HLs4mM9jpeKtN9CL-ybdQMYnaMwG4gN0DJ_Dc8QkBPkBoB1PhzEeuQM7fHCKvznJJR8XykFypVBpgFHumuFGBCKSZbhMjq/s1600-h/renato_augusto.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBtpPDjX5UXw8r4zxeEXNeS-y2qD_LM8Bgoh1C6DwkDg98n3HLs4mM9jpeKtN9CL-ybdQMYnaMwG4gN0DJ_Dc8QkBPkBoB1PhzEeuQM7fHCKvznJJR8XykFypVBpgFHumuFGBCKSZbhMjq/s200/renato_augusto.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085384514459705538" /></a>The faithful crowd the sidewalk to watch their boys. Maria found a way to get pictures with Renato Augusto and Renato <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVvaDXHj14CswJ0CEKs5b9Mad_lb57bDDzXLkbmA9VI9iX8P0ZDwqCeDxr7qBGLl2pvkQ8fe2DZxoNUuEx0LIQVF5LrrjakWlbITkQpaTyhV2wO5lD3LRd3ruI5XvHfcOq88MhwAaYHXhH/s1600-h/renato.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVvaDXHj14CswJ0CEKs5b9Mad_lb57bDDzXLkbmA9VI9iX8P0ZDwqCeDxr7qBGLl2pvkQ8fe2DZxoNUuEx0LIQVF5LrrjakWlbITkQpaTyhV2wO5lD3LRd3ruI5XvHfcOq88MhwAaYHXhH/s200/renato.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085384634718789842" /></a><br />, two of the starting midfielders. Renato Augusto had just been chosen to be part for the Under-21 Selecao, in the U-21 World Championship currently under way in Canada, as one of the three overage players allowed. We watched him last night as he directed the play from midfield, in a thrilling game that Brazil won over Soth Korea, 3-2. Moments after Maria's picture, he was mobbed by reporters who wanted to save his thoughts for posterity about his selection. Monica took this picture, and funnily enough, we watched the same scene on TV as a cameraman must have been a few feet from Monica.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhsMwlst16XzJpaUO-95tvo2S-XWh9T8M1qqnXgy9D0O2pJ3NgUo8iOI0dJ23L_CpPlAivZV6nFh0GRtW43hf_vdFWEqnoDuncjtY3Uk0dkCs13VOKYmxDhrBrBkOlUdUAUysM2mIAY_62/s1600-h/huddle.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhsMwlst16XzJpaUO-95tvo2S-XWh9T8M1qqnXgy9D0O2pJ3NgUo8iOI0dJ23L_CpPlAivZV6nFh0GRtW43hf_vdFWEqnoDuncjtY3Uk0dkCs13VOKYmxDhrBrBkOlUdUAUysM2mIAY_62/s320/huddle.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085385274668916962" /></a><br /><br /><br /><a name="ITALIAN7"></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikV1ubbHWoyIgZew4XZdaKixRHb-6BgAexVJc7QplM3zmbPdFseqUCxdS3tcU-RnFwjph2P7oJL_4hR8vUQlnk6hfkbKGHXZWjZe3fybi3yE44V-vMrXL8vxvFr1JbjMgjiw7NJaW79VhH/s1600-h/banner.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikV1ubbHWoyIgZew4XZdaKixRHb-6BgAexVJc7QplM3zmbPdFseqUCxdS3tcU-RnFwjph2P7oJL_4hR8vUQlnk6hfkbKGHXZWjZe3fybi3yE44V-vMrXL8vxvFr1JbjMgjiw7NJaW79VhH/s320/banner.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085383573861867682" /></a><br /><br /><br />Maria gioca a pallone sulla spiaggia, quasi esattamente di fronte al nostro edificio, tre volte alla settimana di mattina (va a scuola il pomeriggio). La scuola e' organizzata da Paulinho e Taji, costa 45R/mese e ha ogni tipo di bimbi fra i 4 e i 16 anni. Hanno una agenda piena, e ci sono bimbi che giocano 9 ore al giorno, 5 giorni alla settimana.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz4DGCxoz6w0l3ntg0LeX8JaxTz8yCY4fklRzwm87mb5A1oG0xQLMqAI2iUtmhyphenhyphenBw8u5bL5CdCdzqmpPVwFpS-E_OS7Y21R2Ja0VAs8EjDieQ37hBgEYgW1EFdKmm3B3z83x8zdV6cS-5B/s1600-h/punto_11.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz4DGCxoz6w0l3ntg0LeX8JaxTz8yCY4fklRzwm87mb5A1oG0xQLMqAI2iUtmhyphenhyphenBw8u5bL5CdCdzqmpPVwFpS-E_OS7Y21R2Ja0VAs8EjDieQ37hBgEYgW1EFdKmm3B3z83x8zdV6cS-5B/s200/punto_11.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085383780020297906" /></a>La scuola occupa un pezzo di spiaggia a ovest di Punto 11. Il campo disponibile dipende dalle maree e dalle onde. In un giorno con alta marea e tempesta puo' quasi sparire, ma i bimbi continuano a giocare in alcuni centimetri d' acqua, senza lamentarsi. I genitori, sempre numerosi, si siedono sull' orlo del marciapede e guardano la partita (pochi esercizi, giocano quasi sempre).<br /><br />Giusto dall' altra parte del Punto 11, il Flamengo si allena ogni mercoledi' mattina sulla spiaggia. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBtpPDjX5UXw8r4zxeEXNeS-y2qD_LM8Bgoh1C6DwkDg98n3HLs4mM9jpeKtN9CL-ybdQMYnaMwG4gN0DJ_Dc8QkBPkBoB1PhzEeuQM7fHCKvznJJR8XykFypVBpgFHumuFGBCKSZbhMjq/s1600-h/renato_augusto.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBtpPDjX5UXw8r4zxeEXNeS-y2qD_LM8Bgoh1C6DwkDg98n3HLs4mM9jpeKtN9CL-ybdQMYnaMwG4gN0DJ_Dc8QkBPkBoB1PhzEeuQM7fHCKvznJJR8XykFypVBpgFHumuFGBCKSZbhMjq/s200/renato_augusto.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085384514459705538" /></a>Per lo piu' sono esercizi nella sabbia, per allenare le gambe. I tifosi si accalcano sul marciapiede per guardare. Maria trovo' il modo di farsi fotografare con Renato e Renato Augusto, due dei centrocampisti titolari. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVvaDXHj14CswJ0CEKs5b9Mad_lb57bDDzXLkbmA9VI9iX8P0ZDwqCeDxr7qBGLl2pvkQ8fe2DZxoNUuEx0LIQVF5LrrjakWlbITkQpaTyhV2wO5lD3LRd3ruI5XvHfcOq88MhwAaYHXhH/s1600-h/renato.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVvaDXHj14CswJ0CEKs5b9Mad_lb57bDDzXLkbmA9VI9iX8P0ZDwqCeDxr7qBGLl2pvkQ8fe2DZxoNUuEx0LIQVF5LrrjakWlbITkQpaTyhV2wO5lD3LRd3ruI5XvHfcOq88MhwAaYHXhH/s200/renato.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085384634718789842" /></a>Renato Augusto era stato appena scelto per essere parte della Selecao Under-21, per il Campionato del Mondo U-21 in corso ora in Canada, uno dei tre fuoriquota permessi. Lo abbiamo ammirato ieri sera, che dirigeva il gioco da meta' campo, in una partita emozionante che il Brasile ha vinto 3-2 contro la Corea del Sud. Alcuni secondi dopo la foto con Maria, e' stato assaltato da una torma di giornalisti che volevano la sua opinione sulla sua selezione. Monica prese questa foto, e la sera abbiamo visto la stessa identica scena in TV. Ci doveva essere un cameraman a un metro da Monica.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhsMwlst16XzJpaUO-95tvo2S-XWh9T8M1qqnXgy9D0O2pJ3NgUo8iOI0dJ23L_CpPlAivZV6nFh0GRtW43hf_vdFWEqnoDuncjtY3Uk0dkCs13VOKYmxDhrBrBkOlUdUAUysM2mIAY_62/s1600-h/huddle.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhsMwlst16XzJpaUO-95tvo2S-XWh9T8M1qqnXgy9D0O2pJ3NgUo8iOI0dJ23L_CpPlAivZV6nFh0GRtW43hf_vdFWEqnoDuncjtY3Uk0dkCs13VOKYmxDhrBrBkOlUdUAUysM2mIAY_62/s320/huddle.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085385274668916962" /></a>Monica, Maria, Giovannihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10405831812151522517noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2104461867688933676.post-91730405569963763432007-07-02T14:43:00.000-07:002007-07-24T16:15:44.565-07:00Teresopolis<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxQTRyafhYQeUEwifmPwXjjx-MgCHmqBw_VwXNOzrOKLkH9xAnzJ-UbuAP3YdPA_rMSZPdcTVn5J8XE42zkbXxdutK5hzijPf0tnxhqFPX9DIh49PScTW37MylacOczcb9yZgmqQLk1xaV/s1600-h/girls_teresopolis.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxQTRyafhYQeUEwifmPwXjjx-MgCHmqBw_VwXNOzrOKLkH9xAnzJ-UbuAP3YdPA_rMSZPdcTVn5J8XE42zkbXxdutK5hzijPf0tnxhqFPX9DIh49PScTW37MylacOczcb9yZgmqQLk1xaV/s320/girls_teresopolis.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085371358974877826" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><a href="http://www.blogger.com/post-edit.g?blogID=2104461867688933676&postID=9173040556996376343#ITALIAN6"> <b>(in italiano)</b></a><br /><br />A note about Teresopolis before we completely forget about that trip, our only time outside of Rio so far. It was a weekend-long birthday party (May 19-20) of one of the girls in Maria's class, Helena, and the whole class was invited. The kids stayed in the house, and the parents went to a B&B nearby .<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLVv3ymgkWS_JdbXG-ejGoEZlE74OGiOPxaZrVIWID3_jG3Q9g4Xi2LBczFwQtJSKqzWGzKc_K7DEAQNtrH0Nf6dk3VYYYwBgMfNFpmBWkL55YmdHfOlTlbuo9gwTR4zNperu3prqPAusr/s1600-h/festa_famiglia.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLVv3ymgkWS_JdbXG-ejGoEZlE74OGiOPxaZrVIWID3_jG3Q9g4Xi2LBczFwQtJSKqzWGzKc_K7DEAQNtrH0Nf6dk3VYYYwBgMfNFpmBWkL55YmdHfOlTlbuo9gwTR4zNperu3prqPAusr/s200/festa_famiglia.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085362854939631634" border="0" /></a>Saturday started with the Family school party at a park by the <a href="http://lifeinleblon.blogspot.com/2007/06/more-on-my-commute.html">Lagoon</a>.<br />The park is really a former favela, on the mountain side, which has been abandoned and then reclaimed by the jungle. You can get pretty lost in that steep terrain and thick vegetation (the girls did indeed manage to escape into the jungle for one hour). Hundreds of people attended, including former students and their parents. There was music and plenty of food.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPw6OspblpfCELIgYbrkQp5W2o12-3UVjGZ2kVYv4Y75ldy-_BChmknsBVIDK_xGLtAgNAhRRoWz3L8RlDe581oxcs-FX3TNPn8PtPclmkDEFFE6tljUeYQd2PQAZ-FfE7jxS3f4dK5UiK/s1600-h/monica_teresopolis.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPw6OspblpfCELIgYbrkQp5W2o12-3UVjGZ2kVYv4Y75ldy-_BChmknsBVIDK_xGLtAgNAhRRoWz3L8RlDe581oxcs-FX3TNPn8PtPclmkDEFFE6tljUeYQd2PQAZ-FfE7jxS3f4dK5UiK/s200/monica_teresopolis.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085363138407473186" border="0" /></a>Then we left for Teresopolis with Renata and Sebastiao, parents of Ligia, who had kindly agreed to give us a ride (the girls traveled in an all girls car). The ride up, about 130 km, is up the mountains in the back of Rio. They are incredibly steep, with spectacular sheer cliffs ringed over, under and around by the mata atlantica (the atlantic jungle). The trip takes us through a national park.<br /><br />Teresopolis was the summer retreat of the empress, whereas nearby Petropolis was the same for the emperor. When Rio swelters in the February heat, these heights maintain a comfortable temperature. Because of the favorable climate, Teresopolis is best known for being the Brazilian Coverciano, the place where the football national team (known simply as the "selecao", the same way as in Italy it is the "Azzurri") trains. Last week, as the selecao was preparing for Copa America, Channel 38 had nonstop coverage from Teresopolis, hours and hours every night. Brazil lost the first game to Mexico, looking the inferior team in the process. They won the second game with Chile. At any rate, Argentina, led by the great Juan Riquelme, looks unbeatable.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc1mB8u3JRvWcz8xevC8pmpy8F2SD8_gMz0NGAMiRTXmvJV1GOp__htoc4JlhWQYI8sJC9oDNYWhpCIlMOW2qQf0LmnK1y8dH7d9bL2ynVI22cUtyTmmcrYx1xjX3HddSQ3HluWaHNwxA4/s1600-h/teresopolis_porta.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc1mB8u3JRvWcz8xevC8pmpy8F2SD8_gMz0NGAMiRTXmvJV1GOp__htoc4JlhWQYI8sJC9oDNYWhpCIlMOW2qQf0LmnK1y8dH7d9bL2ynVI22cUtyTmmcrYx1xjX3HddSQ3HluWaHNwxA4/s200/teresopolis_porta.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085368253713522738" border="0" /></a>Once in Teresopolis, we had a late lunch with all the other parents who had taken the trip. It was a beautiful house and property, inhabited by the grandparents of the birthday girl but with plenty of room for the family to go visit on weekends. There was a panicky moment when the kids closed themselves in one room and broke the handle (the father climbed through the roof and entered from the window, greeted as a saving superhero by the roomful of kids). Later, we went to our (nice, clean and cheap) bed-and-breakfast ("pousada") for the night.<br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw4T9M6dJDAovRsNpPoAOeG-ivpHHJckHWFzeVnEGakzCT2lhE6xR1toRBb8zpE36FKuROX_nwCl1Roa7NmphFu12U3kMfBQdN8vt7dght16XW6SxIeR6uOgEYW1VKX7-ZprLwhopzDV4Q/s1600-h/churrasco.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw4T9M6dJDAovRsNpPoAOeG-ivpHHJckHWFzeVnEGakzCT2lhE6xR1toRBb8zpE36FKuROX_nwCl1Roa7NmphFu12U3kMfBQdN8vt7dght16XW6SxIeR6uOgEYW1VKX7-ZprLwhopzDV4Q/s200/churrasco.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085368558656200770" border="0" /></a><br />The day after we woke up a bit early, so we hooked up with Renato and Denise, another couple there for the weekend, and went around Teresopolis to see the town (we did try to enter the "selecao" training grounds). The town itself is uninteresting, with the drabness that many cities in the tropics have. Clearly, the calling card of the area are the forested mountains. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDZBLU8eofAl_y0cLppmwtRCBxCxNx2ymQwuQdBzK_QmT23V-lAwRFX04U-vJAHR7VZDWIJ3bBKK2PxBIcU6kiytSFmz28vwxvrIU8JDu8VBjT1vuETYBjdrISjXlrvnXnuff5FVF96a-F/s1600-h/teresopolis_brincadeira.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDZBLU8eofAl_y0cLppmwtRCBxCxNx2ymQwuQdBzK_QmT23V-lAwRFX04U-vJAHR7VZDWIJ3bBKK2PxBIcU6kiytSFmz28vwxvrIU8JDu8VBjT1vuETYBjdrISjXlrvnXnuff5FVF96a-F/s200/teresopolis_brincadeira.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085368648850514002" border="0" /></a>We then went back to the house for a churrasco and caipirinha (both excellent). A special mention to the "bridgadeiros", the small cup cakes that accompany the birthday cake: they are as delicious as they look pretty! The weather was rainy, and so the party was somewhat curtailed but the hospitality of these people (of german origin, with the whole family speaking fluent german) was wonderful. We came back to Rio with Renata and Sebastiao at night.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsi9kAa7UT0sIwqIRL3wezw-zwc_W2syaWpgUxf_K6iAoJ6f8uJbqLVlHFOOnKi8x8KthFPW43xr7U-D4UPVW5EBc8d48SkKP6TDyZO8E9swQCxHpjfK10wJ0A_AKfYwlI7njiWMA4H_Pz/s1600-h/teresopolis_trampolino.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsi9kAa7UT0sIwqIRL3wezw-zwc_W2syaWpgUxf_K6iAoJ6f8uJbqLVlHFOOnKi8x8KthFPW43xr7U-D4UPVW5EBc8d48SkKP6TDyZO8E9swQCxHpjfK10wJ0A_AKfYwlI7njiWMA4H_Pz/s320/teresopolis_trampolino.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085371453464158354" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a name="ITALIAN6"></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxQTRyafhYQeUEwifmPwXjjx-MgCHmqBw_VwXNOzrOKLkH9xAnzJ-UbuAP3YdPA_rMSZPdcTVn5J8XE42zkbXxdutK5hzijPf0tnxhqFPX9DIh49PScTW37MylacOczcb9yZgmqQLk1xaV/s1600-h/girls_teresopolis.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxQTRyafhYQeUEwifmPwXjjx-MgCHmqBw_VwXNOzrOKLkH9xAnzJ-UbuAP3YdPA_rMSZPdcTVn5J8XE42zkbXxdutK5hzijPf0tnxhqFPX9DIh49PScTW37MylacOczcb9yZgmqQLk1xaV/s320/girls_teresopolis.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085371358974877826" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />Una nota su Teresopolis prima che ci scordiamo completamente di quel viaggio, finora l' unica volta che siamo stati fuori Rio. Era una festa di compleanno, per la durata dell'intero weekend (19-20 maggio), per Helena, una delle bimbe in classe di Maria. La classe intera era stata invitata. I bimbi hanno passato la notte nella casa, e i genitori sono andati in motel.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLVv3ymgkWS_JdbXG-ejGoEZlE74OGiOPxaZrVIWID3_jG3Q9g4Xi2LBczFwQtJSKqzWGzKc_K7DEAQNtrH0Nf6dk3VYYYwBgMfNFpmBWkL55YmdHfOlTlbuo9gwTR4zNperu3prqPAusr/s1600-h/festa_famiglia.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLVv3ymgkWS_JdbXG-ejGoEZlE74OGiOPxaZrVIWID3_jG3Q9g4Xi2LBczFwQtJSKqzWGzKc_K7DEAQNtrH0Nf6dk3VYYYwBgMfNFpmBWkL55YmdHfOlTlbuo9gwTR4zNperu3prqPAusr/s200/festa_famiglia.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085362854939631634" border="0" /></a>Sabato comincio' con una festa della scuola a un parco vicino alla <a href="http://lifeinleblon.blogspot.com/2007/06/more-on-my-commute.html">laguna</a>. Il parco e' in realta' una favela sul fianco di una montagna, ora abbandonata e ricoperta dalla giungla. Uno si perde facilmente, data la pendenza del terreno e la fitta vegetazione (le bimbe sono riuscite a sparire nella giungla per piu' di un' ora). Centinaia di persone, inclusi alunni del passato recente e i loro genitori, erano presenti. C' era musica e un sacco di roba da mangiare.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPw6OspblpfCELIgYbrkQp5W2o12-3UVjGZ2kVYv4Y75ldy-_BChmknsBVIDK_xGLtAgNAhRRoWz3L8RlDe581oxcs-FX3TNPn8PtPclmkDEFFE6tljUeYQd2PQAZ-FfE7jxS3f4dK5UiK/s1600-h/monica_teresopolis.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPw6OspblpfCELIgYbrkQp5W2o12-3UVjGZ2kVYv4Y75ldy-_BChmknsBVIDK_xGLtAgNAhRRoWz3L8RlDe581oxcs-FX3TNPn8PtPclmkDEFFE6tljUeYQd2PQAZ-FfE7jxS3f4dK5UiK/s200/monica_teresopolis.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085363138407473186" border="0" /></a> Poi siamo partiti per Teresopolis con Renata e Sebastiao, genitori di Ligia, che ci avevano gentilmente offerto un passaggio (le bimbe hanno viaggiato in una macchina di sole bimbe). La strada, circa 130 km, sale sulle montagne dietro Rio. Sono incredibilmente ripide, con strapiombi spettacolari incorniciati sopra, sotto, e di fianco dalla mata atlantica (foresta atlantica). La strada passa attraverso un parco nazionale.<br /><br />Teresopolis era il ritiro estivo dell' imperatrice, mentre Petropolis li' vicino era il ritiro dell' imperatore. Quando Rio bolle nel caldo di febbraio, queste montagne mantengono una temperature accettabile. A causa del clima favorevole, Teresopolis e' conosciuta in tutto il Brasile come la Coverciano brasiliana, il posto dove la "Selecao" (il nome per cui tutti conoscono la nazionale brasiliana, allo stesso modo che noi usiamo "Azzurri") si allena. La settimana scorsa, con la Selecao che si preparava per la Copa America, il Canale 38 aveva continuo reportage da Teresopolis, ore e ore ogni sera.<br />Il Brasile ha perso la prima partita col Messico, facendo pure brutta figura. Hanno poi vinto la seconda, col Cile. Ad ogni modo l' Argentina, con il grande Juan Riquelme in posizione di regista, sembra imbattibile.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc1mB8u3JRvWcz8xevC8pmpy8F2SD8_gMz0NGAMiRTXmvJV1GOp__htoc4JlhWQYI8sJC9oDNYWhpCIlMOW2qQf0LmnK1y8dH7d9bL2ynVI22cUtyTmmcrYx1xjX3HddSQ3HluWaHNwxA4/s1600-h/teresopolis_porta.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc1mB8u3JRvWcz8xevC8pmpy8F2SD8_gMz0NGAMiRTXmvJV1GOp__htoc4JlhWQYI8sJC9oDNYWhpCIlMOW2qQf0LmnK1y8dH7d9bL2ynVI22cUtyTmmcrYx1xjX3HddSQ3HluWaHNwxA4/s200/teresopolis_porta.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085368253713522738" border="0" /></a>In Teresopolis, ci fu un pranzo a meta' pomeriggio con gli altri genitori che avevano fatto il viaggio. Sia la casa che la proprieta' erano bellissime, i nonni vivono li' ma c'e' un sacco di spazio per la famiglia, che passa tutti i weekend li'.<br />Ci fu un momento di panico quando i bimbi si sono chiusi in una camera e hanno rotto la maniglia. Il padre entro' dalla finestra attraverso il tetto, festeggiato dai bambini come un super-eroe venuto a salvarli. Piu' tardi siamo andati al nostro hotel per la notte, un bel posto, che era pure pulito ed economico.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw4T9M6dJDAovRsNpPoAOeG-ivpHHJckHWFzeVnEGakzCT2lhE6xR1toRBb8zpE36FKuROX_nwCl1Roa7NmphFu12U3kMfBQdN8vt7dght16XW6SxIeR6uOgEYW1VKX7-ZprLwhopzDV4Q/s1600-h/churrasco.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw4T9M6dJDAovRsNpPoAOeG-ivpHHJckHWFzeVnEGakzCT2lhE6xR1toRBb8zpE36FKuROX_nwCl1Roa7NmphFu12U3kMfBQdN8vt7dght16XW6SxIeR6uOgEYW1VKX7-ZprLwhopzDV4Q/s200/churrasco.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085368558656200770" border="0" /></a>Il giorno dopo ci siamo svegliati presto, e con Renato e Denise, un' altra coppia li' per il weekend, siamo andati a Teresopolis per vedere la citta'. La citta' in se' non e' interessante, possedendo il grigiore di molte citta' dei tropici. L' attrazione locale, chiaramente, sono le montagne. Siamo poi tornati alla casa della festeggiata per un "churrasco" (un barbecue brasiliano) e caipirinha, entrambi eccellenti.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDZBLU8eofAl_y0cLppmwtRCBxCxNx2ymQwuQdBzK_QmT23V-lAwRFX04U-vJAHR7VZDWIJ3bBKK2PxBIcU6kiytSFmz28vwxvrIU8JDu8VBjT1vuETYBjdrISjXlrvnXnuff5FVF96a-F/s1600-h/teresopolis_brincadeira.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDZBLU8eofAl_y0cLppmwtRCBxCxNx2ymQwuQdBzK_QmT23V-lAwRFX04U-vJAHR7VZDWIJ3bBKK2PxBIcU6kiytSFmz28vwxvrIU8JDu8VBjT1vuETYBjdrISjXlrvnXnuff5FVF96a-F/s200/teresopolis_brincadeira.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085368648850514002" border="0" /></a>Una menzione speciale ai dolcetti ("brigadeiros") che accompagnano il dolce di compleanno: buoni quanto belli! Pioveva, per cui non si poteva stare fuori, ma l' ospitalita' di questa gente (di origine tedesca, con tutti che parlavano tedesco bene o perfettamente) era incredibile. A sera, siamo tornati a rio con Renata e Sebastiao.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsi9kAa7UT0sIwqIRL3wezw-zwc_W2syaWpgUxf_K6iAoJ6f8uJbqLVlHFOOnKi8x8KthFPW43xr7U-D4UPVW5EBc8d48SkKP6TDyZO8E9swQCxHpjfK10wJ0A_AKfYwlI7njiWMA4H_Pz/s1600-h/teresopolis_trampolino.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsi9kAa7UT0sIwqIRL3wezw-zwc_W2syaWpgUxf_K6iAoJ6f8uJbqLVlHFOOnKi8x8KthFPW43xr7U-D4UPVW5EBc8d48SkKP6TDyZO8E9swQCxHpjfK10wJ0A_AKfYwlI7njiWMA4H_Pz/s320/teresopolis_trampolino.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085371453464158354" border="0" /></a>Monica, Maria, Giovannihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10405831812151522517noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2104461867688933676.post-38729658303884466172007-07-02T14:28:00.000-07:002007-07-09T18:21:07.615-07:00Festa Junina<a href="#ITALIAN5"> <b>(in italiano)</b></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix1smJfOkQLRbz9fv-_TObVvkzoBaqVfbbi0BbLlWLdrXdsPJn3EIsjNP2LxD_z40MD9NK0fNrEkb1qZMtMawBN_U44msXetzNW-MjZ7AQq20Yoav-zOPTUq5H66TL3svBXVbeChqyT7M3/s1600-h/doll.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix1smJfOkQLRbz9fv-_TObVvkzoBaqVfbbi0BbLlWLdrXdsPJn3EIsjNP2LxD_z40MD9NK0fNrEkb1qZMtMawBN_U44msXetzNW-MjZ7AQq20Yoav-zOPTUq5H66TL3svBXVbeChqyT7M3/s200/doll.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5083524029116358578" /></a> A holiday that combines three saints days (St John, Sts Peter and Paul and St. Anthony) with the winter solstice, Festa Junina involves girls and boys dressing like peasant girls and boys. The girls, in their traditional dresses, look like dolls. Maria and her gang decided on a less traditional look. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqeIN05I6XxKSphyphenhyphenjlPWCsRikh23lQ1e9DAmZ-Mw7ZrW-8Cr4jfpQiOWgTRvS9ZRxOKYpPMBA2tQ6Pu98WWcA0zG8t76q_mQlVCKuU2RseVm5i0cLQHqC9XXPryUJ-lfDx4X97Anoeb8J4/s1600-h/pole_dance.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqeIN05I6XxKSphyphenhyphenjlPWCsRikh23lQ1e9DAmZ-Mw7ZrW-8Cr4jfpQiOWgTRvS9ZRxOKYpPMBA2tQ6Pu98WWcA0zG8t76q_mQlVCKuU2RseVm5i0cLQHqC9XXPryUJ-lfDx4X97Anoeb8J4/s200/pole_dance.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5083525678383800258" /></a><br />Her class, the "big kids" of the school, danced with ribbons around a pole. The choice of partners was, as expected, charged with tension (how would you like to choose or to be chosen at age 10 by an opposite sex kid as his/her partner in a dance in front of the whole school) but everydoby survived!<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcZBMcYAIHEN-rU5nE2lz3scHFUp6shdJpNFrT6A-aIowtZNqJOjE9Msz8Qr6XqwkP33IJKSvaDcHBaEM___Dmr-JUsBfZtOqED64wmO5J5ZwfqyHAl_UPqDz_QxbESq3SlRORCRgPLlx9/s1600-h/banda_festa_junina.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcZBMcYAIHEN-rU5nE2lz3scHFUp6shdJpNFrT6A-aIowtZNqJOjE9Msz8Qr6XqwkP33IJKSvaDcHBaEM___Dmr-JUsBfZtOqED64wmO5J5ZwfqyHAl_UPqDz_QxbESq3SlRORCRgPLlx9/s200/banda_festa_junina.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5083527593939214322" /></a> Festa Junina is clearly a day when anybody playing any instrument will get to work (there were Festas everywhere in the buildings nearby, and in Copa on the beach). Monica and I went to the school around 6pm to take pictures and see the sight. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfAQBX23aw8ZwwoXkKmL5yo9p4jw9pM_H3eEJcmrKkNDEn6eQqzNbpQydXmQicn6z8AM4lxrqvfLpf2tNbv6oBLRDQmJ7Jys0QY4z_je3gn41k-7L92aUqf2Js0qYfiXWZmh1vrxf2IwZ7/s1600-h/festa_junina.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfAQBX23aw8ZwwoXkKmL5yo9p4jw9pM_H3eEJcmrKkNDEn6eQqzNbpQydXmQicn6z8AM4lxrqvfLpf2tNbv6oBLRDQmJ7Jys0QY4z_je3gn41k-7L92aUqf2Js0qYfiXWZmh1vrxf2IwZ7/s200/festa_junina.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085328353467342850" /></a>The brazilian festas are always successful, they are cheerful, nice, and unpretentious. Boys and girls, teachers, and parents danced in the school's yard. <a href="http://lifeinleblon.blogspot.com/2007/06/marias-school.html">I danced with the principal</a>. At the end Maria, in her "seemingly" bad portuguese, managed to organize a 4-girls sleepover at Ligia's place and to stay there all day the day after.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a name="ITALIAN5"></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix1smJfOkQLRbz9fv-_TObVvkzoBaqVfbbi0BbLlWLdrXdsPJn3EIsjNP2LxD_z40MD9NK0fNrEkb1qZMtMawBN_U44msXetzNW-MjZ7AQq20Yoav-zOPTUq5H66TL3svBXVbeChqyT7M3/s1600-h/doll.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix1smJfOkQLRbz9fv-_TObVvkzoBaqVfbbi0BbLlWLdrXdsPJn3EIsjNP2LxD_z40MD9NK0fNrEkb1qZMtMawBN_U44msXetzNW-MjZ7AQq20Yoav-zOPTUq5H66TL3svBXVbeChqyT7M3/s200/doll.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5083524029116358578" /></a> La Festa Junina combina tre santi importanti (San Giovanni Apostolo, SS. Pietro e Paolo e San Antonio) con il solstizio d' inverno. E' una festa dove bimbe e bimbi, vestiti in costumi rurali tradizionali, ballano la quadriglia e fanni giochi da fiera paesana. Le bimbe sembrano bambole. Maria e la sua gang hanno deciso di avere un look meno tradizionale e piu' zingaresco. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqeIN05I6XxKSphyphenhyphenjlPWCsRikh23lQ1e9DAmZ-Mw7ZrW-8Cr4jfpQiOWgTRvS9ZRxOKYpPMBA2tQ6Pu98WWcA0zG8t76q_mQlVCKuU2RseVm5i0cLQHqC9XXPryUJ-lfDx4X97Anoeb8J4/s1600-h/pole_dance.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqeIN05I6XxKSphyphenhyphenjlPWCsRikh23lQ1e9DAmZ-Mw7ZrW-8Cr4jfpQiOWgTRvS9ZRxOKYpPMBA2tQ6Pu98WWcA0zG8t76q_mQlVCKuU2RseVm5i0cLQHqC9XXPryUJ-lfDx4X97Anoeb8J4/s200/pole_dance.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5083525678383800258" /></a> La sua classe, i piu' grandi della scuola, hanno ballato a coppie intrecciando nastri attorno ad un palo. C'e' stata un po' di "tensione" al momento di decidere chi doveva fare coppia con chi, ma alla fine tutto si e' risolto.<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcZBMcYAIHEN-rU5nE2lz3scHFUp6shdJpNFrT6A-aIowtZNqJOjE9Msz8Qr6XqwkP33IJKSvaDcHBaEM___Dmr-JUsBfZtOqED64wmO5J5ZwfqyHAl_UPqDz_QxbESq3SlRORCRgPLlx9/s1600-h/banda_festa_junina.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcZBMcYAIHEN-rU5nE2lz3scHFUp6shdJpNFrT6A-aIowtZNqJOjE9Msz8Qr6XqwkP33IJKSvaDcHBaEM___Dmr-JUsBfZtOqED64wmO5J5ZwfqyHAl_UPqDz_QxbESq3SlRORCRgPLlx9/s200/banda_festa_junina.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5083527593939214322" /></a> Per la Festa Junina, chiunque sappia suonare un qualsiasi strumento trova da lavorare (c'erano feste nei palazzi vicini, e a Copacabana in spiaggia). Io e Monica siamo andati alle 18 alla scuola, a fare foto. Le feste brasiliane riescono sempre bene, sono simpatiche, allegre, e non pretenziose. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfAQBX23aw8ZwwoXkKmL5yo9p4jw9pM_H3eEJcmrKkNDEn6eQqzNbpQydXmQicn6z8AM4lxrqvfLpf2tNbv6oBLRDQmJ7Jys0QY4z_je3gn41k-7L92aUqf2Js0qYfiXWZmh1vrxf2IwZ7/s1600-h/festa_junina.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfAQBX23aw8ZwwoXkKmL5yo9p4jw9pM_H3eEJcmrKkNDEn6eQqzNbpQydXmQicn6z8AM4lxrqvfLpf2tNbv6oBLRDQmJ7Jys0QY4z_je3gn41k-7L92aUqf2Js0qYfiXWZmh1vrxf2IwZ7/s200/festa_junina.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085328353467342850" /></a>Bambini, maestre, e genitori hanno ballato nel cortile della scuola. <a href="http://lifeinleblon.blogspot.com/2007/06/marias-school.html">Io ho ballato con la direttrice</a>. Alla fine Maria, nonostante il suo povero portoghese, ha organizzato uno sleepover su due piedi: 4 bimbe a casa di Ligia, dove e poi e' rimasta tutto il giorno dopo.Monica, Maria, Giovannihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10405831812151522517noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2104461867688933676.post-5336330067041556032007-06-27T18:05:00.000-07:002007-07-04T18:44:29.672-07:00Maria's school<a href="#ITALIAN4"> <b>(in italiano)</b></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAGxtL07bHBqyQC13vLSPAstJu_5lLuinl9kqltueo6P_XTrj-dF5uQYsFbcSspXio3xSeffaDbkX44HpCXSgQO9SYnnCiwTgeoCOSR7Fw7MdXIa8WNqGko_KMaE5RcvwuKd4xfMQo63KD/s1600-h/espaco.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAGxtL07bHBqyQC13vLSPAstJu_5lLuinl9kqltueo6P_XTrj-dF5uQYsFbcSspXio3xSeffaDbkX44HpCXSgQO9SYnnCiwTgeoCOSR7Fw7MdXIa8WNqGko_KMaE5RcvwuKd4xfMQo63KD/s200/espaco.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5083061104656293586" /></a> With our visa problems probably out of the way, there will be now a flurry of posts. First, Maria's school. Recommended by a colleague, it is in a small building in Leblon, squeezed between two highrises. There is only one class per grade, with 16-20 students per class (Maria's has 17). The preschoolers go to school in the morning and the 1st-5th graders go from 12:45 to 17:15. <br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgywBhrMSdA45fRyXlUmzVDsrvdu9MCCrw5IF4FL3yhn9zZAoAKots3Fprz8vWg9JkpOjEAB-reOflZVq-7AZ27T1nGF4EpPuSxjD8PCiaGEmAR-U0vCHQKt6F_Vfqzbazi4KXxqcNU3x0D/s1600-h/giovanni_leda.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgywBhrMSdA45fRyXlUmzVDsrvdu9MCCrw5IF4FL3yhn9zZAoAKots3Fprz8vWg9JkpOjEAB-reOflZVq-7AZ27T1nGF4EpPuSxjD8PCiaGEmAR-U0vCHQKt6F_Vfqzbazi4KXxqcNU3x0D/s200/giovanni_leda.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5083065412508491506" /></a>The school (a private one) was founded when some parents found a place and some startup money for a principal that they liked a lot. Her name is Dona Leda de Castro Pellegrini (here dancing with Giovanni at the Festa Junina), of italian descent, as many here. She clearly handpicked every person working there (see picture of the cook and the gate-keeper, Ricardo, at then end of this post), and everyone at the school projects a friendly, cheery attitude. Maria was made comfortable right away. The people at Espaco Educacao also take their job very seriously, which is why this school is so good. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXNjVnQ4gAkIKl3r3ioiVtM97kJTpL0x4YmaqleKcT8p2R0CAXCA6TbH6E7ZkR8S6C1jC1rreRxPbq-CykUA-41OeoNuSwKLt5bJ5weh-oNGKbbxYi5hgdFtqfgVaJ1_xl_9fVAWRbm1FS/s1600-h/cortile.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXNjVnQ4gAkIKl3r3ioiVtM97kJTpL0x4YmaqleKcT8p2R0CAXCA6TbH6E7ZkR8S6C1jC1rreRxPbq-CykUA-41OeoNuSwKLt5bJ5weh-oNGKbbxYi5hgdFtqfgVaJ1_xl_9fVAWRbm1FS/s200/cortile.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5083093256781471490" /></a><br />The school has a small courtyard that functions as the social center, protected by a wall. Ricardo, one of the few men working there, is always greeting you at the small entrance gate and making sure that only accompanied kids leave the perimeter of the school. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmlt9VAZ03NR8R7ljjdfC15M5HOx_w3tzKNFum2jFPdYiVzqhWLQbeUACaxmb1eXenq7kVUsKUmGnSBID11w7VCT68QagrWFKhrgKOMhyphenhyphenL8ODYr2_FlKppeTXJjRdVU_q3GP0Q3ezLceK-/s1600-h/school_inside.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmlt9VAZ03NR8R7ljjdfC15M5HOx_w3tzKNFum2jFPdYiVzqhWLQbeUACaxmb1eXenq7kVUsKUmGnSBID11w7VCT68QagrWFKhrgKOMhyphenhyphenL8ODYr2_FlKppeTXJjRdVU_q3GP0Q3ezLceK-/s200/school_inside.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5083061190555639522" /></a>In the courtyard there is recess, any fest or party (and there are lots!), and it is the place where parents wait for their children (the classrooms, a couple of offices, and the library are upstairs). The parents, at least in Maria's class, are very involved. By now we know 60% of them quite well (a few are coming over for dinner friday). The whole class is invited to the birthday party of every student.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiME8n5-Wxxu7eQR3XGtp3ibAOcJCbGXMdqocFKB1eYo_rJrzflWEicOUdi_Vq1aMVaTX417C9WIGKKl_0EBenCTQKJQYE8G0X7qea-f63mQRz3mHIdiw2_qIqhNGwARjr9e06ICNZ9hnBH/s1600-h/maria_dora.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiME8n5-Wxxu7eQR3XGtp3ibAOcJCbGXMdqocFKB1eYo_rJrzflWEicOUdi_Vq1aMVaTX417C9WIGKKl_0EBenCTQKJQYE8G0X7qea-f63mQRz3mHIdiw2_qIqhNGwARjr9e06ICNZ9hnBH/s200/maria_dora.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5083498723169050482" /></a> As I was saying before, Maria was welcome quite nicely. The first girl she met, Dora, asked Maria to sit next to her and started showing her the school five minutes after we arrived there! Her teacher, Ana, (her picture, dressed up as a witch at the school Family Party, is also at the end of this post) speaks some English. Two of the girls in Maria's class speak very good English (despite neither having ever left Brazil) and translate things when Maria does not understand. By now, Maria is best friends with one of them, Isi. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSd3wG1xVTLOrC7mYSwAsrcIUMlshl2NKyUolukHJerq65D34TT1K1dhPFOr0qrv6PyeL2Koqz2-ZQJlD0BM4LfB9VSuSpUjY5XwX8KDf4Pun77WrrkCOtmZ2nMjwKiTKI-mA5zilfhWGU/s1600-h/maria_isi_2.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSd3wG1xVTLOrC7mYSwAsrcIUMlshl2NKyUolukHJerq65D34TT1K1dhPFOr0qrv6PyeL2Koqz2-ZQJlD0BM4LfB9VSuSpUjY5XwX8KDf4Pun77WrrkCOtmZ2nMjwKiTKI-mA5zilfhWGU/s200/maria_isi_2.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5083506621613907858" /></a><br />A few days after Maria arrived, the mother of one of girls, who is also the teacher of Theatre at the school, took Maria and the two girls out for pizza. After a few weeks, Dona Leda called us in, told us that Maria had progressed nicely and told us to buy textbooks etc. Maria does not speak portuguese but she understands it, and she has been doing regular homework for 3 weeks now. Maria has had three sleepovers already, certain things are the same here or in the US. According to her, boys here are a lot nicer than in the US, though she still prefers girls.<br /><br />Espaco Educacao is a jewel of Brazilian civilization. It is a big relief for everyone that Maria is happy and well taken care of here.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYw3QK5Ldor1ISYC8pgGxwzVeH9agfh1jnhSr1Ynl80xwUNs9CHzGSU5bDPKLURDVny6dbfm4PbJ4YQwWGDK8zC0bmjtoU5S8T_ZJgBImIcDUlSPAfdVE2UVOXY4NfFznds49bDMX4D7Kg/s1600-h/cook.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYw3QK5Ldor1ISYC8pgGxwzVeH9agfh1jnhSr1Ynl80xwUNs9CHzGSU5bDPKLURDVny6dbfm4PbJ4YQwWGDK8zC0bmjtoU5S8T_ZJgBImIcDUlSPAfdVE2UVOXY4NfFznds49bDMX4D7Kg/s200/cook.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5083094102890028818" /></a> <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiiw_pJC4MApvgzLSHUrbRsjK6faZu0ioGl4rSaf3sMugZFm67RqK_tN6Pvww2honB5IBWcOEAzLUWlmWFXrJ8DJhpGyAz0LSUUIPFvQaHDVk9aV1oRTMvrIWNfuWuA5F44P56XpIHwLFU/s1600-h/IMG_0399.JPG"><img style="float:right; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiiw_pJC4MApvgzLSHUrbRsjK6faZu0ioGl4rSaf3sMugZFm67RqK_tN6Pvww2honB5IBWcOEAzLUWlmWFXrJ8DJhpGyAz0LSUUIPFvQaHDVk9aV1oRTMvrIWNfuWuA5F44P56XpIHwLFU/s200/IMG_0399.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5083163921878392674" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9RAN-JNf8fWXbtaPKCzGllV7NocMjCemus9eirBoB76DwJN4KNW-phC5vb5xdC_47gZe8Bh4nc5HHUtfhGeULHHBKd2FETomWiPf_9dg537r0qkUPg4nzCDLDfcsNOV2ItnL26SdRs6kJ/s1600-h/ana.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9RAN-JNf8fWXbtaPKCzGllV7NocMjCemus9eirBoB76DwJN4KNW-phC5vb5xdC_47gZe8Bh4nc5HHUtfhGeULHHBKd2FETomWiPf_9dg537r0qkUPg4nzCDLDfcsNOV2ItnL26SdRs6kJ/s200/ana.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5083507489197301666" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a name="ITALIAN4"></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAGxtL07bHBqyQC13vLSPAstJu_5lLuinl9kqltueo6P_XTrj-dF5uQYsFbcSspXio3xSeffaDbkX44HpCXSgQO9SYnnCiwTgeoCOSR7Fw7MdXIa8WNqGko_KMaE5RcvwuKd4xfMQo63KD/s1600-h/espaco.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAGxtL07bHBqyQC13vLSPAstJu_5lLuinl9kqltueo6P_XTrj-dF5uQYsFbcSspXio3xSeffaDbkX44HpCXSgQO9SYnnCiwTgeoCOSR7Fw7MdXIa8WNqGko_KMaE5RcvwuKd4xfMQo63KD/s200/espaco.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5083061104656293586" /></a> Con i nostri problemi di visto probabilmente risolti, ora metteremo il blog in ordine. Per prima cosa, la scuola di Maria. L'abbiamo scelta in base a una raccomandazione di un collega. E' in un piccolo edificio in Leblon, stretto fra due grattacieli. C'e' una sola classe per anno, con 16-20 studenti (quella di Maria ne ha 17). Le classi d'asilo vanno a scuola la mattina, e le elementari, inclusa quella di Maria, dalle 12:45 alle 17:15.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgywBhrMSdA45fRyXlUmzVDsrvdu9MCCrw5IF4FL3yhn9zZAoAKots3Fprz8vWg9JkpOjEAB-reOflZVq-7AZ27T1nGF4EpPuSxjD8PCiaGEmAR-U0vCHQKt6F_Vfqzbazi4KXxqcNU3x0D/s1600-h/giovanni_leda.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgywBhrMSdA45fRyXlUmzVDsrvdu9MCCrw5IF4FL3yhn9zZAoAKots3Fprz8vWg9JkpOjEAB-reOflZVq-7AZ27T1nGF4EpPuSxjD8PCiaGEmAR-U0vCHQKt6F_Vfqzbazi4KXxqcNU3x0D/s200/giovanni_leda.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5083065412508491506" /></a><br />La scuola (privata) fu fondata quando alcuni genitori trovarono il posto e i finanziamenti iniziali per una preside che consideravano eccellente. Il suo nome e' Dona Leda de Castro Pellegrini (qui fotografata che balla con Giovanni Festa Junina), di discendenza italiana come molti qui . Lei ha assunto ogni persona li' (potete vedere foto della cuoca e di Ricardo, il portiere, alla fine di questo post) e tutti alla scuola hanno un' attitudine amichevole e accogliente. Maria e' stata accolta molto bene. La gente a Espaco Educacao lavora con passione.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXNjVnQ4gAkIKl3r3ioiVtM97kJTpL0x4YmaqleKcT8p2R0CAXCA6TbH6E7ZkR8S6C1jC1rreRxPbq-CykUA-41OeoNuSwKLt5bJ5weh-oNGKbbxYi5hgdFtqfgVaJ1_xl_9fVAWRbm1FS/s1600-h/cortile.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXNjVnQ4gAkIKl3r3ioiVtM97kJTpL0x4YmaqleKcT8p2R0CAXCA6TbH6E7ZkR8S6C1jC1rreRxPbq-CykUA-41OeoNuSwKLt5bJ5weh-oNGKbbxYi5hgdFtqfgVaJ1_xl_9fVAWRbm1FS/s200/cortile.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5083093256781471490" /></a>La scuola ha un piccolo cortile che funziona come centro sociale, protetto da un muro di cinta. Ricardo, uno dei pochi uomini che lavorano li', fa' di guardia cancello e si assicura che nessun bimbo non accompagnata lasci la scuola. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmlt9VAZ03NR8R7ljjdfC15M5HOx_w3tzKNFum2jFPdYiVzqhWLQbeUACaxmb1eXenq7kVUsKUmGnSBID11w7VCT68QagrWFKhrgKOMhyphenhyphenL8ODYr2_FlKppeTXJjRdVU_q3GP0Q3ezLceK-/s1600-h/school_inside.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmlt9VAZ03NR8R7ljjdfC15M5HOx_w3tzKNFum2jFPdYiVzqhWLQbeUACaxmb1eXenq7kVUsKUmGnSBID11w7VCT68QagrWFKhrgKOMhyphenhyphenL8ODYr2_FlKppeTXJjRdVU_q3GP0Q3ezLceK-/s200/school_inside.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5083061190555639522" /></a>Nel cortile c'e' ricreazione, il coro della scuola, le feste, ed e' dove i genitori aspettano gli scolari (le tre aule, un paio di uffici, e una piccola biblioteca sono di sopra). I genitori, almeno nella classe di Maria, sono molto coinvolti. A questo punto conosciamo il 60% di loro bene (alcuni vengono qui a cena venerdi'). Tutta la classe e' invitata ai compleanni di ogni studente.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiME8n5-Wxxu7eQR3XGtp3ibAOcJCbGXMdqocFKB1eYo_rJrzflWEicOUdi_Vq1aMVaTX417C9WIGKKl_0EBenCTQKJQYE8G0X7qea-f63mQRz3mHIdiw2_qIqhNGwARjr9e06ICNZ9hnBH/s1600-h/maria_dora.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiME8n5-Wxxu7eQR3XGtp3ibAOcJCbGXMdqocFKB1eYo_rJrzflWEicOUdi_Vq1aMVaTX417C9WIGKKl_0EBenCTQKJQYE8G0X7qea-f63mQRz3mHIdiw2_qIqhNGwARjr9e06ICNZ9hnBH/s200/maria_dora.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5083498723169050482" /></a> Come dicevo prima, Maria e' stat accolta molto bene. Cinque minuti dopo che era arrivata la scula, una bimba nella sua classe Dora le stava gia' mostrando la scuola e le aveva chiesto se si voleva sedere vicino a lei quel giorno! La sua insegnante, Ana, (vedi la sua foto vestita da strega alla Festa della Famiglia, pure in basso) parla un po' d'inglese. Due delle bimbe parlano un inglese ottimo anche se non hanno mai lasciato il Brasile, e Maria e' diventata milgiore amica con una di loro, Isadora. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSd3wG1xVTLOrC7mYSwAsrcIUMlshl2NKyUolukHJerq65D34TT1K1dhPFOr0qrv6PyeL2Koqz2-ZQJlD0BM4LfB9VSuSpUjY5XwX8KDf4Pun77WrrkCOtmZ2nMjwKiTKI-mA5zilfhWGU/s1600-h/maria_isi_2.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSd3wG1xVTLOrC7mYSwAsrcIUMlshl2NKyUolukHJerq65D34TT1K1dhPFOr0qrv6PyeL2Koqz2-ZQJlD0BM4LfB9VSuSpUjY5XwX8KDf4Pun77WrrkCOtmZ2nMjwKiTKI-mA5zilfhWGU/s200/maria_isi_2.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5083506621613907858" /></a> Alcuni giorni dopo che Maria e' arrivata, la madre di una delle bimbe, che e' anche l'insegnanti di Teatro della scuola, ha portato Maria e le due bimbe fuori a mangiare la pizza. Dopo alcune settimane Dona Leda ci ha chiamato, ci ha detto che Maria stava progredendo, e ci ha fatto comprare libri di testo etc. maria non parla portoghese ma lo capisce, e ora fa i compiti a casa come gli altri da circa tre settimane. Maria ha gia' dormito a casa delle sue amiche tre volte, certe cose sono come in America. Lei dice che qui i maschietti sono molto piu' carini che in America, ma continua preferire le bimbe.<br /><br />Espaco e' un gioiello della civilizzazione brasiliana. E' un sollievo che Maria sia contenta e sia in buone mani qui.<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYw3QK5Ldor1ISYC8pgGxwzVeH9agfh1jnhSr1Ynl80xwUNs9CHzGSU5bDPKLURDVny6dbfm4PbJ4YQwWGDK8zC0bmjtoU5S8T_ZJgBImIcDUlSPAfdVE2UVOXY4NfFznds49bDMX4D7Kg/s1600-h/cook.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYw3QK5Ldor1ISYC8pgGxwzVeH9agfh1jnhSr1Ynl80xwUNs9CHzGSU5bDPKLURDVny6dbfm4PbJ4YQwWGDK8zC0bmjtoU5S8T_ZJgBImIcDUlSPAfdVE2UVOXY4NfFznds49bDMX4D7Kg/s200/cook.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5083094102890028818" /></a> <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiiw_pJC4MApvgzLSHUrbRsjK6faZu0ioGl4rSaf3sMugZFm67RqK_tN6Pvww2honB5IBWcOEAzLUWlmWFXrJ8DJhpGyAz0LSUUIPFvQaHDVk9aV1oRTMvrIWNfuWuA5F44P56XpIHwLFU/s1600-h/IMG_0399.JPG"><img style="float:right; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiiw_pJC4MApvgzLSHUrbRsjK6faZu0ioGl4rSaf3sMugZFm67RqK_tN6Pvww2honB5IBWcOEAzLUWlmWFXrJ8DJhpGyAz0LSUUIPFvQaHDVk9aV1oRTMvrIWNfuWuA5F44P56XpIHwLFU/s200/IMG_0399.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5083163921878392674" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9RAN-JNf8fWXbtaPKCzGllV7NocMjCemus9eirBoB76DwJN4KNW-phC5vb5xdC_47gZe8Bh4nc5HHUtfhGeULHHBKd2FETomWiPf_9dg537r0qkUPg4nzCDLDfcsNOV2ItnL26SdRs6kJ/s1600-h/ana.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9RAN-JNf8fWXbtaPKCzGllV7NocMjCemus9eirBoB76DwJN4KNW-phC5vb5xdC_47gZe8Bh4nc5HHUtfhGeULHHBKd2FETomWiPf_9dg537r0qkUPg4nzCDLDfcsNOV2ItnL26SdRs6kJ/s200/ana.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5083507489197301666" /></a>Monica, Maria, Giovannihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10405831812151522517noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2104461867688933676.post-13394097355342765212007-06-17T14:28:00.000-07:002007-06-23T11:30:22.224-07:00Life on a bike<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhamYChkyq5khfydbB63wbZN-3takY2IksC6JAB76s8L-QO-3DXfu-EHAap_Y66M-lSvKuWSUn76nd-8YwS-CujDjOLSrjS1bsvXEqHnIGoX1xqWvjV_Zx5pX7yV7FHjcXxgD7myiuNtvo8/s1600-h/sidewalk.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; <br />cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhamYChkyq5khfydbB63wbZN-3takY2IksC6JAB76s8L-QO-3DXfu-EHAap_Y66M-lSvKuWSUn76nd-8YwS-CujDjOLSrjS1bsvXEqHnIGoX1xqWvjV_Zx5pX7yV7FHjcXxgD7myiuNtvo8/s320/sidewalk.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5079319991315645490" /></a><br /><br /><a href="#ITALIAN3"> <b>(in italiano)</b></a><br /><br />One more post on the commute. In those 25 minutes on the bike lane (another 20 are spent getting to and fro, changing clothes, and retrieving the bike), I tan, exercise, admire <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roberto_Burle_Marx">art</a>, and get to see the world. I have lost about a pound a week since here, a combination of the early heat, low fat diet, and the biking and walking all over town (I have stabilized now, with the onset of cold weather, and average temperatures around 80F during the day. Possibly I will resume weight loss when spring comes).<br /><br />Commuting by bike is not the only option. But getting a car might take one year of paperwork, and the commute by car from Leblon to Urca is slower than the commute by bike. I am guessing 45 minutes on the road (during rush hour, it can be much faster during off hours). In the morning on Avenida Atlantica, I glide past them. By bus (rush hour) or by walking anytime it takes about 80 minutes. By taxi it can be 20-25 minutes, and it only costs 18 reais, but it is not something you want to do every day. We came to Leblon so as to be close to Maria's school, but from here bicycling is the fastest, cheapest option.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwym9uisHM-SOWj6ypJGy8HQyHmDJsJnpO_J5RKEeAtOpHIWBr4GTt0M3m8_-E6MTTzG8pSynL-gDOaqY9YZ5H0AN53VoTn0vkj05GGB-s-FZQ20jk20wqvmPhD4KD_vWCVJVmzOdyw4Gs/s1600-h/dog_walk.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwym9uisHM-SOWj6ypJGy8HQyHmDJsJnpO_J5RKEeAtOpHIWBr4GTt0M3m8_-E6MTTzG8pSynL-gDOaqY9YZ5H0AN53VoTn0vkj05GGB-s-FZQ20jk20wqvmPhD4KD_vWCVJVmzOdyw4Gs/s200/dog_walk.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5079325398679471170" /></a><br />And I must say that I could do this indefinitely. One has no idea of how much is lost in those hours in the car in Michigan. In a sense, bicycling and walking are the natural forms of transportation. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1oApvKujzRL4FhxT3hLkaE3aam-tNGUMMUAYn2POZndEeYd5KLWkw7HanADX2Kw3e6X_LSf3_1XVixYMfY_bGg6lj1T0jPSF8b_cnsBdRD8KfupjAapd_2QDptIhXPPTmenWbTrOJg08D/s1600-h/lagoa_redentor.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1oApvKujzRL4FhxT3hLkaE3aam-tNGUMMUAYn2POZndEeYd5KLWkw7HanADX2Kw3e6X_LSf3_1XVixYMfY_bGg6lj1T0jPSF8b_cnsBdRD8KfupjAapd_2QDptIhXPPTmenWbTrOJg08D/s200/lagoa_redentor.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5079326034334630994" /></a>They enrich and complete your day, whereas a car takes away money, time, and energy. Today we went to visit a colleague, who has three labrador retrievers and a parrot which may interest Maria. He lives behind the Jardin Botanico. With the bikes, and Maria riding with me on the cross bar, we were there in 20 minutes. We came home along the Lagoa des Freitas (Lagoon), in a beatiful day, in postcard scenery with view of the Christo Redentor and surrounded by cariocas out to stroll (millions of them). <br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiglCEaqjHa1shyphenhyphenYBoBFupsEHipm-POAR2RJr4SObwS4kcbnK2EP384ixaNWhmXJFCNY8GCM_0CwebZl5I7N43obUyBC1qZY9x_vdG4y0EsgZnGNgbRapAHzuOvUexZOAooMr5F-AyxHHU1/s1600-h/sunday_walk.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiglCEaqjHa1shyphenhyphenYBoBFupsEHipm-POAR2RJr4SObwS4kcbnK2EP384ixaNWhmXJFCNY8GCM_0CwebZl5I7N43obUyBC1qZY9x_vdG4y0EsgZnGNgbRapAHzuOvUexZOAooMr5F-AyxHHU1/s320/sunday_walk.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5079328272012592242" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a name="ITALIAN3"></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhamYChkyq5khfydbB63wbZN-3takY2IksC6JAB76s8L-QO-3DXfu-EHAap_Y66M-lSvKuWSUn76nd-8YwS-CujDjOLSrjS1bsvXEqHnIGoX1xqWvjV_Zx5pX7yV7FHjcXxgD7myiuNtvo8/s1600-h/sidewalk.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; <br />cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhamYChkyq5khfydbB63wbZN-3takY2IksC6JAB76s8L-QO-3DXfu-EHAap_Y66M-lSvKuWSUn76nd-8YwS-CujDjOLSrjS1bsvXEqHnIGoX1xqWvjV_Zx5pX7yV7FHjcXxgD7myiuNtvo8/s320/sidewalk.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5079319991315645490" /></a><br /><br />Ancora un post sul mio viaggio al lavoro. In quei 25 minuti sulla pista ciclabile (un altri 20 minuti sono spesi per arrivarci, per cambiare vestiti, e per recuperare la bici) mi abbronzo, faccio esercizio, ammiro un <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roberto_Burle_Marx">pezzo d'arte</a> e vedo il mondo. Ho perso circa 1 kilo ogni due settimane da quando siamo qui, una combinazione del caldo iniziale, dieta magra, e tutto il camminare e pedalare (mi sono stabilizzato ora che fa freddo, con una temperature media durante il giorno di 26 gradi. Possibilmente ricomincero' a perdere peso in primavera).<br /><br />Andare al lavoro in bici non e' la sola possibilita'. Ma ottenere una macchina puo' prendere un anno di scartoffie, e comunque fa Leblon a Urca in ora di punta e' 45 minuti di strada (in altre ore puo' essere molto piu' veloce). Su Avenida Atlantica in Copa, li passo mentre loro sono fermi in coda. Bus ora di punta o camminare sono 80 minuti. Taxi sono 20-25 minuti e 18 reais, ma non e' una cosa che si puo' fare tutti i giorni. Siamo venuti a Leblon per essere vicini alla scuola di Maria, ma da qui a Urca la bicicletta e' chiaramente il modo migliore per viaggiare.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwym9uisHM-SOWj6ypJGy8HQyHmDJsJnpO_J5RKEeAtOpHIWBr4GTt0M3m8_-E6MTTzG8pSynL-gDOaqY9YZ5H0AN53VoTn0vkj05GGB-s-FZQ20jk20wqvmPhD4KD_vWCVJVmzOdyw4Gs/s1600-h/dog_walk.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwym9uisHM-SOWj6ypJGy8HQyHmDJsJnpO_J5RKEeAtOpHIWBr4GTt0M3m8_-E6MTTzG8pSynL-gDOaqY9YZ5H0AN53VoTn0vkj05GGB-s-FZQ20jk20wqvmPhD4KD_vWCVJVmzOdyw4Gs/s200/dog_walk.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5079325398679471170" /></a>E devo dire che potrei continuare a farlo indefinitamente. Uno non ha idea di quanto uno perda in quelle ore passate in macchina in Michigan. In un certo senso, pedalare e camminare sono le forme naturali di trasporto. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1oApvKujzRL4FhxT3hLkaE3aam-tNGUMMUAYn2POZndEeYd5KLWkw7HanADX2Kw3e6X_LSf3_1XVixYMfY_bGg6lj1T0jPSF8b_cnsBdRD8KfupjAapd_2QDptIhXPPTmenWbTrOJg08D/s1600-h/lagoa_redentor.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1oApvKujzRL4FhxT3hLkaE3aam-tNGUMMUAYn2POZndEeYd5KLWkw7HanADX2Kw3e6X_LSf3_1XVixYMfY_bGg6lj1T0jPSF8b_cnsBdRD8KfupjAapd_2QDptIhXPPTmenWbTrOJg08D/s200/lagoa_redentor.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5079326034334630994" /></a>Arricchiscono e completano il tuo giorno, mentre una macchina porta via soldi, tempo, e energia. Oggi siamo stati da un collega che ha tre labrador retrievers e un pappagallo che potevano essere d' interesse per Maria. Con le biciclette, e Maria sul mio cannone, siamo arrivati in 20 minuti. Siamo tornati lungo la Laguna, col sole e le montagne a picco sulla laguna, vista del Cristo Redentore e tutti i carioca fuori a passeggio (milioni e milioni).<br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiglCEaqjHa1shyphenhyphenYBoBFupsEHipm-POAR2RJr4SObwS4kcbnK2EP384ixaNWhmXJFCNY8GCM_0CwebZl5I7N43obUyBC1qZY9x_vdG4y0EsgZnGNgbRapAHzuOvUexZOAooMr5F-AyxHHU1/s1600-h/sunday_walk.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiglCEaqjHa1shyphenhyphenYBoBFupsEHipm-POAR2RJr4SObwS4kcbnK2EP384ixaNWhmXJFCNY8GCM_0CwebZl5I7N43obUyBC1qZY9x_vdG4y0EsgZnGNgbRapAHzuOvUexZOAooMr5F-AyxHHU1/s320/sunday_walk.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5079328272012592242" /></a>Monica, Maria, Giovannihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10405831812151522517noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2104461867688933676.post-22459589276886517362007-06-10T08:09:00.000-07:002007-06-23T10:41:47.299-07:00Hikes<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuMfLZTk55x1WFlwgFdBx99PyBTNF1dyK14j0VYkM_hjSD8QsUl8liEvFma7JDh4YA_jrLS1qfKgYelLbflEWXyXyEc3A_vj66Oaw2bAS_xM9t6yRRjMjHf5D4tCCkUdJker4w6iI8qLs5/s1600-h/group.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuMfLZTk55x1WFlwgFdBx99PyBTNF1dyK14j0VYkM_hjSD8QsUl8liEvFma7JDh4YA_jrLS1qfKgYelLbflEWXyXyEc3A_vj66Oaw2bAS_xM9t6yRRjMjHf5D4tCCkUdJker4w6iI8qLs5/s320/group.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5074536999770702802" /></a><br /><a href="#ITALIAN2"> <b>(in italiano)</b></a><br /><br />Among the first people we met in Rio, is this group of avid hikers that meets every Sunday morning to go for a walk in some beautiful spot around the city. <br /><br />Rio has this beautiful geology of being partly on a bay and partly on the open ocean. At the same time it is surrounded by mountain ranges which collect most of the humidity and are, therefore, covered by luxurious vegetation. A big part of the mountains immediately around the city make are in the "<a href="http://www.terrabrasil.org.br/pn_tijuca/pnt_1.htm">Parque National de Tijuca</a>", which covers an area of almost 4000 hectars. This makes it is the largest urban forest in the world. The park is covered by some 90 trails and we have already explored two of them.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXg2AW5g0gbkLN1mi-TEhyphenhyphenW06HSqBXPm0J49BxjOgRjD9DVaf2fQ5ff9Ur6clCb-STpZv_wE93GDqYQCUjs-uLQKn2T5lxFB9kc3h526KL_GHTyhAPqfRIvFdT7e8uBAz8YSRQY_gnKACi/s1600-h/cascatihna.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXg2AW5g0gbkLN1mi-TEhyphenhyphenW06HSqBXPm0J49BxjOgRjD9DVaf2fQ5ff9Ur6clCb-STpZv_wE93GDqYQCUjs-uLQKn2T5lxFB9kc3h526KL_GHTyhAPqfRIvFdT7e8uBAz8YSRQY_gnKACi/s200/cascatihna.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5074500419534242722" /></a><br />The first hike was to the "Cascatinha" (Small Fall) in the "Floresta da Tijuca". <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpH-0FWjWgOWMLkWq_Hlulbeg8HRV37qH7xy1iXOzzVEWKLPcDZ5hARnqjy10sihgTFbpyrQWx979PzcXWz9_IPYVQUJZu-gurxdpMQ2yl7h_ULi0BbSkEjXX0uEDASQFfufKo5PD6qxGW/s1600-h/mata_atlantica.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpH-0FWjWgOWMLkWq_Hlulbeg8HRV37qH7xy1iXOzzVEWKLPcDZ5hARnqjy10sihgTFbpyrQWx979PzcXWz9_IPYVQUJZu-gurxdpMQ2yl7h_ULi0BbSkEjXX0uEDASQFfufKo5PD6qxGW/s200/mata_atlantica.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5074500634282607538" /></a><br />This area of the park is famous for having been reforested with the original "Mata Atlantica" (Atlantic Rainforest) after being a sugar-cane and coffee plantation.<br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRO6eJ_TmUXblPkhyphenhyphenl8K-gbORb0jd9lqR3Nfmb4hrf5ffoexxZWNk73OZKmKoh_lIz4b8x9yMX0jk1XWR7JfLwtFyeyXgBEzmbbrMl8KcF2Fs_envxbjMJmpgJEuY8dDTvz4ptdolK5Fxv/s1600-h/pedra_da_gavea.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRO6eJ_TmUXblPkhyphenhyphenl8K-gbORb0jd9lqR3Nfmb4hrf5ffoexxZWNk73OZKmKoh_lIz4b8x9yMX0jk1XWR7JfLwtFyeyXgBEzmbbrMl8KcF2Fs_envxbjMJmpgJEuY8dDTvz4ptdolK5Fxv/s200/pedra_da_gavea.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5074538356980368386" /></a><br />The second hike was to "Pedra Bonita" (Beautiful Stone), less spectacular in terms of vegetation but with a breath-taking view, once on top, of "<a href="http://www.vidhya-virtual.com/Vidhya2/gavea.htm">Pedra da Gavea</a>" and the beaches of San Corrado and Barra di Tijuca.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgShptfldWvaxlNHg-Q7Dt2W7FWBWZ2zb9K5L-yhylVYWppqUKtFvofxE0Sk2xSeSOdDjZtkPi2pGSDjMrqNH03yLB7bM7S6jZ8WnZOhOCWr3XV7uWFc4kFBBs6SKhVv3LyEvtgCpOZ-dB3/s1600-h/barra_tijuca.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgShptfldWvaxlNHg-Q7Dt2W7FWBWZ2zb9K5L-yhylVYWppqUKtFvofxE0Sk2xSeSOdDjZtkPi2pGSDjMrqNH03yLB7bM7S6jZ8WnZOhOCWr3XV7uWFc4kFBBs6SKhVv3LyEvtgCpOZ-dB3/s200/barra_tijuca.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5074538533074027538" /></a> <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-kigvtsw-CK8TZLL1n_zBAtqTTgZHmr_WSlfaYtw3YMQHUQc88Hw2XaQGq0SuhyphenhyphenA6yOZUY4hYlnJlLLMjWGo4XShEGvIEqag7G5e0u8SwihdhLFFa3k0truxlqZCxFOQYGvjZRbOn7-dM/s1600-h/san_corrado.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-kigvtsw-CK8TZLL1n_zBAtqTTgZHmr_WSlfaYtw3YMQHUQc88Hw2XaQGq0SuhyphenhyphenA6yOZUY4hYlnJlLLMjWGo4XShEGvIEqag7G5e0u8SwihdhLFFa3k0truxlqZCxFOQYGvjZRbOn7-dM/s200/san_corrado.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5074538765002261538" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a name="ITALIAN2"></a><br /><br />Tra le prime persone che abbiamo conosciuto a Rio sono stati un gruppo di persone che si trova ogni domenica mattina per camminate in posti diversi vicino alla citta'.<br /><br />Rio ha una geologia unica; la citta' in se' e' in parte su una baia e in parte lungo l'oceano. Ma e' circondata da catene montuose che fermano la maggior parte dell'umidita' che sale dall'oceano e che sono quindi ricoperte da vegetazione lussureggiante. Una grossa fetta di queste montagne immediatamente circostanti la citta' costituisce il "<a href="http://www.terrabrasil.org.br/pn_tijuca/pnt_1.htm">Parque National de Tijuca</a>", che copre circa 4000 ettari. Questo lo rende il parco urbano piu' grande al mondo. Il parco e' punteggiato da circa 90 sentieri e finora ne abbiamo fatti due.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXg2AW5g0gbkLN1mi-TEhyphenhyphenW06HSqBXPm0J49BxjOgRjD9DVaf2fQ5ff9Ur6clCb-STpZv_wE93GDqYQCUjs-uLQKn2T5lxFB9kc3h526KL_GHTyhAPqfRIvFdT7e8uBAz8YSRQY_gnKACi/s1600-h/cascatihna.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXg2AW5g0gbkLN1mi-TEhyphenhyphenW06HSqBXPm0J49BxjOgRjD9DVaf2fQ5ff9Ur6clCb-STpZv_wE93GDqYQCUjs-uLQKn2T5lxFB9kc3h526KL_GHTyhAPqfRIvFdT7e8uBAz8YSRQY_gnKACi/s200/cascatihna.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5074500419534242722" /></a>Il primo e' stato alla "Cascatinha" della "Floresta da Tijuca". Questa area del parco e' famosa per<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpH-0FWjWgOWMLkWq_Hlulbeg8HRV37qH7xy1iXOzzVEWKLPcDZ5hARnqjy10sihgTFbpyrQWx979PzcXWz9_IPYVQUJZu-gurxdpMQ2yl7h_ULi0BbSkEjXX0uEDASQFfufKo5PD6qxGW/s1600-h/mata_atlantica.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpH-0FWjWgOWMLkWq_Hlulbeg8HRV37qH7xy1iXOzzVEWKLPcDZ5hARnqjy10sihgTFbpyrQWx979PzcXWz9_IPYVQUJZu-gurxdpMQ2yl7h_ULi0BbSkEjXX0uEDASQFfufKo5PD6qxGW/s200/mata_atlantica.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5074500634282607538" /></a> essere stato riforestata quasi allo stato originale con "Mata Atlantica" (Foresta Fluvale Atlantica) dopo che era stata trasformata in piantagione di caffe' e canna da zucchero. <br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRO6eJ_TmUXblPkhyphenhyphenl8K-gbORb0jd9lqR3Nfmb4hrf5ffoexxZWNk73OZKmKoh_lIz4b8x9yMX0jk1XWR7JfLwtFyeyXgBEzmbbrMl8KcF2Fs_envxbjMJmpgJEuY8dDTvz4ptdolK5Fxv/s1600-h/pedra_da_gavea.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRO6eJ_TmUXblPkhyphenhyphenl8K-gbORb0jd9lqR3Nfmb4hrf5ffoexxZWNk73OZKmKoh_lIz4b8x9yMX0jk1XWR7JfLwtFyeyXgBEzmbbrMl8KcF2Fs_envxbjMJmpgJEuY8dDTvz4ptdolK5Fxv/s200/pedra_da_gavea.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5074538356980368386" /></a><br />La seconda passeggiata e' stata a "Pedra Bonita", meno spettacolare dal punto di vista della vegetazione ma con vista finale da cartolina della "<a href="http://www.vidhya-virtual.com/Vidhya2/gavea.htm">Pedra da Gavea</a>" <br />e delle spiagge sottostanti di San Corrado e Barra di Tijuca.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgShptfldWvaxlNHg-Q7Dt2W7FWBWZ2zb9K5L-yhylVYWppqUKtFvofxE0Sk2xSeSOdDjZtkPi2pGSDjMrqNH03yLB7bM7S6jZ8WnZOhOCWr3XV7uWFc4kFBBs6SKhVv3LyEvtgCpOZ-dB3/s1600-h/barra_tijuca.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgShptfldWvaxlNHg-Q7Dt2W7FWBWZ2zb9K5L-yhylVYWppqUKtFvofxE0Sk2xSeSOdDjZtkPi2pGSDjMrqNH03yLB7bM7S6jZ8WnZOhOCWr3XV7uWFc4kFBBs6SKhVv3LyEvtgCpOZ-dB3/s200/barra_tijuca.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5074538533074027538" /></a> <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-kigvtsw-CK8TZLL1n_zBAtqTTgZHmr_WSlfaYtw3YMQHUQc88Hw2XaQGq0SuhyphenhyphenA6yOZUY4hYlnJlLLMjWGo4XShEGvIEqag7G5e0u8SwihdhLFFa3k0truxlqZCxFOQYGvjZRbOn7-dM/s1600-h/san_corrado.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-kigvtsw-CK8TZLL1n_zBAtqTTgZHmr_WSlfaYtw3YMQHUQc88Hw2XaQGq0SuhyphenhyphenA6yOZUY4hYlnJlLLMjWGo4XShEGvIEqag7G5e0u8SwihdhLFFa3k0truxlqZCxFOQYGvjZRbOn7-dM/s200/san_corrado.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5074538765002261538" /></a>Monica, Maria, Giovannihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10405831812151522517noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2104461867688933676.post-51157485486132297102007-06-05T17:22:00.000-07:002007-06-07T18:21:42.296-07:00My commute<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge5qqLpCvroTUQPtnn9v3WT4_BSlw6gfwezVnFBkyd6zyrnxnjRrMdrbhlOUqBEwUy-VZYdNC91tpyztg3AENaWzhx-1j7ghkUs7NBxlZhO_nj8XQT-ep8RuV-bxiVzwiuhOc9-wAX5pBC/s1600-h/bike_lane.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge5qqLpCvroTUQPtnn9v3WT4_BSlw6gfwezVnFBkyd6zyrnxnjRrMdrbhlOUqBEwUy-VZYdNC91tpyztg3AENaWzhx-1j7ghkUs7NBxlZhO_nj8XQT-ep8RuV-bxiVzwiuhOc9-wAX5pBC/s320/bike_lane.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5073493099379475298" /></a><br /><br /><a href="#ITALIAN1"> <b>(in italiano)</b></a><br />We continue to have visa problems, and we are not that much in the mood to tell about our life. This weekend we were supposed to go to Sao Paulo, but with the passports in Chicago (it being brazilian burocracy, they had to have all 5 passports) we can not take the plane, we can not rent a car, and we can not take the bus. Our friend in Sao Paulo, to console us, told us the story of the documents she had to produce to take the dog back to America (they go back on June 16). Monica will tell you.<br /><br />Today I will only speak about my commute. About 5.5 miles, about 5 of them on a bike lane completely separated from traffic. From home, it is 3 blocks to the beach, cross the road and I am in the bike lane, and from there the lane passes about 3 blocks from work. Between taking the bike down in the elevator, lights, pedestrian tunnels, sidewalks, wrong way streets (one block), park the bike at CBPF, go upstairs and change clothes, it is about 45 mins.<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcmfGs1e9UeS5OUoaPIxPjRdesS74YtJ2PTq4CL7239VXA2ZOLrM4RLnaC99Jrl-kGMel7NLgYIoxTyd2iYJmizP18rqfPjj7czzQxbgSuBBOfVz1y9QMFrGwO03T_o1jlAvJwqMppcbRh/s1600-h/leblon_beach.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcmfGs1e9UeS5OUoaPIxPjRdesS74YtJ2PTq4CL7239VXA2ZOLrM4RLnaC99Jrl-kGMel7NLgYIoxTyd2iYJmizP18rqfPjj7czzQxbgSuBBOfVz1y9QMFrGwO03T_o1jlAvJwqMppcbRh/s200/leblon_beach.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5073491454407000898" /></a><br />Once I hit the bike lane, I am on the beach in Leblon, about 400 meters from Ipanema. Right away there is Maria's soccer school, in the shadow of Point 11, with their field today almost completely washed away by high tide and big waves (they kicked the ball around an hour regardless).<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyGZGZQElYP2b5W9CoMc_0agIRc33uKQh59uDLkbP_FRjBEbz0CU8MNOb5uyF8UCUpZyc_sAbztcXk1cS-oHAAsCvB9Bs4IlbZjMHnX3Jewu2tnqS71w1guEDjRnkLnxF7KO19la_1ixfV/s1600-h/soccer_school.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyGZGZQElYP2b5W9CoMc_0agIRc33uKQh59uDLkbP_FRjBEbz0CU8MNOb5uyF8UCUpZyc_sAbztcXk1cS-oHAAsCvB9Bs4IlbZjMHnX3Jewu2tnqS71w1guEDjRnkLnxF7KO19la_1ixfV/s200/soccer_school.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5073491720694973266" /></a> Past the canal to the lagoon I am in Ipanema, which I cross until I have to go inland to get around the promontory separating it from Copacabana. After crossing the Copa beach at the point where Copa ends and Leme starts I turn inland, pass a tunnel under one of the Rio mountains, and shortly after I am at work.<br /><br /><br />So I get to see the world in Ipanema and Copa every morning around 8, and every afternoon around 5. Leblon is not nearly as crowded. It is winter here, and we are really in the wrong time zone (it is the same zone as Buenos Aires, far to the west). The sun goes up fairly early but goes down very early (and very rapidly). Plus, under the Leblon high rises (Foresta de Pedra, the stone forrest), and the big trees that line the streets, it gets dark even faster. I don't want to get caught in traffic with the dark, and so I have to get out at 4:30 sharp.<br /><br />More details later, this is all for now.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA8pg9hbHKIbp2hYnZgNZUL7jn0D0Fk555aJ9gMyByhm7k7TXkkX7i31pYt0nKQwIwih7ANeBzaf-USfZT3Yvk12OJChtYbIVDlLzjGrfKWEJX4Wr_wO6Jx5Pwrmd9xXGPi3PL-IFtB7Jr/s1600-h/rochinha.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA8pg9hbHKIbp2hYnZgNZUL7jn0D0Fk555aJ9gMyByhm7k7TXkkX7i31pYt0nKQwIwih7ANeBzaf-USfZT3Yvk12OJChtYbIVDlLzjGrfKWEJX4Wr_wO6Jx5Pwrmd9xXGPi3PL-IFtB7Jr/s200/rochinha.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5073495848158544770" /></a><br /><br /><br /><a name="ITALIAN1"></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge5qqLpCvroTUQPtnn9v3WT4_BSlw6gfwezVnFBkyd6zyrnxnjRrMdrbhlOUqBEwUy-VZYdNC91tpyztg3AENaWzhx-1j7ghkUs7NBxlZhO_nj8XQT-ep8RuV-bxiVzwiuhOc9-wAX5pBC/s1600-h/bike_lane.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge5qqLpCvroTUQPtnn9v3WT4_BSlw6gfwezVnFBkyd6zyrnxnjRrMdrbhlOUqBEwUy-VZYdNC91tpyztg3AENaWzhx-1j7ghkUs7NBxlZhO_nj8XQT-ep8RuV-bxiVzwiuhOc9-wAX5pBC/s320/bike_lane.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5073493099379475298" /></a><br /><br />Continuiamo ad avere problemi di visto, e non siamo tanto disposti a raccontare la nostra vita. Questo weekend dovevamo andare a Sao Paulo, ma con i passaporti a Chicago (essendo burocrazia brasiliana, dovevano per forza avere tutti e 5 i passaporti) non possiamo prendere l' aereo, non possiamo noleggiare una macchina, e non possiamo prendere il bus. La nostra amica di Sao Paulo ci ha raccontato per telefono che per riportare il cane in America ha dovuto presentare non so quanti documenti (lei parte il 16, non riusciremo a vederla). Lascio a Monica i dettagli.<br />Oggi parlero' solo del mio commute - il mio tragitto per andare al lavoro. Circa 9 km, di cui circa 8 su pista ciclabile. Parto da casa, 3 isolati e sono sullo stradone lungo il mare, attraverso e sono in pista, e da li' la pista arriva a circa 3 isolati dal lavoro. Tra portare giu' la bici in ascensore, semafori, tunnels pedonali, marciapiedi, mettere la bici nell' apposito parcheggio, andare di sopra e cambiarmi, sono 45 minuti.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcmfGs1e9UeS5OUoaPIxPjRdesS74YtJ2PTq4CL7239VXA2ZOLrM4RLnaC99Jrl-kGMel7NLgYIoxTyd2iYJmizP18rqfPjj7czzQxbgSuBBOfVz1y9QMFrGwO03T_o1jlAvJwqMppcbRh/s1600-h/leblon_beach.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcmfGs1e9UeS5OUoaPIxPjRdesS74YtJ2PTq4CL7239VXA2ZOLrM4RLnaC99Jrl-kGMel7NLgYIoxTyd2iYJmizP18rqfPjj7czzQxbgSuBBOfVz1y9QMFrGwO03T_o1jlAvJwqMppcbRh/s200/leblon_beach.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5073491454407000898" /></a><br />Una volta sulla pista ciclabile, sono sulla spiaggia a Leblon, 400 metri a ovest di Ipanema. Subito c'e' la scuola di calcio di Maria, attaccato al Punto 11, con il loro campo oggi per lo piu' sparito a causa dell' alta marea e di onde di tre metri (hanno giocato lo stesso per un' ora). <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyGZGZQElYP2b5W9CoMc_0agIRc33uKQh59uDLkbP_FRjBEbz0CU8MNOb5uyF8UCUpZyc_sAbztcXk1cS-oHAAsCvB9Bs4IlbZjMHnX3Jewu2tnqS71w1guEDjRnkLnxF7KO19la_1ixfV/s1600-h/soccer_school.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyGZGZQElYP2b5W9CoMc_0agIRc33uKQh59uDLkbP_FRjBEbz0CU8MNOb5uyF8UCUpZyc_sAbztcXk1cS-oHAAsCvB9Bs4IlbZjMHnX3Jewu2tnqS71w1guEDjRnkLnxF7KO19la_1ixfV/s200/soccer_school.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5073491720694973266" /></a>Dopo il canale sono a Ipanema, che attraverso finche' non devo entrare nella citta' (sempre su pista) per aggirare il promontorio che divide Ipanema da Copacabana. Attraverso Copa e proprio dove comincia Leme giro verso la citta', passo uno dei tunnels sotto una delle montagne di Rio, e di li' a poco sono al lavoro.<br /><br />Cosi', vedo il mondo di Copa e Ipanema ogni mattina verso le 8, e ogni pomeriggio verso le 5. A Leblon c'e' meno gente. E' inverno qui, e in realta' siamo nella zona oraria sbagliata (la stessa di Buenos Aires, che e' molto piu' a ovest). Il sole va su abbastanza presto ma va giu' molto presto (e molto alla svelta). Per di piu' sotto i grandi edifici di Leblon (Foresta de Pedra), e gli alberi che fiancheggiano le vie, diventa buio ancora piu' presto. Non voglio essere per le strade col buio, e cosi' devo uscire alle 4:30 in punto.<br /><br />Aggiungo dettagli piu' tardi, questo e' tutto per ora.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA8pg9hbHKIbp2hYnZgNZUL7jn0D0Fk555aJ9gMyByhm7k7TXkkX7i31pYt0nKQwIwih7ANeBzaf-USfZT3Yvk12OJChtYbIVDlLzjGrfKWEJX4Wr_wO6Jx5Pwrmd9xXGPi3PL-IFtB7Jr/s1600-h/rochinha.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA8pg9hbHKIbp2hYnZgNZUL7jn0D0Fk555aJ9gMyByhm7k7TXkkX7i31pYt0nKQwIwih7ANeBzaf-USfZT3Yvk12OJChtYbIVDlLzjGrfKWEJX4Wr_wO6Jx5Pwrmd9xXGPi3PL-IFtB7Jr/s200/rochinha.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5073495848158544770" /></a>Monica, Maria, Giovannihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10405831812151522517noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2104461867688933676.post-55930844039485705862007-06-02T17:08:00.000-07:002007-06-07T18:25:41.179-07:00Our location<a href="#ITALIAN"> <b>(in italiano)</b></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUZhuWBlz6keAZzwb5roV1YNQmakiICLUKH9aLmywKPpA1qwzHPEjrO6C2bOIKhB9CmMxoCRro58ft4SBnXul907NKYxLTJ2rAqULg2ZHUZZb4qfm9RVLrL4eM2NarLEsHGnp2hNzQu2Gm/s1600-h/appartamento.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUZhuWBlz6keAZzwb5roV1YNQmakiICLUKH9aLmywKPpA1qwzHPEjrO6C2bOIKhB9CmMxoCRro58ft4SBnXul907NKYxLTJ2rAqULg2ZHUZZb4qfm9RVLrL4eM2NarLEsHGnp2hNzQu2Gm/s200/appartamento.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5072987190886712082" /></a><br />30 days have passed since our arrival, and the euphoria of the first days has somewhat faded due to our continuing burocratic problems. It is all to the good, maybe my inital posts would have had a National Geographic tone, which I tend to despise. Brasil is a developing country, with some good and some not so good things. But the place is very welcoming. Today I will only discuss the location of our apartment, which is fantastic.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNsw191IQ7Si_3pAM_y0sCdq7b9EgiBlNW8ixsBd3JvLSd2WvUzeKg93NU4LryC_xflGspZsmcOMySqLwVaLA5Cc8MHlXX_nVvjyUdmYcMwomBnx9oOxsU7e09oO9zV4jzTSzRwFzERdEI/s1600-h/espaco.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNsw191IQ7Si_3pAM_y0sCdq7b9EgiBlNW8ixsBd3JvLSd2WvUzeKg93NU4LryC_xflGspZsmcOMySqLwVaLA5Cc8MHlXX_nVvjyUdmYcMwomBnx9oOxsU7e09oO9zV4jzTSzRwFzERdEI/s200/espaco.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5072992774344196898" /></a><br />We are half a block from the supermarket, one block from the thursday farmer market (phenomenal fish, fruits, and vegetables), one block from an open air market, open 7 days/week, two blocks from Flamengo (athletic club with all sorts of sporting infrastructure, and headquarters of the famed Flamengo Football Club), one block from Leblon's main throughfare (Ataulfo de Paiva), three blocks from Maria's school. In front of the school is the wonderful ice cream parlor Casa Italia, with its incredible fruit sorbets. We are three blocks from the beach, where Maria plays soccer thrice a week and where there is the bike lane that takes me to work. Ipanema is 5 blocks from here. Maria's violin teacher is on Ataulfo, 500 meters from home. We walk everywhere, during the day for errands and at night for ice cream or restaurants or bookstores. A completely different life from suburban Michigan. We have not driven a car since we arrived.<br /><br /><br /><a name="ITALIAN"></a> <br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUZhuWBlz6keAZzwb5roV1YNQmakiICLUKH9aLmywKPpA1qwzHPEjrO6C2bOIKhB9CmMxoCRro58ft4SBnXul907NKYxLTJ2rAqULg2ZHUZZb4qfm9RVLrL4eM2NarLEsHGnp2hNzQu2Gm/s1600-h/appartamento.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUZhuWBlz6keAZzwb5roV1YNQmakiICLUKH9aLmywKPpA1qwzHPEjrO6C2bOIKhB9CmMxoCRro58ft4SBnXul907NKYxLTJ2rAqULg2ZHUZZb4qfm9RVLrL4eM2NarLEsHGnp2hNzQu2Gm/s200/appartamento.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5072987190886712082" /></a><br />Sono passati 30 gg. dal nostro arrivo, e l' euforia dei primi giorni e' un po' diminuita a causa dei continui problemi burocratici. Va bene cosi', forse i miei posts all' inizio avrebbero avuto un sapore National Geographic, che ho sempre disprezzato. Il Brasile e' una societa' in via di sviluppo, ci sono cose buone e cose meno buone. Pero', il posto e' molto accogliente. Oggi scrivero' solo a proposito della posizione del nostro appartamento, che e' fantastica.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNsw191IQ7Si_3pAM_y0sCdq7b9EgiBlNW8ixsBd3JvLSd2WvUzeKg93NU4LryC_xflGspZsmcOMySqLwVaLA5Cc8MHlXX_nVvjyUdmYcMwomBnx9oOxsU7e09oO9zV4jzTSzRwFzERdEI/s1600-h/espaco.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNsw191IQ7Si_3pAM_y0sCdq7b9EgiBlNW8ixsBd3JvLSd2WvUzeKg93NU4LryC_xflGspZsmcOMySqLwVaLA5Cc8MHlXX_nVvjyUdmYcMwomBnx9oOxsU7e09oO9zV4jzTSzRwFzERdEI/s200/espaco.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5072992774344196898" /></a><br />Siamo a mezzo isolato dal supermercato, un isolato dal mercato del giovedi' (frutta, verdura e pesce fenomenali), un isolato da un mercato aperto che c'e' tutti i giorni, due isolati dal Flamengo (club atletico con ogni tipo di infrastruttura sportiva, e sede del Flamengo Football Club), un isolato dalla strada maggiore di Leblon (Ataulfo de Paiva), tre isolati dalla scuola di Maria. Di fronte alla scuola di Maria c'e' la grande gelateria Casa Italia, con i suoi magnifici sorbetti di frutta tropicale. Siamo a tre isolati dalla spiaggia, dove Maria gioca a pallone tre volte la settimana e dove c'e' la pista ciclabile che mi porta al lavoro. Ipanema e' a 5 isolati.<br />La maestra di violino di Maria e' su Ataulfo, a circa 500 metri da casa. Si va a piedi dappertutto, di giorno per faccende e di sera per gelato o ristoranti o librerie. Tutta un' altra vita dal Michigan suburbano. Non abbiamo guidato una macchina da quando siamo arrivati.Monica, Maria, Giovannihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10405831812151522517noreply@blogger.com0